@paolozampini1973 Others have tried to help you. but I think there has been some misunderstanding. Please read this through as there is a solution for your issue!

The onboard driver chips on the duex need only 3.3V, and the plugs you have soldered on are just tapping into that signal (that is why they are only 3.3V). As has already been explained, the extra circuitry, space and cost of adding a set of 5V converters on the board is probably not viable (have you seen how full the board is!?), especially as the use case is not very common in most 3D printers (and was less-so when the board was originally designed several years ago!).

Instead, Duet offers the expansion breakout board as has already mentioned by @droftarts. This allows you to acheive the 5V signals you are looking for and the details of it are descibed in the documentation:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_Expansion_Breakout_Board#Section_Signalling_voltages

As @droftarts mentioned in his post above, you can connect both the Expansion Breakout Board, and the Duex5 to a Duet at the same time. You just need a ribbon cable with three plugs on it. You can then use the Expansion Breakout Board to drive your external drivers (on 7, 8 & 9), and use the other drivers, heaters etc on the Duex. This should work fine for your application, and as @droftarts mentioned, this arrangement is currently in use by one of their OEM customers.

Also, as @droftarts mentions, it seems that your issue with warnings on Driver 7 8 & 9 stem from the board not being recognised as a Duex2. If you want help diagnosing this, I would start by showing how your setup looks at the moment:

• Pictures of your Duex2 Select jumper & Enable jumpers (to confirm these are correct to disable the onboard drivers)
• Firmware version (send M115)
• Config.g file
• Anything else that can help recreate the problem so someone can help you in more detail

I would suggest double checking your pulse timings and other M569 settings you are setting for your external drivers too. I personally use external drivers (different to yours admittedly) plugged straight into the expansion header on the Duet (so 3.3V) and have not had any issues. I have also seen the M569 settings be the main problems in almost all of the external driver issues on this forum over the last few years. It might simply be that you are setting the pluses too quick for your drivers to respond, and they would actually work with the 3.3V signals!

Finally, I would suggest taking a moment and structuring your posts on the forum in future, giving a bit more information on your setup, a clear description of your problem(s), and what steps you have already taken to debug/fix them in clear, separate paragraphs. This will make it easier for people to understand your issues and mean you are more likely to get a complete answer quickly. It will also help avoid any misunderstandings, especially if there are language barriers.

The forum is the main source of support from Duet3D, and in most cases seems to work very well (I'm the 5th person to try and help in this thread since you posted yesterday). I believe they are starting some form of paid support for commercial customers, but not sure if it is currently up and running, or if it would be suitable for you. As an alternative, I know one of the users on here has his own business in which he offers paid one-on-one support (https://nxt-3d.be/nxt-3d/services). If you need a more personal support, you might try reaching out to him. Again, I would still suggest taking some time to think about and structure your thoughts so that he can help you as quickly and best as he can.

Hope that helps

@zapta said in RRF configuration using object model notation:

@fcwilt, think of all the comments it will save.

Wait, you guys are commenting your gcode?

@sd_matt your tool 0 is currently off (it says under the tool name) so is not selected. Maybe add 'T0' to the very end of your config.

Also, unless you disable it, you will likely need to heat up your tool before it will let you extrude edit: M302 P1 allows cold extrusion

@gnydick I think you're confused between Pressure Advance and Dynamic Acceleration Adjustment.

Pressure advance aims to compensate for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder system which can cause under-extrusion whenever the extrusion rate is increasing, for example at the start of a straight line when the nozzle has to accelerate from zero or near-zero speed, or over extrusion when the extrusion rate is decreasing.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Pressure_advance
It is mostly effective at stopping under/over extrusion blobs at sharp corners. If you want to calibrate this, I'd recommend the steps at the bottom of the wiki page above.

Dynamic acceleration adjustment is used to help ringing/ghosting in your prints by tuning out the frequency you set. I think this is what you want
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M593_Configure_Dynamic_Acceleration_Adjustment

I'm guessing you've already chased after all the mechanical things to aid ringing (belt tension, making sure your pulley mounts/axles are solid, reducing mass on your moving gantries etc). If after all of this, you find you can't get raise your printing accel as much as you want, you can always use your slicer to vary it by feature type (I know PusaSlicer, Cura and IdeaMaker all have this at least). That way, you can set much higher accelerations for infill, but drop it for internal/external perimeters to maintain quality. In Cura & IdeaMaker, you can also do the same with Jerk.

@tenaja That's down to how the firmware interprets the commands:

G1 E1 F5

Will extrude 1mm of filament at 5mm/min (RRF uses mm/min for speeds). As you are only commanding an extruder move, that sets the speed. So with F5, it will take ~12s!

G1 Z0.242 E44 F5

Will extrude 44mm of filament whilst the Z axis moves at a commanded speed of 5mm/min over a distance of 0.242mm. That will take ~3s, and you will be extruding 44mm of filament, so your extruder would be moving at ~15mm/s (that's over 900mm/min so a lot faster than the first one!)

All of this is also bound by what speed limits, accelerations and jerk settings you have for all of the moving axes (X, Y, Z, E etc) in your config, so your actual moves might be a bit slower/take a little longer depending on your settings.

@sirisian-0 maybe the motors just can't go that fast? 2000 steps per mm at 16usteps is quite a lot!

Try dropping the speed, accel and instantaneous speed change (jerk)

In general, those motors are only rated for 0.4A so may not be that suitable for use at high-speed. Have you calculated what your max speed might be for those steppers?

