Posts made by Kamacuras

Slaps forehead.... yeah, more comes out of the nozzle, I was expecting the requested amount through the nozzle, but I completely ignored the fact that the filament is being squeezed, therefore stretched. So all good then.

Thanks

-David

Hello...

Is it normal for a manual extrusion (via the web interface) to extrude more material than requested? My Extruder is calibrated, by measuring the filament extruded at 100mm with the bowden detached from the hotend... as measured it is within .5mm when extruding 100mm. However, if extruding through the hotend at temp, I literally get 10x what is requested. If I tell it to extrude 1mm at 1mm/sec, I get nothing for a second or two, then 10mm will come out, at a nice steady pace. If I request 5mm, about 50mm will come out. At times the delay before it starts can be 3 or 4 seconds as well, but is usually a second or two, and very little delay if doing extrudes quickly one after another.

It would be understandable if a little extra came out due to gravity and with a delay due to the bowden (I'm on a delta), but this seems a bit extreme to say the least, and the material extruded is not thinning out as if being stretched. While I have been fighting extrusion issues during prints, (I get symptoms of both under and over extrusion at the same time), but during a print, there is no way I am over extruding by 10x, so that is only happening on the manual extrude.

So, normal or no? This is on a Rostock Max delta, using PLA at between 195 and 210c.

Thanks

-David

Nor are they available in 30mm (or 25). I have a couple of the 40's, I may try to design a duct for them, although there may be something floating out there already.

Thanks

-David

It was the M120 beep commands I had in there to warn me to remove any ooze before the print starts. On the Rambo board, M120 is a beep, not so on this one, it is something else entirely. When I redid the beeps with M300's, all works.

First test print running now. Damn that thing is quiet. Well, the motion anyway. The fans not so much. I just need to find quieter 30mm fans. The printer is 3 feet behind my head, and I need to keep looking over to make sure the thing is still moving.

-David

Hello...

I've worked my way through most Z probe/FSR issues, and it all works, until, I try to add G32 to the start code in my slicer. When that code is run, it hits the G32 line then gives me an "insufficient axes homed", then a bunch of Stack Overfows. It then continues with the rest of the code, which goes terribly wrong...

The calibration works when I hit the button or run G32, and there is a G28 in the bed file, all work, but when G32 is run from the Gcode, no go.

Here are some relevant files...

Bed.g

; bed.g
; called to perform automatic delta calibration via G32
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Wed Aug 22 2018 14:14:40 GMT-0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
M561 ; clear any bed transform
;G28 ; home all towers
; bed.g file for RepRapFirmware, generated by Escher3D calculator
; 16 points, 6 factors, probing radius: 100, probe offset (0, 0)
G28
G30 P0 X0.00 Y100.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P1 X50.00 Y86.60 Z-99999 H0
G30 P2 X86.60 Y50.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P3 X100.00 Y0.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P4 X86.60 Y-50.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P5 X50.00 Y-86.60 Z-99999 H0
G30 P6 X0.00 Y-100.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P7 X-50.00 Y-86.60 Z-99999 H0
G30 P8 X-86.60 Y-50.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P9 X-100.00 Y-0.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P10 X-86.60 Y50.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P11 X-50.00 Y86.60 Z-99999 H0
G30 P12 X0.00 Y50.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P13 X43.30 Y-25.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P14 X-43.30 Y-25.00 Z-99999 H0
G30 P15 X0 Y0 Z-99999 S6

Homedelta.g

; homedelta.g
; called to home all towers on a delta printer
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Wed Aug 22 2018 14:14:41 GMT-0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
; Slow homing has been configured. Change F300 to F3000 below when your configuration is working
G1 S1 X380 Y380 Z400 F2400 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)
G1 X-5 Y-5 Z-5 F3000 S2 ; go down a few mm
;Slow homing has been configured. Change F300 to F1500 below when your configuration is working
G1 S1 X10 Y10 Z10 F900 ; move all towers up once more (second pass)
;G1 Z-5 F6000 ; move down a few mm so that the nozzle can be centred
G90 ; absolute positioning
;G1 X0 Y0 F6000 ; move X+Y to the centr

and the start of the Gcode...

