Not related to 3D printers but I regularly heat large metal tubes at work and use many heaters. Up to 40 on a system and each one controlled independently. Each heater does have an effect on the others but usually it is minimal.
It might be a good idea to do that but it may also complicate the slicing setup.
I’m not sure if that was helpful or not.
@Phaedrux well I was able to get the bed cleared off and run my G32 (bed.g) which I added a link to my macro and after the macro I added the M500 P31 in the bed.g and that saved the offsets correctly. So that gets me a work around.
Luckily you are using thermocouples. If you wire them all together the actual voltage signal will average out. So if you just take all the +ve leads and connect together on the same +ve terminal and take the -ve leads to the same -terminal it will average out the three sensor readings. Its a pretty old school trick.
good luck.
it bet that internally that pin4,5,and7 are the only ones able to do a servo signal.
it would be helpful if there was some error handling built into the firmware that would throw an error when you try to configure an incorrect pin to do servo commands.
It will likely be in this part of your config.g file.
G31 P25 X-31 Y0 Z0.6 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X20:215 Y20:215 S64 ; define mesh grid
Likely the X-31 is no longer accurate. With the probably area being X20-215 and a -31 offset it could still probe 11mm off the bed (I think). But those are the parameters that you need to adjust to get the probe back on the bed.
@Phaedrux maybe he has the same issue I had and it is interference with his stepper motors. It possible it was working for testing then he tried to print and now it doesn’t work? We can only guess.
@mrenz999 Try sending an M18 E0 command before you attempt to use the probe.
@lukas-aurarum try adjusting the H value in you M558 command that sets up the probe. I think default is 5mm. The z axis will travel an equal distance in the negative direction as the H value. So it will move 10mm before it gives up with the default of 5mm.
The reason that was happening it is was telling it to go to extruder position 2 from wherever it last was. If it is using absolute moves then that could be position 10000 or some other large number.
Looking at the GCode that S3D generates it seems to use absolute positions but every feature or so it sends an G92 E0 which essentially resets the counter.
Another way to do your end script would be to
G92 E0
G1 E-2
@mrenz999 If you could post your Config.g that would help diagnose your issue. Also your homez.g and homeall.g if they use the BLTouch for homing.
The easiest way to make wiring swappable is to add a connector between the terminals and the wired device. That way you leave a pig tail connected to the board and one to the tooling. Then you just disconnect that quick connector. There are lots of options for connectors out there but pick one that has all the needed pins which is probably just 4 in this case, 2 for the thermistor and two for the heater wires. That is one advantage of using the PT1000, PT100, or thermistors for temperature sensors, is that the wire type doesn't matter, unlike thermocouples where you need the connectors to be the correct metals or you will get cold junction transition errors in your measurement.
Hello all. Is there a way to define the mesh grids so that it takes a point every 50mm in the X but every 60mm in the Y?
Something like M557 X0:100 Y0:120 S50:60?
@Phaedrux I’ll give it try next time I have the opportunity.
@Phaedrux that is good to know. I have the ability to print some pretty long moves almost 400mm. So it would suck to need to pause midway.
Wouldn’t there be something? If you pause a print it stops where it is and reports the coordinates of where it stopped. Or does it have to complete a move before it stops?
@mrenz999 PETG is just sticky plastic. It works best with coated nozzles like nickel plated or nozzle X. But it really likes to stick to bare brass and do just like you said.
Another thing is when you print your first layer try not to squish it too much. Too much squish causes it to wrap up a bit around the nozzle and then it builds up like you said.
@dc42 I’m not sure I follow all of that. So if 24V was applied to Vin and Vin was used to power a fan as the + terminal and the - was connected to the out1 PWM terminal. You would feed 24V into the 12V supply through the fly back diode. But this would only affect out1 and out2 and not the 5V supply because there is protection internally to the 5V supply?
So in conclusion it would only harm the 12V output terminals if anything at all?
@justus2342 I’m not aware of any design where the belts are out of the chamber. You would essentially need a hole the same size as the range of motion of the carriage, which is basically larger than the xy build volume. Moving the steppers out of the chamber is easy with a CoreXY design as you only need to holes to allow the belts to pass through. There are some pretty high temp belts out there.
The build chamber doesn’t really need to be overly hot. I’ve see some that claim 200C but I’m not sure I see why. Any thermoplastics on the market don’t need a chamber that hot. 70-110 is the hottest I seen a call for in any filament.
As for part cooling, yes you could eliminate the fan but it may not be a great idea. I’ve printed several parts in polycarbonate at 300C that still needed some part cooling. Usually only 10-30% fan speed and the “cooling” is being provided by 70C air. So it like cooling with a blow dryer. So if you do make a really hot build chamber you may need “cooling” to help solidify the part so it doesn’t just turn into a pile of goo.
@dc42 hypothetically if you are not using the 12v for anything, what damage would be caused by feeding Vin to the 12v through the fly back diode?
When you cancel a job do you pause it first, then cancel? If so the you are calling pause.g then stop.g, so there is no need for cancel.g. But try adding the ending script into stop.g and see if that works.
Except maybe the part removal moves.