@fcwilt Hi, how change filament without retracting? I certainly could just push through the current directly following a new color but I kept the Tronxy bowden feeding and that is about 450 mm PTFE between the extruder and the hotend.
Yes, I know I could detach the PTFE at the hotend and cut the filament there, retract and attach everything and push new filament again but I feel that this is not very "elegant" I - as a guy very new to all this stuff - believed that this is done more simply. With my current temp in the heatbreak it looks as if I have resolved the clogging and can get the current fillament out, push new, properly cut filament back into the hotend and have a color change.

I just wanted to gather some confirmation that I am on a proper path to a good printer...clogginf is really annoying!

Ah, another one of my noob questions: I want to replace the Tronxy 3mm heatbed with a 6mm Alu heatbed. Is it possible / advisable to try to get the heating element away from the old alu plate and attach it to the new one --- and keep it working? Or should I take the safe way and buy a new heating element and have (better) glueing to the new bed? Problem is that it is not easy to get that size 330 * 330 as a standard size without waiting weeks.

On my neverending path to migrate my Tronxy X5SA to use a Duet Wifi as controller I removed the original hotend and replaced it with a better (so I hope) one: Phaetus Dragon. with my first tests I managed to have cloggend filament in the heatbreak part which took a complete disassembly and cleaning for the next test. Finally I modified the hotend cooling fan with small airflow guides that the heatbreak with its lower side has now about 36 deg when I set the nozzle temp = 195 (for at least 10 minutes). W 220 deg nozzle the heatbreak only went up to about 41 deg. I did a search here for any recommended cooling temps for the heatbreak side but could not find something. Are there goal temperatures which I should target for so that retracting (for filamanent change) is easy and error-free?
Btw: I did the hotend tuning and the new hotend heating works fine.

@dc42 The hotend cartridges go for 24V 50Watt (so a bit over 2A)... which might be some load when I will got for dual hotends in the future. I simply am playing the "burned (!) child" and have seen also a lot of threads here from burned fan mosfets etc. I would like to keep the controller as safe and happy as possible!

In this sense: what could I do to have safe (electrically speaking) fan power/control over the board? Is Mosfet possible there at all regarding PWM use?

Hi,
after having fried a Duet2 Wifi, I have restarted and rewired my 3d printer (originally a Tronxy X5SA Pro migrated to Duet2 Wifi) and decided to add as much as possible (and payable) to keep the controller safe when changing any components around it (heatbed, sensors, hotend, steppers). I have for example added a Mosfet between the controller and the heatbed and feed power to the heating via the Mosfet. When I swapped the original Tronxy hotend for a new Phaetus Dragon hotend for higher temperatures I considered to also add a Mosfet to this heater. The Duet2 Wifi is said to provide a max of 6 A (fused) to extruders so my question is: Is a Mosfet for hotend heating overkill even for 2 extruders apart from the gained safety of the controller against any failures? These parts are only around 10 EUR so cost is not a problem.

@droftarts Hi, could I feed an external 5V power via the ext 5V connector to the board and circumvent the failed components?

@hlwerschner ah, I just attach these two details...

@phaedrux yes, I will do. Which areas shall I show? The Z68 is near the usb connector, but I guess that the 5v regulator is somewhere else ?

I wanted to use a spare Duet Wifi 1.04 which I had used in a CNC router to replace the controller board in a new Tronxy X5SA Pro and had all 3 steppers + X/Y-endstops and 2 thermistors running with RRF 3.3 RC3 when I decided to replace the Z-endstop of the printer with a already tested BLTouch 3.1. I must have gotten the wiring wrong (cable colors are not original but for CReative printers) and after powering up, there was no 5V and no 3.3v and no connection to the DWC in browser. I detached all cables, buit no change, only one green led for 24V VIN. I moved the board to my PC and connected it to an USB and then there was a short smoke which I could trace to the board component Z68 near the USB connector.
Is the board severly damaged or is there a chance to get a repair done? I do not know what else may have been killed when I missconnected the BLTouch...

@dc42 and again I have to send a "Thank you" to you! Your hints for the limits use of G10 and workplaces is something I just experienced directly: After G55 for my Z offseted print bed, I issued a G29 and it promptly crashed the hotend into the print bed and bent off the mount part for the precision piezo probe! Very bad, its the 2nd time I have to glue it until I get a better mounting...

I had already considered to do the needed adjustments using some script and a few calculations myself. I guess I will shift my experiments into that direction. Looks like I first have to find a way to stop the nozzle crashing into any obstacle before playing with (Z-)probes

I will check those OM properties, they might help me setting up some more safety guides.