G90 ;set to absolute
M82 ;Extruder to absolute
M106 S255
G4 P500
M106 S0
;Starting Gcode for Duet

G28 ;home towers
G1 Z360 F1800 ;drop to 360

M140 S60 ;start bed
M190 S60 ;wait for bed to reach temp
G4 S180 ;wait for 3 min
M104 S205 T0 ;start ext
M109 S205 T0 ;wait for ext to reach temp

M83 ;Extruder to relative
G1 E-3 F200 ;retract 3mm
M82 ;Extruder to absolute

G4 S30 ;wait extra time to equalizetemp
;Starting Beeps for Printer
M120 S4 P10
G4 P40
M120 S4 P10
G4 P40
M120 S4 P10
G4 P40
M120 S4 P10
G4 P40
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
;countdown
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S4 P10
G4 P1000
M120 S3 P50
G4 P2000
;End beeps
;Do Not Use G28

G32 ;Calibrate Printer

G92 E0
G1 E-3.0000 F3000
G1 Z0.300 F4500
; process Process1
; layer 1, Z = 0.200
T0
; tool H0.200 W0.720
; skirt
G1 X20.750 Y-10.741 F9000
G1 Z0.200 F4500
G1 E0.0000 F900
G92 E0
G1 X20.750 Y12.874 E1.3820 F1050
G1 X20.686 Y13.460 E1.4165
G1 X20.416 Y14.677 E1.4895
G1 X20.226 Y15.236 E1.5240
...

Ideas? Code was generated in Simplify3D.

Thanks

-David

I think I get it now, I was thinking the trigger height was relative to the homed height, but it is in fact the difference between the actual bed surface and the amount it dips before triggering. That makes more sense and answers the questions above.

Slowly wrapping my head my head around all this...

-David

Another question...

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer

Measuring the trigger height

2. Cancel any existing bed compensation by sending M561
3. Send M208 S1 Z-3 to temporarily allow Z moves down to Z=-3mm. This is to ensure that you can lower the nozzle all the way to the bed in step 5.
4. Command the print head to the XY coordinates you want to probe
5. Command the print head down in small steps until the nozzle just touches the bed or just grips a sheet of paper. You may need to send M564 S0 to allow movement lower than where the firmware thinks Z=0 is. You may also wish to create a macro to lower the head by e.g. 0.02mm to get greater accuracy (G91 followed by G1 Z-0.02).
6. Send G92 Z0 to define that height as Z=0
7. Command the nozzle up 5mm (G1 Z5)
8. Send G30 S-1 to probe the bed without resetting the Z=0 position
9. Read off the Z height from the web interface. That is the trigger height.
10. Repeat the previous two steps a couple of times to make sure you are getting a consistent result
11. Repeat steps 4-10 for the other XY positions you want to check

When you have established what the trigger height is, set the Z parameter og the G31 command in config.g to that value.

SO, I do the steps as listed, and enter in -.2 as the trigger height as measured by the probe and enter that to the G31 in config.g and restart firmware. In the next section it has me check the Repeatability, I do those couple steps, but my trigger height is now -3.6. This is because the G92 Z0 in the last section is lost after I change the height in the config.g and restart. I originally had to move Z to -3.4 to do the paper test at which point I did the G92 Z0 and the probes.

Does that matter? Do I need to change the trigger height to the new value? Or change my printable height to be more accurate (looks to be 3.4 or so too short in the M665). I'm not sure I understand the point of resetting Z if that is thrown out after a restart, nullifying the trigger height.

confused yet? I am...

thanks

-David

removing the invert on the m558 has allowed me to move on. Fingers crossed for the rest...

-David

never mind on that last part, the manual control is disabled until I do a home all or g28, so I need to do that to follow the steps in the guide (even though the guide doesn't implicitly say to do a home first.

