Hi Lan
Your explanations are coherent and plausible.
I tried to translate your ideas into a drawing, but I'm not sure if I understood everything correctly.
See photos:
…. One more question:
If I have 3 Z-engines, I need the Duex5 expansion board?
BerTiNax
Hi Martin
It is difficult to say what the best design for a 3D printer is. Everyone sees it with his eyes and tries to build a good printer.
But I can tell you how I built my printer and I am very happy with it.
BerTiNax
Hello handicraft friends!
This is a small bridge that prevents the two belts from touching and rubbing against each other. It is a very simple and effective solution. (If you want, I can send you the. stl file.)
Hello handicraft friends!
First of all, thank you for your praise of my work.
I designed the printer with Autodesk Inventor because I also work with it professionally.
As the name of this thread already says, it is my first 3D printer that I developed and built. Thanks to all of you who post their impressions and suggestions for improvement and thus help me with the further development.
With regard to the building platform and the Z-axis, I would like to say that the threaded spindle is not clamped at the top, but only guided. Below at the engine is the fixed bearing, at the top is the floating bearing.
The four guide shafts are adjustable by the brackets, which have a little play before tightening the screws. During assembly, the building platform is at the bottom first, then tighten the bolts of the shaft mount, then move the building platform upwards (without threaded spindle) and then tighten the upper screws. Only then are the threaded spindles and nuts assembled and screwed on in the same way.
This really works very well. The mounting of the heating platform with only three screws is possible and a good choice. But I thought that four screws are a bit more stable and not statically overdetermined by the springs.
The panelling with plexiglass has been ordered but not yet delivered. The upper end of the printer is not yet clear, but I have some good ideas.
I didn't build the display in the 3D views. The DuetWifi can be used without a display.
If you have any further questions or suggestions, please do not hesitate to contact me.
BerTiNax
(Sorry for this English, it was translated with DeepL)
PS:
Actually, I'm looking for someone who can view and check my configuration files (. g).
Hello handicraft friends!
I built myself a CoreXY printer with Y-Splitter and the DuetWifi.
https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=3275ï
The G-code generated by Simplify3D contains lines for the temperature preselection.
(…. M104 S220 T0, M104 S220 T1, M109 S220 T0, M109 S220 T1...)
When starting the printing process, the filament is changed four times before the actual printing starts.
In my config. g I have defined two tools.
M563 P0 D0 H1
G10 P0 X0 X0 Y0 Z0
G10 P0 R0 S0
M563 P1 D1 H1
G10 P1 X0 X0 Y0 Z0
G10 P1 R0 S0
How can I prevent the change of tools from being carried out every time?
Hello handicraft friends!
Yes, I am also one of those people who want to make their own 3D-printer/or have made their own. My project took about 1 year from the first idea to the almost finished device, which is now standing in front of me. There were also some breaks and restarts.
A few key data about the printer:
Aluminium frame, CoreXY, print volume 300x300x350mm, Duet Wifi Board, 2x360 Watt power supply (one for heating bed only), Dualprint (with one Y-Splitter), BL Touch bed sensor, filament sensors, two Bulldog extruders, E3D v6 HotEnd, 24 Volt board tension,…
Here are a few pictures of my construction, looks in real on almost so!
In the meantime, the device has been running very satisfactorily for a few weeks.
But as a developer you are never really satisfied with what you have created.
My biggest worry is about the software I've adapted for this printer.
It's all working, but is it all right? that question tortures me!
So my question, is there anyone who can take a look at my. g files?
BerTiNax
(Sorry for this english, it was translated with DeepL)