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    Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.

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    • Scachiundefined
      Scachi @CorvoDewittV2
      last edited by Scachi

      @CorvoDewittV2 Did you buy it as a kit ? Did you ask them (where you bought it from or the guys who designed it) if the have experience with this issues ? Perhaps it is a common issue and they know the most common cause in their design that can cause it.

      CorvoDewittV2undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
      • CorvoDewittV2undefined
        CorvoDewittV2 @Corexy
        last edited by

        @Corexy Thank you for the advice! I went through the Z axis very carefully, and made no change to the print quality ๐Ÿ˜ž I will try those setting tomorrow! I will also try a lower extruder current, cause why not at this point lol. You said you have a V-Core, how did you set it up so it works as intended???? I've been at this for 2 months and have made little change!!! Thanks again!

        Corexyundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • CorvoDewittV2undefined
          CorvoDewittV2 @Scachi
          last edited by

          @Scachi They have a Facebook group I have been posting in, with no help from the mods. One guy has actually been helping a lot, we are still chit-chatting about this thing. I really don't understand why I am having such an issue. It's so frustrating.

          Corexyundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Corexyundefined
            Corexy @CorvoDewittV2
            last edited by

            @CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:

            @Corexy Thank you for the advice! I went through the Z axis very carefully, and made no change to the print quality ๐Ÿ˜ž I will try those setting tomorrow! I will also try a lower extruder current, cause why not at this point lol. You said you have a V-Core, how did you set it up so it works as intended???? I've been at this for 2 months and have made little change!!! Thanks again!

            Mine's still new in the box, untouched. Been to busy with work and a house reno job to start it.

            I have preemptively ordered some bits to do the Z axis and bed how I want though, and will start a build thread when I kick it off.

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • Corexyundefined
              Corexy @CorvoDewittV2
              last edited by

              @CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:

              @Scachi They have a Facebook group I have been posting in, with no help from the mods. One guy has actually been helping a lot, we are still chit-chatting about this thing. I really don't understand why I am having such an issue. It's so frustrating.

              It's certainly not a kit to learn on, moreso a base on which to start an advanced build I'd say.

              I must say it's smart of them to stick with selling the mechanical bits rather than a finished printer, as it removes a lot of responsibility for print quality etc.

              You might try posting in the reprap forums "corexy" section, as there's a few experts available there too.

              CorvoDewittV2undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
              • Phaedruxundefined
                Phaedrux Moderator
                last edited by

                Worn nozzle or PTFE tube perhaps?

                Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                • CorvoDewittV2undefined
                  CorvoDewittV2 @Phaedrux
                  last edited by

                  @Phaedrux I've replaced both ๐Ÿ˜ญ

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                  • CorvoDewittV2undefined
                    CorvoDewittV2 @Corexy
                    last edited by

                    @Corexy I will check out the reprap forums too! Should have build a voron, or a railcore....

                    Corexyundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • Corexyundefined
                      Corexy @CorvoDewittV2
                      last edited by Corexy

                      @CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:

                      @Corexy I will check out the reprap forums too! Should have build a voron, or a railcore....

                      That might not be totally fair...there's a bunch of V cores out there (and here).

                      Just keep going over it, you'll get it. 3D printing is a total pain in the arse on its best day, they are fickle machines.

                      Use those settings and let's see some pics.. Those prints aren't that bad. I've seen plenty worse on here.

                      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                      • CorvoDewittV2undefined
                        CorvoDewittV2
                        last edited by

                        Its just for the money I've spent tying to solve this, it should be better. I am wondering if the lead screws or nuts are bad. I started a print before I left for work with a cube right next to each lead screw, to see if its better or worse by one. We will see. I also had forgot spacers inside the idle pulleys between the bearings, but reassembled that properly, no difference. I am running out of things to change. Maybe I need to change our the printed parts? The only printed parts are the ones that hold the idle pulleys, maybe I should print them out of something other then PETG. I mean that's what they suggest, but I am really running out of things to try. I could try swapping around some of the Z axis motors too. I tried a lower current for the extruder, no difference. What jerk and acceleration should I be using for a genuine e3d Titan?

                        CorvoDewittV2undefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • mwolterundefined
                          mwolter
                          last edited by

                          Did you do a temp tower test? Also did you look into moving the fans down a bit? I think theyโ€™re blowing right in the heat block.

