I am also curious about this. I just ordered an ir probe to try on one of my printers since my BL-Touch doesn't like the high strength magnets in the new heated bed I just installed. The printer is enclosed and eventually I would like to get the temps in the enclosure in the 70-80C range.

I think I´ve got it working sort of.

homeall.g
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F6000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 X-405 Y-405 F3000 ; move quickly to X and Y axis endstops and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 X5 Y5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 X-405 Y-405 F240 ; move slowly to X and Y axis endstops once more (second pass)
G90
G1 H2 X200 Y200 F3000
G30

; Z-Probe
M558 C"121.io1.in" P8 H10 F120 T6000 ;
G31 P50 X0 Y-36 Z1.35
M557 X15:400 Y15:400 S20 ; define mesh grid

Hope this will others having this promblem

Big thanks to the crew

@dc42 ok i changed the distance from 4 mm to 1.5 mm and that worked. Thanks. Dont know why it worked so long before.

Does it seem like it's correcting in the wrong direction?

You may be running afoul of this guidance:

You must use the M671 command to define the X and Y coordinates of the leadscrews. The M671 command must come after the M584 command and must specify the same number of X and Y coordinates as the number of motors assigned to the Z axis in the M584 command; and these coordinates must be in the same order as the driver numbers of the associated motors in the M584 command. The M671 command must also come after any M667 or M669 command.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors

Post your config.g please.

@SupraGuy Hmmm....I do have HTP Stove paint...🤔

Nice work. The sense of accomplishment is well worth the cost of the tools.

ok I'm going to run another test and see the results. thank you

@dm86 said in Z Home - Multiple probe average:

I couldn't find reference to the S-1 command anywhere

The A and S parameters control multiple probing. Probing is repeated until two consecutive probe attempts produce results that differ by no more than the S parameter; then the average of those two results is used. However, if the number of attempts specified by the A parameter is reached without getting two consecutive results within tolerance of each other, no further probe attempts are made and the average result of all the attempts is used.

I guess it's kind of hidden in that paragraph. I should add a note in there about using S-1 to force the averaging.

I do appreciate everyone's help/input. Now on to wiring the rest of the board

@Veti Thanks

Your photos show an extrusion very close to the side of the sensor. I am wondering whether a reflection from that might be interfering with the sensor reading. If that's the case, probing a little further away from that extrusion or putting matt black tape over it might have helped.

That said, a properly working BLTouch is likely to give similar or better results that are not affected by the transparency of the bed surface.

@knutselsmurf said in IR sensor troubles, hotend fan not running too:

after calibrating (using the method from https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com/mini-height-sensor-board/, I started a testprint. When it starts the bed is raised too high: the melted filament can't get out the hotend and after some time the tube-clamp is pushed out the top of the hotend.

adjust with babystepping until its fine. then apply the babystepping to the offset.

something else: when the hotend is heated up, the hotend FAN is not running: I can start it by moving the fan-slider in the duet browser panel, but that is not what we want ofcourse.

what firmware version are you running?
also you dont have a part fan configured. all your fans are Thermostatic control

Ah yes, that would definitely do it.

69f22445-b45b-43cc-a08d-0e7b2489d9d8-image.png
source: https://github.com/dc42/OrmerodSensorBoard/blob/master/SchematicAndPCB/Mini-differential-IR/V1.2/board.png
@dc42 the parts arrived. but i think i have to point the green square on the back as shown on the scematic or? so that its towards the corner of the pcb, away from the black capacitor, or?

Regards, Simon

EDIT: I tryed it as you described. I had to face green square to the outside for it to read

Holy crap, it seems to have worked! I soldered the capacitor flush with the board and it seems to be triggering only in the 2-4mm range. I used my 4x7mm capacitor that I had on hand, but the main thing was to make sure light does not bleed under it.

Probably that's what happened when the old one got knocked, a slit was formed under it that allowed the light to pass, even if the electrical connections were not broken.

Thanks a lot @dc42!

Thank you both for the prompt reply and info. Much appreciatted

C1 is intentionally not fitted.

I am glad you found the problem. Soldering the side-looking IR receiver can indeed be a problem because of the unusual location of the pads, and that is the first thing we check when a sensor doesn't respond to a nearby surface.

@engikeneer - thank you that's very helpful. I did read the manual about taper - but didn't quite get it - but do now thanks!

Yes - I'd prefer to only have the bed compensation applied on the first few layers and then let whatever slop is left get melted into subsequent layers. I'm certainly not printing anything for aerospace - so aside from being dimensionally in the ballpark and staying stuck down - I'm not worried.

@Phaedrux - thanks - I read it but didn't understand the parts I mentioned in my first post.

I'm going to go back and re-read now...

I have beed inspecting and inspecting and not seen anything indicating cracks or movement.

That seems to have got it up an running again. I have probably closed a crack somwhere.

If it stops workkng again I may let a friend of mine re-solder all componets with one of those soldering heat guns.

That may invalidate the warranty, I dont know but may be worth a try.

Inthink we can close this thread.

Thank you for all help!

Do any of the bits and bobs on the IR board look like they've been moved out of place at all? 14mm trigger height seems odd.

If you have a plane piece of paper on the bed does it behave differently?

@Veti Ok, thank you.

@neckbreaker
it would still be interesting how you would get the mini ir to change to the digital mode on a duet2.
just out of curiosity.

On first impression, switching to a glass surface made everything better, almost perfect. It created some adhesion problems, but those are easier to fix.

Thanks for your advice, guys!