-David

So I replaced the P4 with P8, and now when I do "G30 S-1" nothing happens and I get an error "Z probe already triggered at start of probing move". I noticed that in the machine status area it lists the Z probe as 1000 as the default state, and when I press the bed it drops to 0. Should that be the other way around? I currently have an i1 in the m558 line, should that be removed?

I have also been homing the machine when I turn it on before I try to do anything else, maybe I shouldn't do that? I'll try again without doing that...

thanks

-David

I had that as p5 at first but didn’t realize it changed, likely from replacing that line with one from another thread or site while trying to troubleshoot, but I’ve changed a few things since then so I’ll give it a go.

Thanks

-David

Hello...

I've had a Rostock max v2 since 2014, but it hasn't seen much action in the past 2 or 3 years. I recently started using it again and have upgraded... e3d v6, titan extruder, PEI bed, and after that was all working I threw in a Duet Ethernet and JohnSL FSR setup. That is all wired up and basically working... motors going in right direction, heaters working and calibrated, FSR lights triggering, etc. I can do a g28 home, and that works fine, but I am now stuck at the FSR/Calibration setup. I have tried various things and looked at a dozen (at least) different sources with info, often conflicting or single source.

I am trying to go through the steps here... https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Calibrating_a_delta_printer . I get to step 8. Send G30 S-1 to probe the bed without resetting the Z=0 position. When I enter that the head moves down, crunches the bed, and keeps trying to move down at which point I power down.

I have not tried everything I've read as I figured it would be better to check here before I end up breaking something. So the printer hardware is Rostock v2, TrickLaser arms (old version), E3d v6, titan extruder, and FSR. The FSR out is plugged into the duet Z probe input (I've read of putting it in the E0 endstop plug, but the Z guide here said to use the Z probe). Duet is the latest as of a couple weeks ago, and I updated the firmware and web interface at that time. The FSR board has two jumpers, one setting sensitivity to .95, the other to set switch mode (NC).

I used the RepRap config tool to generate the sys files, and cross referenced some older rostock files I found. I've tweaked the configs based on various sites and posts. Files read as below...

Config.g
; Configuration file for Duet Ethernet (firmware version 1.21)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Wed Aug 22 2018 14:14:40 GMT-0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)

; General preferences
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves

; The homed height is deliberately set too high in the following - you will adjust it during calibration.
M665 R130.25 L269 B125 H367 ; Set delta radius, diagonal rod length, printable radius and homed height
M666 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Put your endstop adjustments here, or let auto calibration find them

; Network
M550 PRostock Max V2 ; Set machine name
M552 P0.0.0.0 S1 ; Enable network and acquire dynamic address via DHCP
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 ; X Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S0 ; Y Drive 1 goes backwards
M569 P2 S1 ; Z Drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 ; EXT Drive 3 goes backwards
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; Configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80 Y80 Z80 E401 ; Set steps per mm
M566 X1200 Y1200 Z1200 E1200 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z18000 E1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E800 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 Z0 S1 ; Set minimum Z

; Endstops
M574 X2 Y2 Z2 S1 ; Set active high endstops

; Z-Probe
M558 P4 H5 F120 T6000 I1 ; Set Z probe type to switch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X0 Y0 Z2.5 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 R100 S20 ; Define mesh grid

; Heaters
M307 H0 B0 S1.00 ; Disable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0
M143 H0 S120 ; Set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 1
M143 H1 S280 ; Set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

; Fans
M106 P0 S0 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T45 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned on
M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off

; Tools
M563 P0 D0 H1 ; Define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; Set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Automatic saving after power loss is not enabled

; Custom settings are not configured
M501 ; Run config-override.g

Config-Override.g

; This is a system-generated file - do not edit
; Delta parameters
M665 L269.000 R130.250 H367.000 B125.0 X0.000 Y0.000 Z0.000
M666 X0.000 Y0.000 Z0.000 A0.00 B0.00
; Heater model parameters
M307 H0 A148.5 C596.3 D1.8 S1.00 V11.9 B0
M307 H1 A522.4 C238.6 D5.0 S1.00 V12.0 B0
M307 H2 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H3 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H4 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H5 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H6 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0
M307 H7 A340.0 C140.0 D5.5 S1.00 V0.0 B0

