Not related to 3D printers but I regularly heat large metal tubes at work and use many heaters. Up to 40 on a system and each one controlled independently. Each heater does have an effect on the others but usually it is minimal.

It might be a good idea to do that but it may also complicate the slicing setup.

I’m not sure if that was helpful or not.

@Phaedrux well I was able to get the bed cleared off and run my G32 (bed.g) which I added a link to my macro and after the macro I added the M500 P31 in the bed.g and that saved the offsets correctly. So that gets me a work around.

Luckily you are using thermocouples. If you wire them all together the actual voltage signal will average out. So if you just take all the +ve leads and connect together on the same +ve terminal and take the -ve leads to the same -terminal it will average out the three sensor readings. Its a pretty old school trick.

good luck.

it bet that internally that pin4,5,and7 are the only ones able to do a servo signal.

it would be helpful if there was some error handling built into the firmware that would throw an error when you try to configure an incorrect pin to do servo commands.

what you are looking for is not PWM (pulse width modulation) you want FM (Frequency Modulation). I would suspect that the duet is not setup to use FM as it is not mentioned anywhere in the documentation. As Bearer said you can change the base frequency of the PWM and if you set the PWM to 50% and then changed the base frequency it might work to act like frequency modulation, but i doubt it. Give it a try, it can't hurt.

I do believe you can buy conversion hardware that will take a PWM signal and convert it to an FM signal.

It will likely be in this part of your config.g file.

G31 P25 X-31 Y0 Z0.6                               ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X20:215 Y20:215 S64                           ; define mesh grid

Likely the X-31 is no longer accurate. With the probably area being X20-215 and a -31 offset it could still probe 11mm off the bed (I think). But those are the parameters that you need to adjust to get the probe back on the bed.

@Phaedrux maybe he has the same issue I had and it is interference with his stepper motors. It possible it was working for testing then he tried to print and now it doesn’t work? We can only guess.

@mrenz999 Try sending an M18 E0 command before you attempt to use the probe.

@lukas-aurarum try adjusting the H value in you M558 command that sets up the probe. I think default is 5mm. The z axis will travel an equal distance in the negative direction as the H value. So it will move 10mm before it gives up with the default of 5mm.

Hello all, I'm not sure if this is allowed or not on here but I'm looking for peoples thought and experiences with the two common filament sizes. I have printers that use both filament types, and I've been fighting with the one that uses 3mm the most. I recently rebuilt it/customized it by adding the Duet 3 board and fitted it with the E3D titan aqua extruders (in 3mm) with volcano hotends. I did this because it was a 3mm machine before and I had a large supply of 3mm filament. It is also a large format printer with build volume of 334mm x 374mm x 588mm and I like to use 0.mm up to 1.2mm nozzles.

One of the things that I have been fighting with is the mass flow of filament. I'm using a print speed calculator to help me figure out how quickly I should print, and I'm finding that I can't print anywhere near the limits that this calculator shows. I find that I'm okay to print upto a filament extrusion speed of about 2.5mm/s which is about 33% of what that site tells me a Volcano should be capable of.

There is an interesting page that give a good explanation and seems to be consistent with what I have observed when it comes to the flow rate and extruder pressure.

I'm leaning towards converting the machine to 1.75mm filament in hopes that I will be able to get closer to 75% of the theoretical limit of the volcano. I would really like to be able to lay down a 1.2mm x 0.6mm tool path at a speed of 40-60mm/s but to do that I need to extrude close to 5mm/s with 3mm filament or 15mm/s with a 1.75mm filament.

Anyone have similar experience? Would I be better off staying with 3mm filament and using a super volcano?

Thanks for thoughts.

The reason that was happening it is was telling it to go to extruder position 2 from wherever it last was. If it is using absolute moves then that could be position 10000 or some other large number.

Looking at the GCode that S3D generates it seems to use absolute positions but every feature or so it sends an G92 E0 which essentially resets the counter.

