Z motor blew

JamesM

Bingo!!!

That's why they include nylon washers to use when installing the board. Shorted that bugger right out with those.

A Former User

Ouch; ~~if you don't need all 5 drivers you can remap Z to use driver 4 which is normally E1 provided nothing else were affected.~~

But I'd start by replacing the washers with something less conductive; and check the fuse if the remaining drivers don't work.

(Just took a peek at the board layout, unless the top side washer has a burr that cut through the solder mask I don't think its the culprit, but it does likely span over both GND and Z_MOT_1B traces. But still, start by removing the metal washers)

Thinepa

@bot - the nylon washer is under the metal one- the metal washer isn’t actually touching the board, but I do see your point.

bot

@Thinepa This is why I asked a question instead of just pointing fingers. If there is a nylon washer underneath I can't see how it would be an issue, so long as there is no contact between metal and other areas.

Thinepa

@bearer - I was aiming to use E1, but would I still be able to use both z motors? I’m still learning (clearly), and am not sure if remapping the driver would allow me to use both z motor connections (the ones adjacent to the z motor driver) and the E1 driver, or if I could only use a single motor at E1.

Thinepa

@bot - I do appreciate that. I’ll remove the metal washers still - just in case.

A Former User

@Thinepa said in Z motor blew:

@bearer - I was aiming to use E1, but would I still be able to use both z motors? I’m still learning (clearly), and am not sure if remapping the driver would allow me to use both z motor connections (the ones adjacent to the z motor driver) and the E1 driver, or if I could only use a single motor at E1.

the only magic there is for the z driver is that here is two headers that gives you convenient access to run two motors in series - you could replicate the same arrangement with wiring the motors in series before connecting to the single E1 header.

Thinepa

@bearer - that makes sense. Thanks!

A Former User

but maybe find out what caused the short first so you don't end up with E1 sending smoke signals

Thinepa

@bearer - true. I’m thinking I mis-wired my z motors. Breaking out the multimeter to confirm.

Thinepa

Well - after some multimeter deciphering, I've come to understand that my z motor coils run A1 A2 B1 B2, whereas my other stepper motors run A1 B1 A2 B2. After removing all metal washers, rewiring and setting up my Z motors in series on my E1 driver, all of my axes seem to be working.

My last problem is that I keep getting an error on my Driver 2 that it's over temp. I'm certain that that chip has blown, but is there a way to "turn off" that driver so I don't continue getting that error? I can turn off the motor with M58, but that doesn't seem to affect the driver error.

Any thoughts?

Phaedrux

Yes you can disable the driver using M569. Specifically the P and R parameters.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M569_Set_motor_driver_direction_enable_polarity_and_step_pulse_timing

dc42

@Phaedrux said in Z motor blew:

Yes you can disable the driver using M569. Specifically the P and R parameters.

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M569_Set_motor_driver_direction_enable_polarity_and_step_pulse_timing

Specifically, the R-1 parameter.

Thinepa

@Phaedrux - thank you very much. Worked perfectly. No more warnings.

Thinepa

@dc42 - the wiki is super helpful. So much to learn. Thank you!