@paolozampini1973 Others have tried to help you. but I think there has been some misunderstanding. Please read this through as there is a solution for your issue!

The onboard driver chips on the duex need only 3.3V, and the plugs you have soldered on are just tapping into that signal (that is why they are only 3.3V). As has already been explained, the extra circuitry, space and cost of adding a set of 5V converters on the board is probably not viable (have you seen how full the board is!?), especially as the use case is not very common in most 3D printers (and was less-so when the board was originally designed several years ago!).

Instead, Duet offers the expansion breakout board as has already mentioned by @droftarts. This allows you to acheive the 5V signals you are looking for and the details of it are descibed in the documentation:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_Expansion_Breakout_Board#Section_Signalling_voltages

As @droftarts mentioned in his post above, you can connect both the Expansion Breakout Board, and the Duex5 to a Duet at the same time. You just need a ribbon cable with three plugs on it. You can then use the Expansion Breakout Board to drive your external drivers (on 7, 8 & 9), and use the other drivers, heaters etc on the Duex. This should work fine for your application, and as @droftarts mentioned, this arrangement is currently in use by one of their OEM customers.

Also, as @droftarts mentions, it seems that your issue with warnings on Driver 7 8 & 9 stem from the board not being recognised as a Duex2. If you want help diagnosing this, I would start by showing how your setup looks at the moment:

• Pictures of your Duex2 Select jumper & Enable jumpers (to confirm these are correct to disable the onboard drivers)
• Firmware version (send M115)
• Config.g file
• Anything else that can help recreate the problem so someone can help you in more detail

I would suggest double checking your pulse timings and other M569 settings you are setting for your external drivers too. I personally use external drivers (different to yours admittedly) plugged straight into the expansion header on the Duet (so 3.3V) and have not had any issues. I have also seen the M569 settings be the main problems in almost all of the external driver issues on this forum over the last few years. It might simply be that you are setting the pluses too quick for your drivers to respond, and they would actually work with the 3.3V signals!

Finally, I would suggest taking a moment and structuring your posts on the forum in future, giving a bit more information on your setup, a clear description of your problem(s), and what steps you have already taken to debug/fix them in clear, separate paragraphs. This will make it easier for people to understand your issues and mean you are more likely to get a complete answer quickly. It will also help avoid any misunderstandings, especially if there are language barriers.

The forum is the main source of support from Duet3D, and in most cases seems to work very well (I'm the 5th person to try and help in this thread since you posted yesterday). I believe they are starting some form of paid support for commercial customers, but not sure if it is currently up and running, or if it would be suitable for you. As an alternative, I know one of the users on here has his own business in which he offers paid one-on-one support (https://nxt-3d.be/nxt-3d/services). If you need a more personal support, you might try reaching out to him. Again, I would still suggest taking some time to think about and structure your thoughts so that he can help you as quickly and best as he can.

Hope that helps

@zapta said in RRF configuration using object model notation:

@fcwilt, think of all the comments it will save.

Wait, you guys are commenting your gcode?

@gnydick said in Seems like Input Shaping plugin implementation is not usable:

it doesn't matter what the impulse was that caused it? That is very counterintuitive.

Since the ringing is a physical phenomenon, not something that manifests in the motors, how does this work?

Ringing is caused by the motion of the printer exciting some oscillation/mode shape. At its simplest form, think of a mass on a spring. That will always want to bounce/oscillate at a frequency of sqrt(k/m). k is stiffness and m is mass. You can hit it as hard or as gently as you like, but it will always want to respond at that frequency. Twang a ruler on the edge of a table and it will make a certain sound. The note it makes will be the same frequency, no matter how soft/hard you twang it, as long as you don't change how far it overhangs (I.e. the mass/stiffness)

Essentially your print head is a mass moving around on a spring (flexing belts, gantries etc), so will always want to respond at a certain frequency (40Hz in your case). The accelerometer is a way of measuring that response and find what that frequency is.

It actually gets a hit more complex as there are lots of masses and lots of little springs in a real system, so you will get many frequencies the system may want to respond at, just some will always be more dominant. Again, using the plug in you can look at these and pick a shaper profile to cover the worser ones.