                          Since youโ€™re closer on temps and resolved the backlash nut issues, It might be to do another test with the fans off.

                          If you have a the step or stl files for your hotend, please post them and Iโ€™ll design proper ducts for you.

                          CorvoDewittV2undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                          • CorvoDewittV2undefined
                            CorvoDewittV2 @mwolter
                            last edited by CorvoDewittV2

                            @mwolter OMG really?????? That would be amazing. I tried with like 40% fan but it didn't look better, ill try with no fan tonight, and post the step files. I went with the 40x10 fans to keep the hotend as small as possible, but I also would be fine with losing a bit of print volume for a better cooling solution. Thank you so much!!!

                            Edit: Yeah I have done temp towers, 200-230 all kinda look the same.

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                            • CorvoDewittV2undefined
                              CorvoDewittV2 @CorvoDewittV2
                              last edited by CorvoDewittV2

                              @Corexy @mwolter This is a PETG print I did last week, it was on the marlin board, but seeing as the Duet didn't change anything, maybe this will help ID something:
                              57e0fc5f-80a6-45fe-a2c4-14109e393a56-image.png

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                              • CorvoDewittV2undefined
                                CorvoDewittV2 @CorvoDewittV2
                                last edited by

                                @mwolter @Corexy I am also using these, do you think that is a problem? I will try the stock spring type when I get home. Maybe I should try printing some too.
                                https://www.amazon.com/Befenybay-Aluminium-Flexible-Coupling-Connector/dp/B07RMZCLZ3/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=3d+printer+coupling&qid=1594218589&sr=8-3

                                mwolterundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                • mwolterundefined
                                  mwolter @CorvoDewittV2
                                  last edited by

                                  @CorvoDewittV2 personally I prefer the solid couplers. They provide more support and are typically more axially concentric. IMO spring or spider (like in your link) couplers are only used to make up for design or construction flaws.

                                  CorvoDewittV2undefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                  • CorvoDewittV2undefined
                                    CorvoDewittV2 @mwolter
                                    last edited by CorvoDewittV2

                                    @mwolter I'll try printing some solid ones as my lead screws are straight and aligned. 5 walls of PETG should be good?

                                    CorvoDewittV2undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                    • CorvoDewittV2undefined
                                      CorvoDewittV2 @CorvoDewittV2
                                      last edited by

                                      @mwolter @Corexy OK I know this is a stupid question, but I have a dial caliper, and other than measuring the backlash of the z, is there something else I can measure that can help ID whats going on? It is in inches because America but still is there something I should test?

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                                      • Corexyundefined
                                        Corexy
                                        last edited by

                                        Have you tried those settings yet? I'd do that before you work on it mechanically.

                                        One trick I've found with PETG is that if you are getting blobs building up on the nozzle tip, drop the extrusion multiplier (not the esteps) until it stops happening. PETG prefers to be slightly under extruded.

                                        I've got those same plum couplings on my other printers and haven't had any problems with them. Why did you change them from the standard ones anyway?

                                        I've got nothing else I can tell you from the information you've given until you do the steps I listed on post some pics. Best you do the same cube an benchy for comparison. Definitely there's some Z wobble there, but lets see it without the over extrusion first.

                                        CorvoDewittV2undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                                        • CorvoDewittV2undefined
                                          CorvoDewittV2 @Corexy
                                          last edited by

                                          @Corexy Not yet I am still at work, ill be home in 2 hours. I just though spring ones were dumb, I changed them when I build the thing, IDK if I even printed much of anything with the stock couplings. Do you think the 0.9 deg motors would cause an issue on the XY?

                                          Corexyundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • Corexyundefined
                                            Corexy @CorvoDewittV2
                                            last edited by

                                            @CorvoDewittV2 said in Issues with print quality, wall surface rough.:

                                            @Corexy Not yet I am still at work, ill be home in 2 hours. I just though spring ones were dumb, I changed them when I build the thing, IDK if I even printed much of anything with the stock couplings. Do you think the 0.9 deg motors would cause an issue on the XY?

                                            0.9 deg motors are supposed to be the correct ones to use for X and Y, Z as well I am told.

                                            You need to run all of your steppers at 75-85% of their rated current. That's the done thing apparently, and is better than guessing.

                                            I haven't seen what your fan duct is doing, but it is definitely not good to have it blowing on the heater block.

                                            Let's see how those prints work out, and take it from there.

                                            CorvoDewittV2undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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