big problem duet3d maestro
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@engikeneer
I also add the result of the M122 -
11/12/2020, 01:01:14: M501: Warning: Heater 2 appears to be over-powered. If left on at full power, its temperature is predicted to reach 784C
This suggests that Heater 2 is waaayyy overpowered. And certainly a lot more powerful than Heater 1.
Prime reason for this might be that you have fitted a 12V heater cartridge to a 24V printer? That makes a 30W into a 120W heater which is quite dangerous!
Unplug both heater cartridges from the Duet and measure their resistance. -
@engikeneer
after seeing this result it is the first thing I did and it gives me almost identical values and in fact the heaters are identical from the same supplier bought in pairs -
@engikeneer said in big problem duet3d maestro:
Prime reason for this might be that you have fitted a 12V heater cartridge to a 24V printer?
That's what I thought, but it looks like a 12v system.
Supply voltage: min 0.0, current 12.8, max 13.0,
@luca-f13 Did you wait for the hotend to cool down before tuning the second heater?
The values you're using suggest they are E3D Semitec thermistors?
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@Phaedrux the heaters I bought are these
https://www.amazon.it/gp/product/B082HV788B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
but then again before the update they worked great -
@Phaedrux said in big problem duet3d maestro:
Did you wait for the hotend to cool down before tuning the second heater?
Are the heaters in a shared block or seperate tools?
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@Phaedrux
they are two separate elements
PRUSAnew.PDF -
Ah missed the 12V...
@luca-f13 Looking at the link you posted, the B coefficient of your thermistors should be 3950 (assuming you used those). Probably worth changing that in your config. I would also double check the resistance of both thermistors at the Duet, when unplugged. They should be 100K
Next question, do they read the same temperature when cool at room temp? If they're the same sensor and configured the same, they should match with a few degC
I am slightly confused by what you're seeing though. Heater H2 is the one that is taking a long time to heat up, but that is the one that also comes up with the overpowered warning? Doers it visibly take longer to heat up when doing the tuning, or just in normal heating? I'm thinking that with such high gains from your PID, the controller might just be limiting the heater as it thinks it is so overpowered.
If you rerun the tuning on H2, how consistent are the results? I'm wondering if there might be some noise on your temperature measurements that are affecting the tuning. I have seen a couple of people on the forum report that RRF3 is more susceptible to noise in temperature sensors than RRF2 (though haven't seen it myself).
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@engikeneer
I have 3950 thermistors but using those proposed in the menu no one gives the possibility to the heater h1 to reach 210 degrees for the calibration test I have tried all those he offers me and this was the only one that allows me to finish the testyes the two thermistors detected the same ambient temperature and also as values detected with the multimeter
no the h2 heater is the one that reaches 210 degrees in one minute the problem is h1 which takes about 7 minutes to reach the temperature with great difficulty
I am as perplexed as you are because there is no reason for these differences now I have ordered new heaters that I have just received in the afternoon I try to do everything with new ones then I will let you know the result
I am grateful for your precious help
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*****OH MY GOD *****
I found the problem is neither electronic nor electrical the problem nor software
now I hope you don't get mad the problem is with the heater block holder.
the two heater block holders were made of two different materials one in steel and one in aluminum so the heat was struggling to spread in one case and in the other it spread quicklyI am very angry but at least I solved it.
thanks to everyone for the help