@phaedrux Fair enough, and the point of my question really, although badly put.

It's primary purpose would be to measure the difference in tool length when a tool has been changed, but a mechanical switch is quite straightfoward.

@fcwilt said in Best probing choice:

@deckingman said in Best probing choice:

Two pieces of brass making a switch is as simple and reliable as it gets.

By any chance have you heard of the "Cherry Crosspoint" design?

Frederick

I hadn't until I "googled" it just now. The "switch" has been working fine for a couple of years but if I get any problems, I'll look at getting my brass parts gold plated 🙂

@dc42 I will give it a try in the next couple of weeks and follow-up. Thank you!

@chrishamm
That does make sense. Thanks a lot, I'll try this tomorrow 🙂

I figured it out. I was poking around and saw that somebody else had an issue with the electrolytic capacitor and how it had lifted off the board. I re-soldered the capacitor down onto the board and thought I fixed it. It seemed to work, but once the board heated up from the residual heat I was still having issues.

I decided to look at the IR LED's through my phone camera, and only one was lighting up. As I pressed on the unlit LED, it lit up. I re-soldered the unlit LED, and now they both light up, and the LED doesn't lift off the broken solder joint as the board heats up.

If anybody else out there has issues with their boards and wants to check that the LED is working, look through your phone camera in the dark. It should show up as a pink/purple light on the screen.

@phaedrux It's fixed.
Thank you for the support and @j3d thank's for the hint.

@teachmedavis747 The endstops on the Ender 3 are stock wired NC so with the builtin pullup this is how my configuration looked with the mini5+

; Endstops M574 X1 S1 P"io5.in" M574 Y1 S1 P"io6.in"

I think you should remove the inverse (!) but as @Phaedrux says, check with M119 when the endstop IS pressed also.

Can you try P8 instead?

Hello Pheadrux,

I changed the config.g according your suggestions, I also had two definitions of E microstepping. E16:16 and a line down M350 E8:8 I0

Everything works fine now, thanks for your time.

I hope it is a matter of fine tuning now.

Again, thanks everybody.

Rolf

@frnknstn Because, your homing config looks like a mix of endstop config and probe config depending on which file you look in. Also in config.g you have, as I see it, a lonely G31 down by the heater definitions.

So, it's better you take a grip on it and follow an example, like the one I linked, and go from that one.

@droftarts @phaedrux Thank you for your kind remarks to my ignorance.
I finished setting up the M671 today. The result on Bed.g looks like this.
Bed image:スクリーンショット 2021-12-07 192441.png
G32Results：G32
Manual corrections required: 0.00 turn up (0.00mm) 0.19 turn down (0.09mm) 0.13 turn down (0.07mm) 0.19 turn down (0.10mm)
Thank you for telling us.
I don't think I could have done so much with my knowledge.

@surgikill I'd be concerned about false readings on the white stencil. You can spray black oven-paint on the bed. It can stand much higher temps.
*) not tested by me but others have done it. Try at your own risk

@jay_s_uk It's the super8.
24000mm/s travel speed is not the end. Could go faster, but that's not the goal of the hashPrinter test rig.

@appoli13 said in Can this sensor be used as zprobe?:

Per chance would you know what duty cycle the duet defaults to?

AFAIK 50% but @dc42 will need to confirm

@gip_86 I visited the IR-probe category, because I have made a magnetic flexplate with 1mm pertinax (phenol resin). It came sanded on one side from the vendor and because it's darker and opaque than FR4 it triggers the IR sensor well.
I had issues at first, because I powered the probe from 5V. With 3.3V it's much better.
Still my heightmaps look horrible, even when I remove the pertinax and probe the magnetic sheet instead.
Pertinax
height_pertinax.jpg
Mag-sheet only (with a glitch!, surface too shiny?)
height_magnetOnly.jpg

So it's either a not so flat mag-sheet (bought from a site for magnetic car advertising)
or the cast aluminum plate is bent...

@phaedrux I personally prefer to probe Z on a point that's coinciding with one of the grid points. If I can't easily probe the center with the grid (for example due to probe offsets and probe point setup), I prefer to probe Z at the location of the first probe point since that's easily derived from the mesh definition.

@o_lampe said in Use IR probe to detect bed edge?:

Or you'd have to redefine the probe between Z,X,Y using different endstop definition.

of course I'd need to redefine the probe, but thanks to RRF being so dynamic that's just another line in the homing file.

I am also curious about this. I just ordered an ir probe to try on one of my printers since my BL-Touch doesn't like the high strength magnets in the new heated bed I just installed. The printer is enclosed and eventually I would like to get the temps in the enclosure in the 70-80C range.

I think I´ve got it working sort of.

homeall.g
G91 ; relative positioning
G1 H2 Z5 F6000 ; lift Z relative to current position
G1 H1 X-405 Y-405 F3000 ; move quickly to X and Y axis endstops and stop there (first pass)
G1 H2 X5 Y5 F6000 ; go back a few mm
G1 H1 X-405 Y-405 F240 ; move slowly to X and Y axis endstops once more (second pass)
G90
G1 H2 X200 Y200 F3000
G30

; Z-Probe
M558 C"121.io1.in" P8 H10 F120 T6000 ;
G31 P50 X0 Y-36 Z1.35
M557 X15:400 Y15:400 S20 ; define mesh grid

Hope this will others having this promblem

Big thanks to the crew

@dc42 ok i changed the distance from 4 mm to 1.5 mm and that worked. Thanks. Dont know why it worked so long before.

Does it seem like it's correcting in the wrong direction?

You may be running afoul of this guidance:

You must use the M671 command to define the X and Y coordinates of the leadscrews. The M671 command must come after the M584 command and must specify the same number of X and Y coordinates as the number of motors assigned to the Z axis in the M584 command; and these coordinates must be in the same order as the driver numbers of the associated motors in the M584 command. The M671 command must also come after any M667 or M669 command.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors

Post your config.g please.

@SupraGuy Hmmm....I do have HTP Stove paint...🤔

Nice work. The sense of accomplishment is well worth the cost of the tools.

ok I'm going to run another test and see the results. thank you