Sorry, TC issues … Autocorrect on my mobile

Maybe instead of using a auto on-off feature, which could imply some safety issues, it would be useful to store an restore the current state of atx.
I also use the M80/M81 command's in my start end custom codes and am quite happy with it, however I also sometimes forget it when priming or adjusting the machine. So e.g. in the bed leveling macro the current state could be stored, atx activated and after command's executed the original state could be restored.
(It would be counterproductive to switch it off if it was on before, but making sure it is on to execute the command's also makes sense)

I have not done the latest update yet, bit I can confirm that with T0/T1 it now works also on the paneldue.
However, thanks to David's mod proposed on the TV issues I hope not to see too many heater faults any more

Ok, from here I can confirm it works after the endurance run.
I finished a 14h print by now without temp faults (which was completely blocking since my thermistor hot end failed and I switched to TCs, at least as soon as I switched the motors on).

I now only have to decide if I take out the series resistors or leave then in.
But as long as it works I think I consider it as a running system

Thanks again for proposing this mod!

I have the same issue.
I can reset temp faults with M562 P1 on the paneldue, but to set the heater active I have to use the web interface. With the nozzle button I can only toggle off/standby after the fault (normally it works … Also for the bed it works)

Thanks!
I was facing severe issues with this problem as well.
Actually I am using the ardafruit break out board with the duet WiFi.
I applied this mod and added two 250ohm series resistors as well (up to 1000 ohm shall be ok according to the maxim faq https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/support/faqs/max31855-faq.html))
I bought some ferrite beads as well but didn't put them so far.

So far the result is very promising and I ordered my machine a half day print for test, and will report later …

Hi, i have the same issue (while working on exchanging a hotend …)
My F1 measures ~100 ohm, probably this is too much.
What type is the fuse exactly?

Thanks and Regards,

Jan