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Inductance

@Nxt-1 I was meaning bolting another aluminium extrusion, either a full 30150 or even just a single 3030 to keep it nice and light. More thinking it might be a lighter weight solution!
One other thing to consider is to do all of the towers slightly differently. That way you'll get some separation of the resonant frequencies so the towers don't interact and further excite each other. I'm guessing you'll get this a bit for free with the concrete though

@o_lampe you have two T parameters in your command. I think the first one should be P0 to apply the settings to Tool 0?

@Piet said in Using bed leveling screws with independent z motors:

For example in an extreme case where one point of the bed is 10mm off. If I were to level that initially using the ABL it would torque the entire Z-axis assembly and would put a lot of strain and resistance on the leadscrews.

Whether you're using manual levelling assistant or auto bed levelling, the process is taking the measurements from probing the bed surface.

I think your concern is that the bed is not level with the z-gantry (e.g. because one of the manual adjustment screws is way off). So you want to get the bed close to level to the z-gantry (and so level with the lead screws) so that they aren't kinked over later. The trouble is the Duet has no idea where the lead screws are as it is still only probing the bed surface. Only exception/caveat is if you are using independent endstops on them as well (and somehow worked out the offset for them all).

One option could be to remove the bed and try probing the z-gantry to get that near level (so the leadscrew are all level) using auto bed levelling. Then put the bed back on and use the manual assistant to get the manual screw right, then use auto levelling again to actually get it all tuned in fine (assuming you didn't with manual). Might work, but probably will end in tears trying to probe aluminium extrusions....

Alternatively, just try making sure your bed is level to your z-gantry when building the printer. Simplest way is to use fixed spacers (i.e. no manual adjustment). Or just a spirit level/your eyes? The lead screws should take a little misalignment. Unless you have a massive bed, if you build your printer 10mm out and don't see it, you're probably gonna have a bunch of other problems in there too...

@fcwilt to change the filament DWC shows as loaded without running the load/unload macros.

@SputnikOC3d I don't think this feature is implemented by default (though I think would be useful!). Reading this part of the documentation:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Filaments#Section_Changing_filaments
It seems you can put an M291 popup in the start of your load/unload macros to solve the issue, but then they'll be run every time. This may work for you, and you might be able to use some conditional gcode/the object model to suppress the M291 in certain states (e.g. printing)?

I think a command to do this would be useful though, similar to how there is one to set a tool to active/standby without running the toolchange macros. Likely just need to be a parameter on the end of the M701 (e.g. P0 to suppress load/unload)

@kuon you'll also want to track the retraction status of each extruder by a global variable so repeated G10's without a G11 don't pull thr filament all the way out!

@MaxGyver the warning will only appear in response to an M307 command. You may get it on power up on a Panel Due if the command to configure the Panel Due comes before the M307 command? But if you are seeing it repeatedly it suggests you have other M307 commands in your files somewhere
My toolchanger used to have them in the tool change files, but I got rid of them as the didn't really do much!

@CNCModeller the one issue you may have there is dealing with multiple retracts. By default the firmware won't react to multiple G10 commands without a G11 in between. It may also get more confusing if you have multiple tools (though not sure that's an issue with your beast!)
You might want to use some global variables to check the retraction status?

I think the post proccessing script to change G10 to G10.1 is probably the easiest way to go with it though. How to do that in S3D, I am not sure...

@bierent glad to hear it one quick suggestion would be to make sure you keep a backup of your config, homing files etc on your PC, just in case it does pop out mid write and mess anything up

@Jered FYI, it might be worth creating a macro called 'motor_settings.g' which contains your default acceleration limits etc. You can then call that in config, and at the and of your homing files etc so you only have one place to change your machine limits. I do this on my printer.
Alternatively you could achieve something similar using global variables but I have not been adventurous enough to try them out yet!

@caygul also share your tpre, tpost and tfree.g files. I have seen some that mess with the pid parameters...

@bierent I had something very similar when I replaced the WiFi module on my Duet WiFi. Wasn't quite sure if it was part of the detent mechanism melted, or something just got distorted with the heat...

Short term solution I found was to simply hold the SD card in place with a bit of electrical tape. This actually worked pretty well and I had no real problems with it.

After a few months though I plucked up the courage to replace the SD slot too. I did this using a normal hand soldering iron, taking out the pins one by one and eventually the four feet holding the main body down. You do have to be quite careful not to pull the pads of the board though. This was pretty destructive to the SD slot, so I never managed to find what the root cause of my problem was.... I then hand soldered the new one back on and it's been working fine for a few years

I think when using hot air on the board, best practice is to use kapton tape as a heat shield over the other parts. You can also sit a lump of metal (e.g. a coin) on top of them to add more thermal mass so they done heat up as much. I'd recommend the kaption tape when hand solder too as it will stop any stray blogs falling elsewhere on the board.

@tinchus post your homing files and start code from a print. Likely something there is causing your issue

@bernardomattiucci but if you are using PWM or bang-bang control it is already only turning the bed 'on' for part of the time. That's why the temperature doesn't continue to rise!

@tratoon the typical way you would do this is set up the max endstop as a trigger, not an endstop. You can then set up whatever behaviour you want when the switch is tripped.
The docs here should help:
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Tuning/Triggers

As Nightowl says though you may be best off trying to address the root cause of the crashes (wrong configuration, missed steps etc), but this will give you a bit of a failsafe