Theoretically an impulse is an excitation that includes every frequency there is, hence the move you make should excite all the possible modes and so you can find them.

Once you apply the shaper, it essentially removes those frequencies from the acceleration part of moves when you are printing. If you then aren't exciting those frequencies, it is harder for the system (printer) to respond at those frequencies (ringing). Same idea as purposely waggling the ruler at a different frequency to the sound it wants to make - it'll never be as loud!

@breadandbudder check you have assembled the hotend correctly with a decent clearance between the heater block and the heatsink. 9 times out of 10 when I've seen V6's that can't hit temperature it's because the heater block is clamped up tight against the heatsink.

If you're not sure, you can post an image of your hotend here.

Also agree that I'd only really trust the proper branded heater cartridges. I've played with cheaper ones in the past and they are generally smaller and less round so don't clamp as well in the block. I had one fall out during a print once, though will never be sure if that was poor quality part or poor quality assembler...
30w should be plenty for what you need, but a 40w would also be fine. Much above 50w on a v6 can get very hot if you get thermal runaway so I would avoid those unless you are using copper blocks etc to reach real high temperatures (400C plus)

@sd_matt your tool 0 is currently off (it says under the tool name) so is not selected. Maybe add 'T0' to the very end of your config.

Also, unless you disable it, you will likely need to heat up your tool before it will let you extrude edit: M302 P1 allows cold extrusion

@tenaja That's down to how the firmware interprets the commands:

G1 E1 F5

Will extrude 1mm of filament at 5mm/min (RRF uses mm/min for speeds). As you are only commanding an extruder move, that sets the speed. So with F5, it will take ~12s!

G1 Z0.242 E44 F5

Will extrude 44mm of filament whilst the Z axis moves at a commanded speed of 5mm/min over a distance of 0.242mm. That will take ~3s, and you will be extruding 44mm of filament, so your extruder would be moving at ~15mm/s (that's over 900mm/min so a lot faster than the first one!)

All of this is also bound by what speed limits, accelerations and jerk settings you have for all of the moving axes (X, Y, Z, E etc) in your config, so your actual moves might be a bit slower/take a little longer depending on your settings.

@gnydick I think you're confused between Pressure Advance and Dynamic Acceleration Adjustment.

Pressure advance aims to compensate for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder system which can cause under-extrusion whenever the extrusion rate is increasing, for example at the start of a straight line when the nozzle has to accelerate from zero or near-zero speed, or over extrusion when the extrusion rate is decreasing.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Pressure_advance
It is mostly effective at stopping under/over extrusion blobs at sharp corners. If you want to calibrate this, I'd recommend the steps at the bottom of the wiki page above.

Dynamic acceleration adjustment is used to help ringing/ghosting in your prints by tuning out the frequency you set. I think this is what you want
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M593_Configure_Dynamic_Acceleration_Adjustment

I'm guessing you've already chased after all the mechanical things to aid ringing (belt tension, making sure your pulley mounts/axles are solid, reducing mass on your moving gantries etc). If after all of this, you find you can't get raise your printing accel as much as you want, you can always use your slicer to vary it by feature type (I know PusaSlicer, Cura and IdeaMaker all have this at least). That way, you can set much higher accelerations for infill, but drop it for internal/external perimeters to maintain quality. In Cura & IdeaMaker, you can also do the same with Jerk.

@sirisian-0 maybe the motors just can't go that fast? 2000 steps per mm at 16usteps is quite a lot!

Try dropping the speed, accel and instantaneous speed change (jerk)

In general, those motors are only rated for 0.4A so may not be that suitable for use at high-speed. Have you calculated what your max speed might be for those steppers?

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Inductance

@pro3d he's meaning add a second sensor. The advantage of this method is that you actively know if the shroud is getting too hot, and you could even set up over temperature warning if it still got too hot with the fan on (or the fan fails!). It also gives you the delayed turn off in on, as itll stay on til the heater has cooled (which may be differentlengths depending on how longs its been on). To me, this is the 'safe' way to monitor this issue, though generally I prefer to avoid designing in potential thermal runaway events where possible.

