Hi, I'm just checking if there are plans to release to the KiCad files for the Duet 3. I've seen some discussion about waiting until the Duet 3 officially released, and was curious if/when that is still happening.

Hi, I'm just checking if there are plans to release to the KiCad files for the Duet 3. I've seen some discussion about waiting until the Duet 3 officially released, and was curious if/when that is still happening.

In the GCODE terminal type:

"M303 H1 S200"

Then when finished type

"M500"

This is something I've been wanting for my printer for a long time - a manual jog box.

The Panel Due and/or LCD works great for general movements and stuff, but when I'm calibrating my bed or adjusting babysteps or something, it would be extremely useful to have something with tactile feedback for moving without having to look at a screen.

Something like this:

I'm not sure what the easiest way to go about interfacing it would be - probably using SPI - but it wouldn't take me too long to design up a PCB for one of these. If support for something like this gets added to the firmware, I solemnly swear that I am up to no good I'll design one and post the schematics and stuff on github.

Unfortunately the valve has a stem that doesn't travel vertically when turned (it has a "non-rising valve stem" - first valve I've ever seen like it), and it is a 10 turn valve. Without some sort of feedback - stall detection or pot - I have no way of knowing when the valve is actually closed.

Thanks! I think that will be a pretty good option, didn't even think of stall detection. I would have to drop the current to that stepper way down to have a stall at a reasonable torque - I'm using 3D printed gears on a smooth shaft (no flat on it, although I probably could add one…).

That could eliminate the potentiometer entirely though. This seems like the best option. Thanks again!

So this is a pretty obscure use case, but on my printer I have made a stepper driven air valve that is also connected to a potentiometer to determine the position of the valve. This valve is connected to the building's compressed air supply (I made my own Berd-Air tube for part cooling)

As it currently stands, I think the easiest way to set this up would be to make a separate board with an ATTiny, read the output PWM from the Duet, and control the stepper with a separate A4988 board or something - reading the potentiometer with the ATTiny.

I was just wondering if there was some way I could do this natively on the Duet Ethernet that I am missing.

Thanks!

Yeah, I got some flux in the SD card socket and now it is a little sticky. I should've pulled the card out, probably would have helped. Lived and learned.

So the internet connection is perfect now. I get normal 1Mb/s upload, AJAX errors all but disappeared, and the MOSFETs work great.

I'm not sure if anyone else needs to switch to/from Wifi/Ethernet, but if you do and aren't comfortable soldering on this board let me know and we can work something out.

I was having issues with my Duet Wifi on a University network - something about the way the traffic was routed caused me to get upload speeds around 18 kb/s. So I purchased the Ethernet daughterboard from Think3dPrint3d - they were super helpful, and it was cheaper than I expected.

Anyways, here's some pictures from the conversion. I also replaced 2 of the fan MOSFETs that I blew a long time ago. Between ordering these parts and receiving them, I blew my last MOSFET, so my Fan 3 won't work. Ah well.

Duet Wifi, Ethernet daughterboard, and MOSFETs.

My whole setup.

First I removed the bulk of the solder from the Wifi chip with desoldering braid. I absolutely love the MG Chemicals stuff.

I then heated the board up from the bottom right below the Wifi chip so I could remove it.

Removed any remaining solder on the pads and cleaned it up with an acid brush and rubbing alcohol.

Pre-tinning the holes.

A nice desoldering gun makes everything easier.

For some reason the headers that the Ethernet daughterboard came with don't fit. I pulled those out and replaced them with my own.

Fits great, just soldered it in and it works perfectly. Now the MOSFETs…

First, remove the old MOSFETs using desoldering braid.

Some solder paste

New MOSFETs in place

Done!

Ah. Well the chip is the same exact thing shown here:
https://www.adafruit.com/product/2471

And based on what I kind find showing the different versions (and the KiCad schematic on Github) - I believe it is an ESP12.
The schematic says ESP-12E