Posts made by ccluck

@PaulHew , thanks for your support - it is working as I had hoped. I was babystepping with it a few minutes ago. Very handy.

For all interested parties, I have news - the $12 RepRap Discount Full Graphic Smart Controller arrived today, and instantly worked as it should, no set up or monkey business required to get it going. Yahoo !

So there it is - there is at least one Ender OEM LCD variant out there that will not readily play with the Maestro.

Thanks to all who contributed advice and comments - I appreciate your time and attention to this little issue.


@Phaedrux , me too, but further investigations must wait. GF has persuaded me to take her out dancing at the biker bar out in the woods .... it'll be a nice break from the print room.

@ccluck 

This is the back side of the LCD board I'm trying to connect - not same as the one in the Duet_Ender3 guide, but it works fine with a Creality 1.14 board and the upgraded Creality "silent" 1.15 board connected to their single ten-pin (EXP1) connectors ( they don't have EXP2 or EXP3 ) Like I said earlier, I have two Maestros here, each easily accessible, so I've tried both with no luck. I must be missing some fundamental key to the puzzle, like it needs some other key besides the M918 enablement.

they look OK to me, the connectors are snug when they go on, not loose or wiggly

@Phaedrux , yes, I was making every attempt to get the OEM Ender display running, without success. I only just threw the other one into the mix to see if it might work. Wasn't aware that it is an entirely different sort of device. I just pulled it out of a box of Tevo Tarantula that was given to me, read the label that says RepRap...... so I tried it.

To reiterate, my stock Ender 3 Pro LCD doesn't work with ANY of the suggestions proffered thus far. I've meticulously followed your guide, been back over it several times, tried everything suggested in this thread - all to no avail.

I'll buy a RepRap display off Amazon to see what's up - I'll be doubly sure it is a 12864 device. If that doesn't work, then OK, its an ineffable mystery and I'll just continue using an old phone when I need to stand right in front of the machine for babystepping.

Thanks David - I guess that's a non-starter then. I truly didn't know that. I think I'll order a 128X64 RepRap LCD off Amazon for $12USD. Worth the investment just to see if these two particular Maestros really will drive a display.

removed the G4 line above M918 and deleted the F parameter.

The RepRap LCD looks legit to me - labeled "RepRap Discount Smart Controller - www.bigtree-tech"

I've found a discrepancy between the known setup and what I have here - the guide shows the setup for a board labeled "128647W-10" while mine is labeled "ENH12864Z-1"

They are similar in that they both have the three big black dots on the back, but are actually very different in the arrangement of pretty much all the other components

Y'all reckon this is the issue ? My LCD is some weird variant that just isn't going to work with the proven pin connections ?

but that doesn't explain why the other LCD, the RepRap one, doesn't work either

Paul - I have two ribbon cables exactly like the one you pictured and confirmed that the index trace is at the arrow, both ends.

David - the Ender machine has the Maestro connected to the OEM 24VDC power supply, there isn't anything plugged into the USB port. The Monoprice machine has its Maestro running from a 25A 13.8VDC power supply left over from ham radio days, also nothing in USB port

@ccluck well, my memory was faulty - there is no hole on the back at all, so no possibility of any adjustments.

I suppose the next step is to try the one-wire-at-a-time hookup method, pulling from the EXP3 port on the LCD and breaking out the wires to EXP1 and EXP2 on the Maestro. Not sure I have connectors at hand for this and I'm not at all optimistic about the outcome.

It isn't a big deal, really. I just thought it would be nice to turn a knob to babystep instead of using the ipad. I would like to solve the mystery though.

@dc42 , this is the version that doesn't have a trim pot, at least that I can see. The display works perfectly if I plug it into the old Creality board.

There is a very little hole in the back of the board that may be an access hole for some adjustment - I'll take a look now

also, in case you missed it in an earlier post, I've got two recently purchased Maestros doing the same thing - with both the Ender LCD and a RepRap Discount Smart Controller from an old Tevo Tarantula

Paul's menu files are uploaded to the Display Directory, the Maestro has been rebooted with the E-Stop button, and power cycled.

gcode enquiry M918 gives this result :
7:26:29 AM M918 12864 display is configured, pulses-per-click is 4

still nothing on the LCD, the same bright field - actually, bright pale blue around the periphery, darker rectangle in center made up of little, tiny squares

I've tried @Veti 's suggestion - no joy. I commented out everything in the main file and put this at the top : text R0 C0 F1 T"Test"

didn't change a thing, darn it

working on uploading Paul's menu files now

In the spirit of science, I've connected the recalcitrant LCD to another Maestro with the same results. Maybe I have the menu files in the wrong place .... they are in the Display Directory, accessible from the Display Editor Tab on the DWC Settings page. Is that correct ?

@DIY-O-Sphere , thanks. I'm using the two-ribbon option as described there in the guide.
The connectors have been reversed exactly as described and illustrated in steps 13 and 14. I've got three ribbons available, so have alternated their use to (nearly) eliminate the possibility of a bad cable. I think it must be in the software. My reading on this topic indicates that all hookup details were figured out a year or so ago, when RRF 2.02 was the stable version. Any chance that 2.04 is different somehow ?

@Phaedrux

@ccluck 

Well, a quick and dirty power connect to the OEM Creality board brings up a perfectly legible LCD start up screen. Looks just like it used to before we migrated to Duet.

@Phaedrux , well, I have some challenges uploading photos over this DSL line, but maybe... it'll take me awhile to power up the Creality board, but I'll get started on that. The OEM display worked just fine when I did the big swap, for what its worth. I'll get back to you in a little while. Thanks for your time and attention thus far, and for the guide you wrote. Worked out just fine except for this part.