The Daemon.g option is the firmware only approach you want. It is a script that repeatedly runs in the background, so you can use metacommands (I.e. the RRF built in programming language) to put whatever if/else/while/whatever blocks in to control your fan based off accessing machine data in the object model. You'll need to be on RRF3 and do some reading up on the meta commands which is all on the wiki.

@fcwilt first, I'd take a couple of measurements and make sure they are consistent. Be cautious over the scale of the graph - it autoscales so one taller peak will make everything else look smaller!
Next, play with the different shapers in the tool. Some cover much wider frequency ranges than others you you can hit several peaks in one. Only trouble with wider coverage is it filters out more of the acceleration, so it will be a little slower printing. I use one of the wider ones with no issues mind!
Work out a few plausible ones, apply them and record a new measurement for each. Compare them and see which ones work best.
Finally, test prints. There's a few input shaping test prints around. You can vary the shaper or frequency applied every 10mm or so and use it for your final selection.
Bare in mind, input shaping is a useful tool for combating printer resonances and ringing, but it is not a magic sauce that fixes everything!

@jltx in my experience you are better to include the M190 etc lines in the Orca start code, but then comment them out. That way it 'thinks' you already have the temperature commands in there as its notnclever enough to spot that theyre commented out, but they won't mess with your macros etc (e.g. accidentally waiting for the temp to reach 0 if you use M190 S0).
At least that's what I do in PrusaSlicer...

@droftarts @Phaedrux either of you able to help here?

@yoshimitsuspeed sorry I've been away so not able to look into the calculations etc. First thing they ask will be FW and hardware and maybe to see your config file in case there's anything unexpected there (low e jerk etc that might impact etc). You are right that a 'standard calculation sheet' and a method to tune NLE would be good (similar to how we have for pressure advance).

Fundamentally, the process should be:

• calibrate e steps for your chosen filament at a low speed (e.g. 1mm/s extrusion) with NLE off
• run a series of tests where you increase the extrusion rate and measure the level of under extrusion, but keeping as many other things constant as possible
• plug numbers into the calculator and work out your parameters
• rerun your tests with NLE enabled and confirm that it is working as expected
• trial in actual prints

Personally I'd say that the best method would be the static extrusion test (e.g. pebbles) and then weighing them. If you do dynamic (moving) printing, then you may end up against head acceleration and other speed effects, unless you do a simple line at a single set speed and just increase the line width accordingly, but that seems unlikely to be sensible/viable over the range of feedrates you'd want to do.
I can imagine you'd want to repeat this (and your estep calibration!) For different filament types as the drive gear will always dig more into a softer material.

One extra thing... I think some of your issue may be down to your parameters you are setting. If you calculate the NLE rate you get at 5mm/s (reasonably high rate, but not crazy) then you get an NLE factor of about 1, so no impact at all. Maybe try plugging in the numbers and see what you're actually asking it to do? The maths is really simple so don't be afraid of it!

@yoshimitsuspeed

I'm not quite sure I follow the excel you show as you seem to have a 4th order polynomial and an exponential plot, but no 2nd order polynomial (quadratic) which is what NLE actually uses.

However, one thing that is clear is that you need ~1.56x more extrusion at your max speed than min speed you tested (100/64). First question: is that really true?

Second, what NLE command do you actually have, and have you specified an L parameter? NLE is limited to a maximum factor of 1+L, and L defaults to 0.2. If you haven't specified one, you won't be getting anywhere near the amount of NLE you need at higher speeds (1.2 is a lot less than 1.56). My guess is this is why you are having issues with your e-steps as anything above ~7mm/s would not get enough NLE based on your excel.

Link to the docs for ref, but I guess you've already been there!
https://docs.duet3d.com/User_manual/Reference/Gcodes#m592-configure-nonlinear-extrusion

@wesc do you actually need the backlash compensation in Z?

