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    Flickering lighting LED's when heat bed heats

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    • JTBrownundefined
      JTBrown
      last edited by

      Hi all,
      I've hooked up my lighting LED's to the E1 on my duet 2 wifi and control them using a slider on the Duet control. They all work great with loads of help from this forum, unfortunately I've now just noticed that they are flickering when the build plate heats up. Can anyone help? Cheers Jim

      dc42undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • Phaedruxundefined
        Phaedrux Moderator
        last edited by

        You can try changing the PWM frequency of the bed heater. I had to do that at one point where the bed heater made the room lights flicker.

        What firmware version are you using?

        https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M307_Set_or_report_heating_process_parameters
        M307 H0 F10

        Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

        JTBrownundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • dc42undefined
          dc42 administrators @JTBrown
          last edited by

          @JTBrown said in Flickering lighting LED's when heat bed heats:

          Hi all,
          I've hooked up my lighting LED's to the E1 on my duet 2 wifi and control them using a slider on the Duet control. They all work great with loads of help from this forum, unfortunately I've now just noticed that they are flickering when the build plate heats up. Can anyone help? Cheers Jim

          It sounds that the power voltage drops when the bed heater turns on. If the dtop is happening at the PSU terminals, maybe you need a better PSU. But if it is happening in the wires between the Duet and the PSU, then you could use thicker wires, or use an external mosfet to control the bed heater. so that you can use completely separate wires from the PSU.

          Increasing the PWM frequency as @Phaedrux suggested should make the flicker invisible. Try between 100 and 500Hz.

          Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
          Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
          http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

          JTBrownundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • JTBrownundefined
            JTBrown
            last edited by

            hi, I'm using version 2.05.01 firmware

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • JTBrownundefined
              JTBrown
              last edited by

              Do you have any recommendations on a better PSU? I'm using the meanwell GST220A24-R7B power adapter that came with the Ultimaker 2+. Thanks

              A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • A Former User?
                A Former User @JTBrown
                last edited by A Former User

                GST220A24-R7B

                thats a 220w PSU, MeanWell is generally a solid brand, if not cloned, it might just be under-dimensioned?

                not sure how much the ultimatker2+ needs power wise, but if its below 220w then odds are dc42's suggestions will sort you out.

                plan b could also be using an adittionalpsu dedicated for the bed instead of replacing it, but you might be constrained on space.

                (hmm external power brick, not the easiest to rewire)

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                • JTBrownundefined
                  JTBrown @Phaedrux
                  last edited by JTBrown

                  @Phaedrux Tried what you suggested for the PWM frequency and the PSU started buzzing, is this right?

                  A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • JTBrownundefined
                    JTBrown
                    last edited by

                    Does the board use more power than the original Ultimaker board because that's all I have changed?

                    1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • A Former User?
                      A Former User @JTBrown
                      last edited by

                      @JTBrown said in Flickering lighting LED's when heat bed heats:

                      Does the board use more power than the original Ultimaker board because that's all I have changed?

                      could be, but very unlikely on a scale to cause any problem. more likely the original firmware ran at a even higher frequency. the sound is likely to increase with frequency, peak, and be reduced as the frequency increases even more.

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                      • JTBrownundefined
                        JTBrown
                        last edited by JTBrown

                        I've just taken it to 600 and it still buzzes. The flickering stopped though so that's a start. 😉 Think I'll just keep the LED's turned off

                        A Former User? 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • A Former User?
                          A Former User @JTBrown
                          last edited by

                          @JTBrown said in Flickering lighting LED's when heat bed heats:

                          I've just taken it to 600

                          i'll defer to higher powers for anything to do with black magic and inductors, but unless the psu is failing ultimaker would have had to run at a higher frequency or have had a larger capacitor on the board.

                          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • JTBrownundefined
                            JTBrown @dc42
                            last edited by

                            @dc42 could you suggest an external mosfet that’d work well with my board or they all pretty much the same? Thanks

                            dc42undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                            • dc42undefined
                              dc42 administrators @JTBrown
                              last edited by

                              An external mosfet won't help if the flickering issue is caused by the PSU. It will only help if the issue is the resistance of the wires between the Duet and the PSU.

                              I suggest you measure the voltage at the PSU terminals, and at the Duet VIN terminals. Do this both with the bed off and with it on continuously (i.e. heating up). If you tell us those 4 values then we can advise on the best way forward.

                              Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                              Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                              http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

                              1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • JTBrownundefined
                                JTBrown
                                last edited by JTBrown

                                Unable to measure at the Power adapter terminals because it uses a R7B connector but at the VIN terminals it was 24.2 volts with the heater off and 23.83 volts with the heater on continuously. One thing I did notice was that the lighting LEDs flickered and the power adapter buzzed together when the temp reached 50°C. Also, because I had the printer on it's side, I could see that there was a red LED flickering next to the VIN to Bed fuse.

                                T3P3Tonyundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • JTBrownundefined
                                  JTBrown
                                  last edited by

                                  Has anyone got an idea as to what is going on please?

                                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • T3P3Tonyundefined
                                    T3P3Tony administrators @JTBrown
                                    last edited by

                                    @JTBrown said in Flickering lighting LED's when heat bed heats:

                                    red LED flickering next to the VIN to Bed fuse

                                    That is the LED showing the bed heater is turning on and off (which is normal with it set to PWM)

                                    The voltage drop you indicated (from 24.2 to 23.8) should not be enough to make the LEDs flicker.

                                    Can you try setting the Bed heater to "Bang Bang" for now and see they flicker as the heater turns on and off ( set B1 in the M307 command for that heater)

                                    www.duet3d.com

                                    JTBrownundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                    • dc42undefined
                                      dc42 administrators
                                      last edited by

                                      @JTBrown said in Flickering lighting LED's when heat bed heats:

                                      I've just taken it to 600 and it still buzzes. The flickering stopped though so that's a start. 😉 Think I'll just keep the LED's turned off

                                      The buzzing is the PSU responding to the change in load at the PWM frequency. It's probably harmless.

                                      Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                                      Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                                      http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

                                      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • JTBrownundefined
                                        JTBrown @T3P3Tony
                                        last edited by

                                        @T3P3Tony Thanks that done the trick. Could you explain why? many thanks Jim

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                                        • mendenmhundefined
                                          mendenmh
                                          last edited by

                                          I suspect the improvement in behavior with increasing PWM frequency has to do with stored energy in the filter capacitors. You may be very close to the limits of your power supply, ad it cannot provide 100% to the bed. At low PWM, you are fully depleting the filter capacitors, and requiring the power supply to ante up a full-power pulse during the 'on' phase. At higher frequency, the filter capacitors are supplying enough energy, and the power supply only sees the average load. It is likely to work much better with a bigger power supply.

                                          JTBrownundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                          • JTBrownundefined
                                            JTBrown @mendenmh
                                            last edited by

                                            @mendenmh Hi, thanks for your input, it was the "setting the bed heater to Bang Bang" suggestion that worked. cheers

                                            mendenmhundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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