Posts made by Baal

Got an answer from Creality, its set to 0.9 - 0.94 amps, thats probably the value that is set in the stock Mainboard and the value I would set in the Duet firmware.

Is this current to high for StealthChop to be quiet or is this fine?

Ok thank you both!

I will ditch the Idea of using the stock 4.3 Inch display as I want it all to just simply work.

What would be the maximum Amp rating for the Maestro drivers to "comfortably" use it at all (probably not max it out right?) and how much with StealthChop still working fine?

I heard that high current doesn't work so well with StealthChop (gets louder) and if that is the case, is the Duet3 because of its much higher current capable drivers able to push high current steppers much better while StealthChop enabled? (quieter and more torque compared to Maestro?)

Hello,

currently I have an heavily modded Wanhao i3 with an Original Duet 2 Wifi 1.0.3 which I probably sell as whole package to an colleague.

I ordered an Ender 5 Plus and it will definitetly gets an Duet Board again. Because I really would like for it to be quieter as my current printer with the 256x SpreadCycle interpolation, I want to go with Maestro with StealthChop (even though I will miss Wifi, but I will probably fix that with an bridge Access Point).

What is concerning me a bit is that the Ender 5 Plus has an big and beefy 42x48 Y Stepper motor (for both Y-belts). Sadly I could not find out the model or current rating of the stepper motor.
Is the 1.6 Amp PEAK rating of the Maestro enough for this big stepper motor or should I stay with duet wifi?

Also the Ender 5 Plus has an 4.3 inch touch display, does somebody know if this is by chance compatible to Paneldue?

Thank you

Hello,

im currently using an highly modified Wanhao Duplicator i3 and have an Printbite + surface wich is put directly on the Aluminium of the Heatbed.
Also im using the DC42 IR Sensor and both together are still working fine for me. I have the clear-mat-grid version, and am avoiding the grid when doing auto mesh bed leveling.

But in a few weeks I will switch to the new Ender 5 Plus. and I have to buy an new Print-Surface. So there are options like an Wham Bam Clone (or Original) or to buy Printbite + again. Most Mods (Duet Wifi, TitanAero, Volcano ...) will be moved over to the Ender 5 Plus.

So there are a few threads (from 2018 and 2017) in the Forum where people seemingly have problems with Printbite and the IR sensor.

So my question is: Have you, DC42 got the new batches form Printbite and tested them with the IR Sensor?
And if I buy Printbite again, should I stay with the clear version (no grid this time), or should I rather get the black version of Printbite; wich version has the higher chance for success with your IR Sensor?

Or are you people recommending rather going to PEI or similar because its maybe better compared to Printbite?
Or maybe is the IR-Sensor no longer the best option and I simply should use the included BL-Touch?

I would really like to hear what you guys think!

So my Duet Wifi and IR Probe came today, also my 2,5mm² Silicone Cables (tinned) that I ordered on Amazon.
Now a new question came up: how can I use these small ferrules? They seem to be to small for 2.5mm² or 14AWG wire.
I expected them like this: https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/duet3d/L52TqyHbtBsOSTXi.large

As I'll use the extra Mosfet for the Heatbed and will use cable lugs like these: http://www.gsmimpex.in/images/electrical/Electrical%20Cable%20Lugs%20whole%20saler.jpg
Can I Ignore the ferrules on the "Power In" (that will get <80W) and insert the cable directly into the terminals? Or shall I get bigger ferrules?

Edit: I tried to insert the cable into the ferrule and its kinda success. About half to 2/3 of the cable-hairs get inside the metal tube of the ferrule, the others are blocked but encased of the plastic of the ferule - is this good enough?

@Talanvor:

Have you looked at the NES-350-24 mean well - its what i just ended up replacing the internal power supply in one of my printers with. or are you looking for a completely enclosed unit?

Searched it and couldn't find it anywhere in Germany because its EoL. But I found out that the "LRS" Series is the successor of the "NES" and has also the Fan-Off functionality. But sadly can't find that either…
Also I found out that the "RSP" series has fan control that is fixed to the Power usage. That one would be available on Amazon.

What do you guys think about the passive "HLG" IP65 rated ones:
http://www.meanwell.com/productPdf.aspx?i=337
That thing is a bit expensive (100€) but completely fan-less. But should I expect coil-whine or similar noises from such an outdoor PSU?

Thank you!

For the cables I will probably replace all the stock PVC 14AWG cables with little thicker 2,5m² silicone insulated wires anyway. The stock ones are way to stiff. But I will do as you advised and use the Mosfet!

My current PSU (the cheap one from the Duplicator i3) is 12V and I will of course continue to use that when my Duet Wifi comes. (Sorry, my text was a bit misleading^^)
The mentioned PSUs are the 24V ones that I have in mind for the later coming upgrade (probably already in a few weeks). But I don't know if I should choose the Aluminium-enclosed passive one over the fan cooled standard internal one.

Hello im new here and will receive my Duet Wifi + IR Proble sometime this week.
I have a few newbie questions that i hope you can help me with^^

My printer is an modded Wanhao Duplicator i3 V2.1 (Z Braces, Printbite, Titan Aero, etc.)
My plan is to exchange only the Melzi Board and install the IR Probe for now, the 24V upgrade, new stepper motors and maybe frame changes comes later.

The Heatbed is currently connected to an extra Mosfet, because as you might know the Melzi board has not suitable connectors equipped and that thing could actually be an fire hazard.
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.de/3D-Drucker-beheiztes-Bett-Leistungsmodul-Hochstrom-MOSFET-Upgrade/dp/B06ZYQN6VQ

I know that the Duet Wifi definitely has the right connectors and PCB design but my question is, if it still is an good idea to use that extra Mosfet on the Duet Wifi or if that is completely unnecessary and an waste of space and efficiency?

Next question: I know of Meanwell as an reliable PSU manufacturer but I haven't found and passive internal PSU that is capable of ~280W from them.
The PSUs that I found are all equipped with an (probably loud) stock fan. Also I would like to keep things enclosed so my plan is to maybe use that passive cooled LED-PSU:
MeanWell HLG-320H-24A: https://www.amazon.de/Netzteil-320W-MeanWell-HLG-320H-24A-Schaltnetzteil/dp/B01LYW4294

I have read that LED PSUs are not as good (not very stable Voltage) as the internal ones but I hope that this one from Manwell will be good. Whats your opinion on that?
Should I rather get an less expensive standard one like that: Meanwell RSP-320-24: https://www.amazon.de/Netzteil-320-24-MeanWell-RSP/dp/B00UANJYR2
(I dont want to use the combo of small PSU and an AC-Heatbed.)

For now my last question: In the Duet-Wiki there is a warning to not tin the cables as that tin could melt due to the high currents.
Does this just mean don't dip the ends in tin or does this includes to not use tinned copper wiring?

Thank you