Typically the weight of the bed will always keep the gearbox loaded on one flank even when you reverse directions. You'd only go across the backlash if you are using z accelerations approaching 10000 mm/s^2 (I.e. 1g) where you are outrunning gravity. Granted a bit of friction might make that number smaller in practice, but I doubt you'd be anywhere near those limits if your motor has to run through a 10:1 ratio.

It's different on X/Y axes where you don't have gravity always pulling in one direction. I know I've seen many printers with 'anti backlash' nuts on the z lead screws, but they just don't make sense to me from a physics point of view!

@Skyhawk757 do you mean that your switch is open in the bottom half of the axis, and closed in the top half? (Or vice versa)

In that case, I think you can do what you want, but will need to redefine your endstops in your conditional between active high and active low, as well as the direction in which to travel for the homing move. Use a standard homing move, then G92 Z___ to set the z height to whatever the switchover height is.

The endstops look for the state, not a state change, so if you set them as active high, and the switch is already open, then it will think it has hit the 'endstop' and so stop and mark the axis homed which is not what you want in this case.

As @infiniteloop says, this methodology is a little non-standard and does carry some risks, but I think you should be able to work it.

If you have specific questions on the implementation, then probably best to post what you've got. I'll admit my knowledge of conditional gcode is a little lacking, but I'm sure someone else would be able to help.

@Tinchus that delay is not required to use the BLTouch. However, the reason it is there is because you are also calling the alarm reset command before homing. This will reset any internal error on the BLTouch (i.e. when it flashes) but it takes a short time (100ms) to clear, hence the delay. Your homing will fail if you try probing wile the BLTouch is in an error state.

I don't use that in my config, but means that occasionally I have to manually reset any error on the BLTouch which admittedly can be a pain!

@fcwilt first, I'd take a couple of measurements and make sure they are consistent. Be cautious over the scale of the graph - it autoscales so one taller peak will make everything else look smaller!
Next, play with the different shapers in the tool. Some cover much wider frequency ranges than others you you can hit several peaks in one. Only trouble with wider coverage is it filters out more of the acceleration, so it will be a little slower printing. I use one of the wider ones with no issues mind!
Work out a few plausible ones, apply them and record a new measurement for each. Compare them and see which ones work best.
Finally, test prints. There's a few input shaping test prints around. You can vary the shaper or frequency applied every 10mm or so and use it for your final selection.
Bare in mind, input shaping is a useful tool for combating printer resonances and ringing, but it is not a magic sauce that fixes everything!

@bernardomattiucci I think you need to read up on heat creep in filament as it sounds like that is your issue.

Basically, over time heat creeps up the filament in the extruder. When the filament gets warm, it expands a little. If it expands too much, or even worse melts in the heatbreak, it can cause friction in the heatbreak and so cause a blockage.

In normal printing, you are constantly pushing fresh filament through, so no big issue. When you retract, you pull warm/hot filament back up and so it gets worse. Lots of retraction and travel means lots of time not extruding fresh plastic so it builds up more heat and is more likely to cause a blockage. Cheaper filaments may be more susceptible to this, or are just weaker hence the powerful hemera just strips it when things start getting stuck.

I would check your cooling setup on the hemera. Are you using their standard fan? Is there enough room for airflow around the heatsink? Have you set the motor to the correct current? Is the hotend assembled correctly, with suitable thermal paste, clearance to the heaterblock etc. Have you got a silicone sock over the heaterblock?

@damaged_goods sounds to me like replacing the pin wasn't successful in fixing the BLTouch, so it's probably time to buy a replacement. There's not much you can do on the Duet side if the probe itself is broken!

@Inlinebrother you can try it, but if you're getting tilting of the head which varies around the bed, then that effectively means your probe z offset changes with position, so no amount of re-probing will help... really you'd need to focus on the mechanical issue or move the probe closer.

Having said that, multiple probe attempts is always a good thing as it should make the results more repeatable, and helps avoid any odd spurious false probes getting through.

I guess if you're able to print fine without mesh compensation enabled, then that's also a good thing! It's only really there to compensate for bent beds or saggy gantries after all