Posts made by PropellerHat

@falkia Thanks, you make it sound possible.

Now let´s see what on earth VPN stands for and how to set it up

Hi

I just jumped into something I dislike a lot, configuring things (obviously Duet this time) for networking in hopes of controlling my printer from home (it is at my workshop) and got everything looking great untill tried to use DWC through my phone without wifi. It was soon obvious Dwc works local only if further work is not done.

My question is:

What ways are there awailable to make it possible to control the printer from anywhere? I have read a bit about port forfarding and some are apparently also using remote desktop with an extra computer. I don't want to get another computer, so maybe the only way for me would be port forwarding..?

If other solutions (somewhat easy, I'm not a network config guru) are awailable, I would be happy to hear about them.

Thanks
PropellerHat

oh yes, the tuning... I forgot that again. will try that today.

Last time it said it takes too long, even when trying to tune it.

I got a ton of pins awailable especially on the Duex5. All the "extra" fans and endstops are not in use. How could one be taken into this purpose?

thanks!

Hi

Tried to find answers on this but mostly it was all about ethernet control of the whole printer's power...

I tried to connect my chamber heater in a stylish way but the safety feature of the RRF 1.2.1 kicks in after a couple of secs of trying to get the heater warm and even though it's a fairly compact 2Kw unit it just takes too long for the firmware and related error message is shown on the paneldue and cold it goes.

So enough with cool controls, I'll just use the thermostat of the heater (actually it looks like it can be all the time on 100% for ABS that I allways use) instead and forget controlling it what so ever.

But: It should go off when the print is finished.

How to achieve that? I still would not want to spend days in reconfiguring everything for RRF3 just to get the better chamber heater feats, everything else is just lovely.

Thanks in advance for possible tips!

Hi

After the proposed tweaks everything looks great!

Extruder does its job as supposed to.

Will consider updating the firmware just a tad

Thanks!

Oh, those extruder steps etc are from the past, totally forgot to remove then when changing into only one extruder.

Will try with proposed fixes this weekend, thanks!

What I am afraid of in the RRF3 is the changes in the logic of setting things up. I had hard time to get my head arount the more clean Gcode approach of older firmwares and still am far from really knowing what I´m doing so the new tricks look like a proper can of worms

Hi

I am rebuilding my old machine with Duet Ethernet and everything starts to be ready but:

I can't get the extruder motor moving. Last time I used the printer there was no problem with extruders that I had 2 that time.

I run an ancient firmware (1.21) because the RRF3 would take too long time to get around.

The problem in a nutshell:
I would like to try to remap the extruder into some other channel (driver 4 for example, I got plenty of drivers because of the Duex5, Y and Z are double motor stages so they are mapped partially on the DUex5 and working perfectly) to try to eliminate the possibility of the driver chip being damaged (allthough it seems unlikely).

When I try to remap the extruder, my tempreature reading goes bonkers, it shows 0.

Basically if I touch the E-motor mapping, things go weirdly wrong, but I can't get the sucker moving with the default mapping (leaving E out of M584 of the config.g).

I am starting to loose my sanity.

Only M584 Y1:2 Z8:9 with M563 P0 D3 H1 gets me correct temp readings and XYZ movement.

If I change the tool definition M563 P0 D3 H1 to M563 P0 D4 H1or anything else, I get the message "G10/ Attempt to set or report...Non-existent tool: 0".

Cables and motor checked, connector brand new and clean.

(Here's a practical way for that btw: "short" the cables of one phase from the connector with a piece of wire and turn the motor by hand- does it gain mechanical resistance with the shorting? If yes, all good. Then do the other phase.)

Here my config.g:

; General preferences
M111 S0 ; Debugging off
G21 ; Work in millimetres
G90 ; Send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M555 P2 ; Set firmware compatibility to look like Marlin

; Endstops
M574 X2 Y1 Z1 S0 ; FOR PROXYS (S1 means Define active high microswitches. S0 active low)
M558 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 H5 F120 T6000 ; Set Z probe type to switch, the axes for which it is used and the probe + travel speeds
;G31 P600 X0 Y0 Z2.5 ; Set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
;M557 X15:885 Y15:785 S20 ; Define mesh grid

M564 H0; Allow movements before homing

M584 Y1:2 Z8:9 E4

; Drives (Tn for longer pulse)
M569 P0 S0 ; Drive 0 goes forwards
M569 P1 S1
M569 P2 S0
M569 P3 S1
M569 P4 S1
M569 P5 S1
M569 P6 S0
M569 P7 S0
M569 P8 S0
M569 P9 S1

M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E16:16:16 I0 ; Configure microstepping without interpolation
M92 X320 Y160 Z3200 E500:500 STEPS PER MM

M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; Set axis minima
M208 X900 Y500 Z520 S0 ; Set axis maxima

M566 X1200 Y1000 Z5 E5000:5000:5000 ; Set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) “JERK”
M203 X22000 Y22000 Z600 E1200:1200:1200 ; Set maximum speeds (mm/min) SPEED
M201 X700 Y700 Z100 E250:250:250 ; Set accelerations (mm/s^2) “ACCELERATION”
M906 X1200 Y1200 Z2000 E500 I30 ; Set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent

M84 S10 ; Set idle timeout

; Heaters
M143 S300 ; Set maximum heater temperature

M305 P0 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Set thermistor + ADC parameters for heater 0, BED
M305 P1 T100000 B4138 C0 R4700 ; Ext1