Another way to do your end script would be to

G92 E0
G1 E-2

I'm wondering if there is a file that is created when the pause button is pressed. I have been having a series of extruder jams and I have been manually going through the slicer and Gcode to create new files to resume printing from where last printed. But I was thinking there must be a file were the firmware is storing the resume location, and that I could just edit that. I do believe I read that somewhere in the documentation but I cannot seem to find the file anywhere.

Thanks for your help.

Hello all,

I'm having an issue with my printer that I rebuilt and installed a Duet 3 and a BLTouch on. The issue I'm having is that my z-offset is not consistent, and I'm not just splitting hairs and talking about +/- 0.05mm, I'm talking about +/-0.8mm. Basically I cannot reliably start a print without needing to be quick on the baby stepping to quickly move the nozzle out of the bed surface, or drop it form mid air to the bed.

When I start a print, in my starting script I have a G30 to probe the bed and reset the 0 offset for Z. Then I load the mesh from a file using the G29 S1. The print head then moves over to the purge bucket and extrudes a bit of platic. Then it quickly moves to the starting point of the print, which is always a skit that is at least 3 to 4 perimeters to give me time to get the baby stepping done.

But here is an example, I will start a print and need to add say 0.3mm in baby stepping. Then I will start that same print again and I may need to either add upto another 0.3mm or I might need to remove some baby steps.

I would think that the obvious is that the probe is loose, but It is not, everything is quite secure. Is there anything else that I should check?

@Phaedrux I’m still getting that error too. It usually happens after a print or two when I try to submit a new print. Any update on a fix for this?

@bearer I’m not too certain what the other options are. There is that black box that open builds sells. And there are some other things that run Mach4 on Amazon.

Hello any of you using a duet 3 for a CNC router? I’m looking at getting an open builds LEAD or workbee and I’m wondering if using the duet 3 is a good idea?

Thanks for your input.

@Touchthebitum you will want to take the number of steps per revolution and divide by 2. Since your axis will travel 2mm for every revolution. If you have a 0.9 degree stepper and are not using any microstepping then you would set it to 200 (because 400/2) But I suspect you are using some amount of microsteps the number will be much larger. So take the 400 and multiply it by the microsteps, say for example 64 microsteps then it becomes (400*64)/2 = 12,800.

Hope that helps.

The issue you might be having is that you are moving quite slowly at 1200mm/min compared to the number of steps you have set to be reliable. I think many corexy system will move 20mm in 1 full rotation of the motor which would be 400 steps with a 0.9degree motor so that might be your issue. Try lowering that number of steps its your H value in the M915. also try moving faster.

I do believe you can go all the way to -63. Speed, and motor current are also a factor when using the stall detection. it took me quite a bit to find the sweet spot where the stall detection wouldn't detect the ball screw but would detect it hitting the nozzle. I have also read that it works better at higher speeds but lower current settings. Best of luck.

@oliverracing I cannot address your actual question, though I see it was already answered by DC42. But the heater requirement of 80W for the super volcano does make sense as not only are you trying to melt the plastic but you are also fighting the cooling from the surface area of the heater block.

For example, I have a volcano running the 40W heater and it works just fine to print upto 300C (without the silicone sock) and it even does fine with the part cooling fan full on. But if i try to heat the extruder past 300 say upto 400C, It won't reach that temp with anything more than 10% part cooling.

So the supervolcano at 80W is likely more to do with reaching the advertised temperatures of 450-500C than it is for volumetric flow. Also if you think 80W is overkill, have a look at the Typhoon extruder, it uses 400W and it only boasts a little over double the volumetric flow of the supervolcano.

Best of luck.

what you are looking for is not PWM (pulse width modulation) you want FM (Frequency Modulation). I would suspect that the duet is not setup to use FM as it is not mentioned anywhere in the documentation. As Bearer said you can change the base frequency of the PWM and if you set the PWM to 50% and then changed the base frequency it might work to act like frequency modulation, but i doubt it. Give it a try, it can't hurt.

I do believe you can buy conversion hardware that will take a PWM signal and convert it to an FM signal.