Homedelta.g

; homedelta.g
; called to home all towers on a delta printer
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool on Wed Aug 22 2018 14:14:41 GMT-0700 (Pacific Daylight Time)
G91 ; relative positioning
; Slow homing has been configured. Change F300 to F3000 below when your configuration is working
G1 S1 X239.66 Y239.66 Z239.66 F900 ; move all towers to the high end stopping at the endstops (first pass)
G1 X-5 Y-5 Z-5 F3000 S2 ; go down a few mm
; Slow homing has been configured. Change F300 to F1500 below when your configuration is working
G1 S1 X10 Y10 Z10 F900 ; move all towers up once more (second pass)
;G1 Z-5 F6000 ; move down a few mm so that the nozzle can be centred COMMENTED OUT as per Guide
G90 ; absolute positioning
;G1 X0 Y0 F6000 ; move X+Y to the centre COMMENTED OUT as per Guide

I wasn't expecting to get through this on my own, but I am all googled out, so any clues would be appreciated...

Thanks

-David

got it. Went to yet a third set, the white from the crimp kit (once again ever so slightly different that the white ferrules in the Duet kit... Metric vs imperial?). But even those wouldn't fit all the way in, so I did a second crimp of just the very tip, which crunched the end to the point where i could remove that little bit, an which point I could force it into the terminal.

Am I the only one w ferrule issues, or did some just skip them (like I almost did)?

Well the hardware is about done (just need to extend one of the FSR cables... they are too short to reach across the bed, any issues if one of them is longer than the other two?), then on to the software setup, which I am not really looking forward to, as I expect there will be issues based on my limited knowledge of such things.

This won't be my last plea for help...

-David

So I finally got a real ferrule crimper and a variety of ferrules. The Grey ones I bought fit my 12g wire, but the grey ones in the Duet kit were too small. So now all good with the main power and bed connections, however, my ferrule woes continue.

I just crimped my 18g hotend wires and they don't fit in the top terminals! I had used ferrules from the crimper kit (yellow) that fit the wire. I then clipped those off and tried the slightly smaller red ones supplied w the Duet, but even those won't fit. I am using a real ferrule crimper that crimps them into a square, and I have it set on a high pressure so they are being compressed as far as they can be. The wire is the wire that came w the Rostock kit, stiff 18g with 7 strands.

Do I need to start stripping off strands?

thanks

-David

Thanks. I already got the crimp tool (had no idea that there are so many types of crimp tools, ugh...). I can pick up some 12awg ferrules (I hope) at the hardware store. They will fit into the clamp on the board? There was another thread I found where they say they aren't sure if they would even fit. For the short term I'm just stripping off some strands by clipping with a 14awg wire stripper, and shaving off some of the thick silicone so it fits. I assume that will work without issue, at least in the short term. Other options are to get 12 gauge ferrules to use w the existing wire, or get some 14 gauge wire, or just leave my cheat in place.

Thanks

-David

I measured my clearly labelled 12awg wire, and it has a wire diameter of about 2.5mm, plus an extra thick silicone cover. I just looked up wire thickness, and it looks like 2.5mm is similar to 10awg, while 12 should be just over 2mm... could my wire be labelled wrong?

Thanks

-David

Hello...

I'm trying to wire up a Duet Ethernet, but the 12 gauge wire I am trying to use (based on what is supplied with the Rostock v2) for the power doesn't fit the supplied ferrules. What size ferrules are supplied with the kit? It looks like the grey ones are the biggest, but are clearly too small for my wire. What size wire is recommended that will fit for the power in? I'm using 12v power on a Rostock max v2, e3d v6, stock heated bed.

Thanks

-David