https://ibb.co/cCaNcK
https://ibb.co/iss2cK
https://ibb.co/cFfYjz
https://ibb.co/jEj4re
Now it's the long process of trying to tune the prints and improve my bed adhesion.
At the moment I the bed is probed in 5 places when printing, how would I convert to mesh bed compensation?
I'm genuinely surprised at how quiet it is! Do you have a donate link on thingiverse or a paypal account? I wasn't kidding when I said I'd be willing to pay and I do insist.
We're printing!!
I can already tell it's not a good print, but the fact it's printing is a massive step!
I'm using the recommended e steps for the titan extruder at the moment, but I'll measure this myself properly tomorrow morning.
I recalibrated the z offset and it came out at 0.995 three times in a row, where as beforehand it varied between 0.2 and 0.5.
I think the BlTouch was too high to work properly as you suggested.
Just changed some settings with the e3D and have ran a M303 to autotune and have set a M307 command in the config file.
I was having issues with adhesion earlier that I didn't used to have using Marlin.
I'm trying another print now with the new thermistor/PID settings.
Otherwise, it may be the Z offset that is off.
Hi, apologies I've been away a few days and had to collect the spare z nut holders (literally the other end of the country!!)
I've now repaired what became damaged.
I measured the BlTouch as suggested, to my surprise it was about 10mm higher than the nozzle, this was surprising as the whole carriage design is based around having this sensor and it's a genuine item!
I've now placed two washers between the BlTouch and the mount, this should bring it within the roughly 8mm.
This is the result of my mesh compensation now:
I'm using a genuine E3D V6 and having done a search of the forums, I have found this:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/2501/e3d-v6-thermistor-settings/7
Am I right in saying that I need to use?:
M305 P1 T100000 B4725 C7.06e-8 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
I changed the M556, M203 and M201 as suggested and set the printer to Home All in preparation to re do the Z Probe calibration.
Unfortunately, the nozzle crashed into the bed again and this time I didn't catch it time, it's now damaged the mounts which hold the z axis nut on the left side.
I have replacements which I'll fit, then I'll re-attempt to Home All again.
This whole printer seems like 2 steps forward 1 step back!
I'll update when I replace the mounts.
Could me setting in the G31 Z value to 0 (As per the calibration instruction) have anything to do with it?
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@latexcupcake Thank you for this, I've adjusted all my speeds to match yours. The Z axis is much quieter now.
Which extruder do you use, if I use a geared titan will I need to have a different speed?
This is the gcode I currently have ready to print.
This is the result of "Perform automatic bed compensation/calibration (G32)"
This is the result of "Perform automatic mesh compensation (G29)"
I'm not sure what's happening with the rear left of my bed in this case...
I can confirm that Home X, Home Y, Home Z and Home All works from the "Head Movement" menu.
I have aligned the x axis with the chassis of the frame (as advised by the creator of the printer) using two identical portable USB batteries.
I went to video the start of a print and the following happened.
It completed the G28 and then completed the G32, it then did it's priming streak in the gcode. As it was doing this and as it moved to start it's first layer the extruder was clicking. I thought this was either temperature too low or nozzle too close to the bed.
I'm printing in PETG and having used this filament before I set initially set it to 230 degrees and tried to extrude, but got clicking.
So I now have it set at 245 degrees and it'll extrude (although it seems to cool very quickly so it may still not be hot enough.
I tried to print again and there was more clicking, knowing that the temperature was able to extrude now, I decided to check the z offset.
In marlin, I used to use M851 Z-. and trial and error until I had it tuned in, but because I still don't know how to do this on reprapfirmware, I decided to edit it in the slicer. I experimented until I found that 0.5 to 0.6 wouldn't click and would extrude.
When I went to print again, the printer successfully completed G28 and the four corners of G32, but when it went to probe the centre of the bed, it crashed into it again.
This is a genuine BLTouch so it should be ok, could it be it that's at fault?
I'm currently uploading a video to One Drive, you'll see that the head crashes into the bed, the BLTouch starts flashing and then it continues to print with the nozzle too close to the bed.
The video is here:
https://1drv.ms/v/s!AvB1JFYrIu_kgv97807T8m62Fk_Xmg
Apologies for the size, as you can see on the G28 and the four corners of the G32 the BLTouch works as intended.
Then either the nozzle crashes into the bed and just keeps crashing, or, as shown in the video it will crash into the bed, the BLTouch will start flashing and then the print will continue with the nozzle too close to the bed.