Topics created by johnjohn1990

You said that a light on the printer is flashing or pulsating when the PID kicks in. What light is that, and how is it powered?

@johnjohn1990 said in first time delta experience, autocalbration:

yep i did that and it works! i kept the arm distance what i know it is - i cant measure more precise than the visibility of a difference in a mm scale.. i do not have calipers above 150mm... otherwise i could get it more precise.. but it is somewhere between 216 and 217mm... 216.5 is standard.. radius of 102 is also more exact, to what i have seen it can do, if i move it by hand..

Pre-made arms should have a sticker on them with xx.xx level precision.

could it be a shitty endstop? - using that as a probe, with the lever on it.. - i am intending to get something better..

Do repeated calibrations converge? Meaning below 0.05?

@johnjohn1990 said in first time delta experience, autocalbration:

i will say i am printing right now!

Fantastic!! By the way, I recommend a simple (probably 8 point) calibration before every print (if your probe supports that).

manually check the output of all commands like M201,M204 etc by imputing them in the console.

if could be that they are not parsed correctly because of misspelling or additional characters or beeing overwritten by config-overwrite.

also check your slicer configuration. things like max acceleration and jerk can be overwritten by the slicer.
so if you have 2 different configs for the printer that could also be the cause.

@johnjohn1990 said in Manual G29/bed compensation:

So i should just enable mesh compensation, with no z probe?

Yes, with the Z probe type set to "none", which is P0 in your M558 command in config.g.

@steveyyc said in Linear advance, what to look for:

It sounds like you are having the same issue I was having. I have a fairly long bowden tube and couldn't see any change in my pressure advance settings. It turned out the problem was I wasn't going far enough into the pressure advance values. I wound up needing to go up to 1.485 to get the improvement I was looking for.

To save time, I used a script-driven pressure advance object like this one:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3442071

It uses post processing to increase the pressure advance for every Z layer so you can test a large range of values in just one print - whichever layer looks best you just measure height with a caliper to figure out the pressure advance value you need.

Thats a pretty awesome one 🙂 i will definately bookmark that!

Though i actually just printed my most neatly looking piece of a boat last night..

It seems that it was all due to a failing extruder 😕 so messed up i didnt see this earlier.. i feel so dumb...
But thats jusy how it is.. cant change what has happend 😁

But i will play around with pa when i get it stable for more than this one filament 🙂

And thank you for your help everyone 😁 seems that a little bit of info from all of you made it all work!

Im currently running 8mm @ 40mm/s and its perfect.. when i cant feel retract points when i run my finger over them, i will say its approved 🙂

@dc42 said in Possible short in pt100? Sparking hotend:

@johnjohn1990 said in Possible short in pt100? Sparking hotend:

Now im asking stupid... how do i check for shortage in pt100 and heater? That stuff isnt really my primary doing..

Disconnect tghe PT100 wires from the daughter board, then use a multimeter to measure the resistance between one of the PT100 wires and the hot end metalwork. Your multimeter should report it as "infinite".

Check between one of the heater wires and the jot end metal work in the same way.

Its not grounded on 220v side, since i dont have any 3pin plugs in my wall..

Ouch! Is that legal in your country? Here in the UK, anything with a metal case (such as the case of the Meanwell) must be powered using a 3-core mains cable and plug. There is no such thing as a 2-pin wall socket, except for a shaver socket that has a built-in isolating transformer.

Legal and legal... depends..
If the electrical installations in the property is older than before the law you mention, its only related to if youre running a business, and insurance coverage if something catches fire...
Ive never heard otherwise... 🙂

It just says "1"... as it shows if i dont connect it to anything.. so i believe that is ok?
Tried all 4 wires, all fans and heater, nothing...

Also i cant measure any voltage between hotend/carriage and case/frame... nothing..

This still happens when i take heater and fans completely off.. so right now its only the pt100 connected to the board, and it still does it... this my 4th pt100 sensor in half a year 😮

it SEEMS its fixed, by removing my whole end gcode in cura, replacing it with M0, to call stop.g.. then i have put in my end gcode in stop.g, and now it seems to work 😄 i will tell you in 14-15 hours when my dual color print hopefully is done 🙂