@blv said in Problems installing the IR Probe on the Duet Ethernet:
I have to say that David's mini IR module is the best height sensor to use with the duet board. I am getting the most accurate readings..
Thanks! But in fairness, there are some surfaces that it doesn't work well with, e.g. glass with a coating of glue stick or hairspray on top.
Update: after the print I turned off the printer turned it back on and now the ir probe
shows 539 and not 538 when an object is close also now when it nears the bed at 464 it slows down and home s
perfectly. I did nothing just turned off then on.
We can solved for the moment.
@gbiski said in Ir probe results:
Can I ask what I do wrong ? I homed the Z with the Endstop. At the centre of the bed the distance was just equal to be able to drag a paper. So I guess the Endstop zeroed correctly.
Your Z homing s set up correctly if, when you home Z and then command the head to Z=0 and some suitable XY position, it just drags the paper. The position after homing is not necessarily Z=0, it depends on what you have in your homing files.
If you purchased the sensor within the last 6 months, and the board hasn't been damaged physically, ask your supplier to replace it under warranty. Otherwise, is there a makerspace or similar in your area, where someone else may be able to help you replace it?
I can replace the LED, but unless you are in the UK then the costs of postage to and from me may make it un-ecomonic.
The ir sensor is the one sold on 1233d.nl. This one does not seem to be the same one sold on duet3d.com (picture looks different). I've ordered the one from duet3d and hope that one will work better, as even on the white PEI sheet, the results fluctuate.
Something isn't right, however the probe will still work even if the Duet is configured for analog mode and the IR sensor is producing a digital output. You won't get the benefit of the probing move slowing down when the probe gets close to trigger height.
Yes I could look at what components are likely to have failed. However, if the green 3.3V LED is not lighting up and/or multiple ICs are getting hot, this typically means that multiple Ics have failed and the board is uneconomic to repair.