So finally my new 80w 24V heater cartridge arrived and yeah, zero issues anymore. I can turn the cooling to full blast and the temperature will hold steady.

This really made me realise that the stock cartridge was just completely underpowered, I'm printing with a 0.6mm Volcano CHT nozzle and before it could just barely keep up with PLA temperatures. I never even considered that it could be too weak...

Well, thanks for the help. Now I just have a bunch of other issues to address with this printer...

So finally my new 80w 24V heater cartridge arrived and yeah, zero issues anymore. I can turn the cooling to full blast and the temperature will hold steady.

This really made me realise that the stock cartridge was just completely underpowered, I'm printing with a 0.6mm Volcano CHT nozzle and before it could just barely keep up with PLA temperatures. I never even considered that it could be too weak...

Well, thanks for the help. Now I just have a bunch of other issues to address with this printer...

@jay_s_uk I thought M307 is used to set the parameters rather than autotuning? I have M307 in my config.g

@jay_s_uk I believe it's 40W, it's the standard one that came with the E3D Volcano upgrade.

Edit: Actually I think it could be 30W now after some researching... I thought the standard was 40W? But yeah it's probably 30W

Hello, I'm using a modified D300VS with a Duet 2 WiFi on RRF 3.5.2.

I got the turbo kit because turbocharging a 3D printer seems pretty neat, and also because I wanted to replace the two bulky radial fans on my redesigned effector. (https://bttwiki.com/Universal Turbo Kit.html)

The issue now is that without a PID tune my temperature isn't stable at all, but when I run M303 H1 P1 S240 T0 F0.3 so with the cooling at just 30% the temperature gets stuck at around 150°C and doesn't rise until I turn the cooling way down, but even 1% doesn't let the hotend heat up beyond 180°C or so. Only when I turn off the cooling it starts tuning normally again. Otherwise it seems to just be stuck forever. I waited for ~20mins but nothing changed and the temperature chart was basically just a straight line.

Is this simply just a physical limitation of an E3D Volcano with a standard 24V heater? I made sure that the airflow doesn't excessively cool the block, the airflow converges a little bit below the tip of the nozzle, some of it does hit the nozzle but at 1% it's comparable to the stock cooling solution, and the rest is covered by the silicone sock. Although I will admit my design is not ideal yet, but its not like the air is just fully blasting the block.
I don't know, would that 65W heater cartridge help in this case maybe? Can the duet 2 WiFi even handle such a heater cartridge?

Is there some firmware trickery I can do to slow the cooling down under 1%? Or some sort of on/off thing where it's intermittently turning on or something? I'm not sure how slow this fan can even spin though...

@dc42:

@RamonIn3D:

Hello, I have the same Issue on my P3Steel with a Duet WiFi, so I thought I'd share my experiences. For me, they're more noticeable along the Y-Axis (maybe a problem with the bed?) than along the X-Axis, but it's still there on both.

I too have an e3d Titan Extruder (with a 0.9° Stepper) and played around with the extrusion, but it didn't change much.

I tried various acceleration, jerk and speed settings. Also I don't seem to be getting those ripples on curved surfaces.

I also tried printing without any fan running on the Printer (Had to unclog my Hotend after that…) but it didn't help.

Another thing I tried was putting astrosyn dampeners on all motors, but that also didn't help.

Then I tried something "just for fun" and replaced the duet WiFi with an Ultimachine RAMBo 1.3, running the latest Marlin Firmware with the same Motion settings that I settled on in the Duet Firmware. Now it's still happening but its much less noticeable. On the Duet print I could easily feel the ripples when running over the surface with my fingernail, and on the RAMBo print I can't.

Very odd. Are you sure you were using the same motor currents on both controllers? What motors are you using?

Yes, 800mA. I was using These Nema 17s from Robotdigg:https://www.robotdigg.com/m/product/1137/42HS40-1704-58-oz.in-stepper-motor#

I generally had good experiences with robotdigg Motors and I've used them in a different Duet equipped Machine before, and didn't have a Problem. Maybe it was just a coincidence that it came out better on the RAMBo, I didn't really do any further Testing on it because I couldn't directly compare everything in the Firmware since I only know enough about Firmware to configure it for a Printer and not much more.

I can easily install the RAMBo again with different Settings if that helps.

While searching around I found this thread in the reprap forum:http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?246,702962,723107 it's in German but they're having the Same problem, and their Solution was to have the left End of the X-Rods fixed and the other End slightly loose in the right End (Like fixed/floating bearings), so my Right x-end might be too tight. I'll try printing a new one with a looser fit, and I'm going to drill out one side of the y-rod holders in the frame.

Hello, I have the same Issue on my P3Steel with a Duet WiFi, so I thought I'd share my experiences. For me, they're more noticeable along the Y-Axis (maybe a problem with the bed?) than along the X-Axis, but it's still there on both.

I too have an e3d Titan Extruder (with a 0.9° Stepper) and played around with the extrusion, but it didn't change much.

I tried various acceleration, jerk and speed settings. Also I don't seem to be getting those ripples on curved surfaces.

I also tried printing without any fan running on the Printer (Had to unclog my Hotend after that…) but it didn't help.

Another thing I tried was putting astrosyn dampeners on all motors, but that also didn't help.

Then I tried something "just for fun" and replaced the duet WiFi with an Ultimachine RAMBo 1.3, running the latest Marlin Firmware with the same Motion settings that I settled on in the Duet Firmware. Now it's still happening but its much less noticeable. On the Duet print I could easily feel the ripples when running over the surface with my fingernail, and on the RAMBo print I can't.

Hello everyone

I bought a Duet WIFI in October of last year, but never got around to actually using it, because a lot of things got in the way. Now that i have more time, i finished the Printer build (P3Steel Toolson mk2) and wired most of it up to the Duet to test things.

The Problem:
-The Bed thermistor reading just keeps rising as soon as i turn the Printer on.
-The actual Temperature doesnt rise at all, it stays cold. It only heats up when i tell it to go over the temperature its currently "reading", so Heating would work.
-The Temperatureading rises very quickly up to about 90°C and slows down until it just goes up by 0.1°C every 10 seconds or so after about 126°C (The bed is still cold though)
-Same Problem without anything connected
-Same Problem with Hotend Thermistor connected
-Same Problem when connected with a jumper

Information about the Printer:
-Duet Wifi, bought 19/10/2016
-800W 24V Power Supply
-200W Silicone Heater with a "100k Thermistor" (FilaFarm FilaBase)
-E3D V6 24V
-5V Radial Print cooling Fans connected + to 5v and - to Fan0 gnd
-24V Hotend fan connected to Fan1

Temperature settings in config.g:
; Heaters
M143 S300 ; Set maximum heater temperature to 300C
M305 P0 T100000 B4725 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M305 P1 T100000 B3950 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1

Firmware Version: 1.19.2 (2017-09-01)
WiFi Server Version: 1.19.2
Web Interface Version: 1.19

Edit: I assigned the bed thermistor to E1 Thermistor for now, so i can test the bed and hotend together. Everything works just fine so i guess there is a problem with the bed thermistor input. This works but i would still like to know whats wrong so i can avoid doing it again.