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    Quick Nozzle swap

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    Smart effector for delta printers
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    • justus2342undefined
      justus2342
      last edited by

      I am using two Delta-printers, both equipped with smart effectors. I would like to be able to (manually) switch Nozzles quickly.
      The best thing I can think of at the moment is to have a full Hotend (Heatsink + heat break + heater block + heater + heat sensor) for each Nozzle. But it stilly bugs me a little to change the wiring every time. Especially the heater wiring with these terminals and stiff wires is not comforable to change.

      I do not really like my approach. Is there a good/common way to change Nozzles quickly?

      Tevo Little Monster (Duet2, Smart Effector, lin Rails, Magb. Arms)
      Anycubic Delta Linear Plus (Duet2, Smart Effector, Magb. Arms)
      Two Trees Sapphire Pro (MKS Robin, Marlin 2.x, D. Extruder)

      droftartsundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • droftartsundefined
        droftarts administrators @justus2342
        last edited by

        @justus2342 Do you have E3D hotends at the moment? I don't think there's a 'quick change' option for them, as far as I know, just the usual method of swapping the nozzle: https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Guide/Changing+Nozzles/45

        Are you changing filament at the same time as the nozzle? Are you planning on printing multi colour or material? If so, it might be worth going down the tool changer route. A forum member is building such a delta: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/16082/d-patch
        Or manually swapping the entire smart effector (assuming you've got magnetic arms and ball sockets on the smart effector), including hot end, filament feed and wiring. You'll need an extra

        If that's a bit too much, perhaps something like the Ultimaker 'Print Core' https://3dgbire.com/products/print-core-bb?variant=27691712449 where the nozzle and heat break clip in, and heater and thermistor connections are friction pads (I think). Though I'm not sure how you'd get that to work with a smart effector!

        Ian

        Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth

        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
        • baird1faundefined
          baird1fa
          last edited by

          The easiest way to make wiring swappable is to add a connector between the terminals and the wired device. That way you leave a pig tail connected to the board and one to the tooling. Then you just disconnect that quick connector. There are lots of options for connectors out there but pick one that has all the needed pins which is probably just 4 in this case, 2 for the thermistor and two for the heater wires. That is one advantage of using the PT1000, PT100, or thermistors for temperature sensors, is that the wire type doesn't matter, unlike thermocouples where you need the connectors to be the correct metals or you will get cold junction transition errors in your measurement.

          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
          • justus2342undefined
            justus2342
            last edited by

            Yes I am using e3d hotends, v6 (0.4mm nozzles and smaller) and volcano (nozzle larger than 0.4mm.

            Having a own smart effector for every nozzle might be a little overkill, not to mention that it would be a little expensive. The ultimaker-printcore way would be perfect, but I am afraid I would have to design it myself for the smart effector. Probably it might become a little bulky.

            But the option with the pigtail connector seems quite nice. I will give it a try.

            Tevo Little Monster (Duet2, Smart Effector, lin Rails, Magb. Arms)
            Anycubic Delta Linear Plus (Duet2, Smart Effector, Magb. Arms)
            Two Trees Sapphire Pro (MKS Robin, Marlin 2.x, D. Extruder)

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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