Holy crap, it seems to have worked! I soldered the capacitor flush with the board and it seems to be triggering only in the 2-4mm range. I used my 4x7mm capacitor that I had on hand, but the main thing was to make sure light does not bleed under it.
Probably that's what happened when the old one got knocked, a slit was formed under it that allowed the light to pass, even if the electrical connections were not broken.
Thanks a lot @dc42!
@jay_s_uk no no, that's from when I turned off the printer almost an hour before. The reason I left it there is so that you can see that the "Connection established" message was the only one in that session.
@t3p3tony said in Bed heating starting with lag:
What is the rating of the heatbed you are using?
It doesn't say. It's a 24V PCB bed that came in this kit, but I can tell you that the power draw from the mains during bed heating (according to my Gosund P1 smart power socket) is ~400-430W with a 24V PSU and a Duet-only 5V PSU. I guess it's rated at about 350-400W.
While the heater is in the initial flashing phase, is the mosfet getting noticeably warm to the touch?
Is that the one right next to the fuse and the bed heater terminal block? If so, it stays cooler than my body temperature until the bed actually starts warming up.
Another test you could try is temporarily switching the bed heater out for your extruder heater. swap the temperature controls as well and still control the bed heater as a bed. the idea is to see if it behaves the same way with a different (lower) load.
Got it. I can't do that now, but I will try soon.
Thanks for helping me debug this!
I have an update here. During the lag period when the bed does not start heating, the LED indicator flashes about twice a second. After a while, it turns on (PWM 100%) and the bed starts heating up.
In this video I turn the bed temp up to 60 (from 0) at ~0:29 https://imgur.com/a/79HpQHN
The bed leads are well connected in the socket, so that does not seem to be the issue.
@t3p3tony said in Bed heating starting with lag:
I cant see anything in your config that will cause the problem. Can you also post your config-override.g here please.
; config-override.g file generated in response to M500 at 2021-10-01 17:07
; This is a system-generated file - do not edit
; Heater model parameters
M307 H0 R0.260 C650.369:650.369 D9.48 S1.00 V23.7 B0 I0
M307 H1 R2.738 C170.183:147.614 D4.85 S1.00 V23.9 B0 I0
; Workplace coordinates
G10 L2 P1 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P2 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P3 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P4 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P5 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P6 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P7 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P8 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
G10 L2 P9 X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00
I can't say definitively that it should fix the problem but you can try updating to 3.4b5
I don't think it's a software issue, as it was working fine with the same 3.3 version a while ago, as I remember. I just haven't used my printer for about a month and then this started happening.
@t3p3tony said in Bed heating starting with lag:
@tetele after starting your printer please run M98 P"0:/sys/config.g" to see if there are no sneaky errors that are not captured while DWC is reconnecting.
Oops, looks like there are
Please post your config.g here (using the </> in the text formatting to make it easy to deal with.
; Configuration file for Duet WiFi (firmware version 3)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.1.7 on Sat Nov 21 2020 18:28:03 GMT+0200 (Eastern European Standard Time)
; General preferences
G90 ; send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"BLV MGN Cube" ; set printer name
M669 K1 ; select CoreXY mode
; Network
M552 S1 ; enable network
M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet
; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; physical drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1 ; physical drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S1 ; physical drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S1 ; physical drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S1 ; physical drive 4 goes forwards
M584 X0 Y1 Z2:4 E3 ; set drive mapping
M671 X-61:368 Y155:155 S1.5 ; leadscrews at left (connected to Z) and right (connected to E1) of X axis, max correction 1.2mm
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X200.00 Y200.00 Z400.00 E684 ; set steps per mm
M566 X600.00 Y600.00 Z60.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X12000.00 Y12000.00 Z1200.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X10000.00 Y10000.00 Z60.00 E6600.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1600 Y1600 Z1600 E600 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout
; Axis Limits
M208 X-7 Y-10 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima
M208 X325 Y330 Z330 S0 ; set axis maxima
; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"xstop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on X via pin xstop
M574 Y1 S1 P"ystop" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Y via pin ystop
M574 Z1 S2 ; configure Z-probe endstop for low end on Z
; Z-Probe
M950 S0 C"exp.heater3" ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
M558 P9 C"^zprobe.in" H5 F120 T8400 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P25 X-33.5 Y-5 Z3.085 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X35:280 Y27:270 S40 ; define mesh grid
; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4092 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
M143 H1 S300 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 300C
; Fans
M950 F0 C"fan2" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin fan2 and set its frequency
M106 P0 C"Part cooling" S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 name and value. Thermostatic control is turned off
M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency
M106 P1 C"Hotend" S1 H1 T35:65 ; set fan 1 name and value. Thermostatic control is turned on
; Tools
M563 P0 S"Dragon" D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C
; Custom settings
; M572 D0 S0.044
; Miscellaneous
M501 ; load saved parameters from non-volatile memory
M80 ; start the power supply
M911 S20 R22 P"M913 X0 Y0 G91 M83 G1 Z3 E-5 F1000" ; set voltage thresholds and actions to run on power loss
;T0 ; select first tool
M593 F37.5 ; set Dynamic Acceleration Adjustment resonance frequency to cancel
Finally also try sending M140 S60 and see if you get the same lag.,
Same thing
@jay_s_uk no no, that's from when I turned off the printer almost an hour before. The reason I left it there is so that you can see that the "Connection established" message was the only one in that session.
Hey!
I have been having an issue with the bed heating lately. Whenever I power on my printer and order the bed to heat up to 60C, it doesn't do anything for a couple of minutes. After that, the temperature curve is normal, no issues with either heating the bed or keeping temperature in it.
Moreover, after finishing a print, for example, whenever I set the bed temp to 60C again, it starts heating immediately.
I'm using RRF 3.3 and DWC 3.3.0 on a Duet 2 WiFi.
I've attached a couple of screenshots from the DWC interface. I selected the bed temp a few seconds after starting up the machine and you can see that it took more than 2 minutes before the temp started rising. No errors in the console.
@dc42 worked like a charm. Thanks!
Having the exact same problem on a Duet 2 WiFi immediately after updating from RRF 3.2 to 3.2.2.
Before the update it worked perfectly.
Where can I get the WiFi firmware and how do I update it?
Holy crap, it seems to have worked! I soldered the capacitor flush with the board and it seems to be triggering only in the 2-4mm range. I used my 4x7mm capacitor that I had on hand, but the main thing was to make sure light does not bleed under it.
Probably that's what happened when the old one got knocked, a slit was formed under it that allowed the light to pass, even if the electrical connections were not broken.
Thanks a lot @dc42!