M570 H1 P15 T20 ; HEATER FAULT P_Time T_Deviation

; Tools

M563 P0 D4 H2 ; Define tool 0
;G10 P0 X0 Y0 ; Set tool 0 axis offsets

; Network
M550 PLSBP Mk4 ; Set machine name
M540 PBE:EF:DE:AD:FE:ED ; Set MAC address
M552 P0.0.0.0 S1 ; Enable network and acquire dynamic address via DHCP
M586 P0 S1 ; Enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; Disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; Disable Telnet

; Fans
;M106 P0 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 0 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
;M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 1 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off
;M106 P2 S1 I0 F500 H-1 ; Set fan 2 value, PWM signal inversion and frequency. Thermostatic control is turned off

Any help higly appreciated

True, But there are some weird issues that was hoping to get rid of with the update... The most daunting is that I can't change my tool definitions without the machine stopping from working. Very weird. (can't remember now what exactly didn't work but there was no way to start a print if I tried to reconfigure the tools)

Also now when trying to test it simply by sending G1 E100 F300 from Paneldue results in "trying to extrude without tool selected" allthough I have sent earlier T0 or T1 in the console of Paneldue.

Go figure...

I just read the what's new in RRF3 and frankly I'm horrified.

Yeah I guess at least for now I'll stick to the good ol 1.21. Disappointed a bit though...

I remember using Bossa some years ago, but have forgotten the process completely and would love to not to get into it again

I have no need for the web control at all, so trying setting it up for this update seems a bit like opening a can of worms...

And the Bossa stuff also is a bit tricky.

Hi

Sorry for not mentioning the model, it is indeed Duet Ethernet.

Last time I updated the firmware it was very easy, just putting the file on the SD and commanding the update from Paneldue. I have never had the printer connected, always used the SD only. Trying to avoid extra hazzle in here, I am not a configuring guru (More like a grease finger).

If the good ol SD update is not a possibility, I guess then I should try to connect the Duet via ethernet. Can I connect it directly to my computer (Macbook) or should I go through the trouble of plugging the cable in the router? It is in a tricky place at our workshop...

Thanks!

Hi

It has been a while I touched my printer but lately I have upgraded/rebuilt the mechanics and now is the time to tackle down the firmware. I have read some instructions but failed to see if it is possible to upgrade from RRF1.21 to 3 with SD only.

I want to keep things as simple as possible, and maybe even continue using 1.21 since it works fine, but it really is old and I'd also like to put a chamber heater in my printer (not aware if this call for firmware update).

What do I need to do to update the firmware with the SD card if it is even possible anymore/in this situation (1.21 -> 3)?

Thanks!

Thanks for the tips

I have been out the workshop a couple of days but connected already the other day one relay directly to the fan pins and looks like it's the no-brainer way to go, at least now.

Just did a few tests with the cheapo relay module. I cut a trace on the negative side of the optocoupler's input and fed external 2 volts into it and the relay latched as I was hoping. Probably gonna try to get the expansion header's 3,3v I/0 to control the optocouplers similarly directly (bypassing the control connectors of the module) if you guys don't throw better ideas :I

EDIT:
getting the 3,3V from the header's pins 8 and 42 without setting the heater3 on. Doesn't look good, surprisingly.

@stephen6309

Yes I tried that too, when setting the fan out into 5 volts :I

What are they exactly, the HIGH and LOW input voltages?

How about the expansion header's heater outputs? Are these positive or negative connections (Heater 3-7)?

Before today I would have expected that every heater connection is positive and switched, and the - of every heater is connected directly to ground.

Maybe a 3.3v relay module connected in the expansion header's heater pin and ground would do it..?

And oh, after confirming the relay module is optoisolated I tried also desperately poking the relay module's control input with the negative wire from fan out and heater out, and also that caused the relay to activate This doesn't compute at all for me.

What ever I connect to the module that relay starts pulling right away and the state can not be altered with any command even though my multimeter shows the voltage being what expected in every case.

Bummer.... Tried already a heater channel for the same with same results.

The module is a no brand optocoupled one.

This:
https://www.amazon.es/ILS-acoplador-Canales-activación-Arduino/dp/B07H4KWV5P/ref=sr_1_17?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅŽÕÑ&keywords=24v+rele+modulo&qid=1556372772&s=gateway&sr=8-17

Hi

I have tried now for some hours to understand what am I doing wrong here and running out of ideas for a solution. I have a 24v relay module connected to the same PSU with the Duet. I assumed boldly that I just have to connect the + wires from the fan connectors into the relay module's inputs, type M106 (P0-2) S255 and watch the relays pull on.

No. When I connect the cable from the fan +pin to the relay module input (what ever channel) the particular relay starts to pull immediately what ever the status of the fans. When measuring 0 volts in the cables from the fan pins the relays get latched just by connecting the cable. What ever M-code I send the connected relay stays on as long as the cable is connected.

I have tried to connect the fan negative wire side by side into the relay module's power in negative wire but no difference in the behaviour.

Is the PWM of the fanout causing issues here or what? is the PWM 255 real DC? If it would be about the PWM I would expect the opposite problems, the relays not working at all... but now they are always on if connected.

Is it the negative side of fanouts that is controlled by the M-codes? how should I connect the relay module if that's the case?

Thanks,
hopefully this gets solved as my project is stuck.

Awesome. After adding the 1:1 mixing ratio both motors turn.

Great possibility that G1 E10:0/E0:10 to control which motor turns, allthough it might come more handy later to create those extra axes.

Now it looks all set up to get stuck with some other kind of problems than the configuring

Thanks!