@sd_matt your tool 0 is currently off (it says under the tool name) so is not selected. Maybe add 'T0' to the very end of your config.

Also, unless you disable it, you will likely need to heat up your tool before it will let you extrude edit: M302 P1 allows cold extrusion

@tenaja That's down to how the firmware interprets the commands:

G1 E1 F5

Will extrude 1mm of filament at 5mm/min (RRF uses mm/min for speeds). As you are only commanding an extruder move, that sets the speed. So with F5, it will take ~12s!

G1 Z0.242 E44 F5

Will extrude 44mm of filament whilst the Z axis moves at a commanded speed of 5mm/min over a distance of 0.242mm. That will take ~3s, and you will be extruding 44mm of filament, so your extruder would be moving at ~15mm/s (that's over 900mm/min so a lot faster than the first one!)

All of this is also bound by what speed limits, accelerations and jerk settings you have for all of the moving axes (X, Y, Z, E etc) in your config, so your actual moves might be a bit slower/take a little longer depending on your settings.

@gnydick I think you're confused between Pressure Advance and Dynamic Acceleration Adjustment.

Pressure advance aims to compensate for the elasticity of the filament and the extruder system which can cause under-extrusion whenever the extrusion rate is increasing, for example at the start of a straight line when the nozzle has to accelerate from zero or near-zero speed, or over extrusion when the extrusion rate is decreasing.
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Pressure_advance
It is mostly effective at stopping under/over extrusion blobs at sharp corners. If you want to calibrate this, I'd recommend the steps at the bottom of the wiki page above.

Dynamic acceleration adjustment is used to help ringing/ghosting in your prints by tuning out the frequency you set. I think this is what you want
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M593_Configure_Dynamic_Acceleration_Adjustment

I'm guessing you've already chased after all the mechanical things to aid ringing (belt tension, making sure your pulley mounts/axles are solid, reducing mass on your moving gantries etc). If after all of this, you find you can't get raise your printing accel as much as you want, you can always use your slicer to vary it by feature type (I know PusaSlicer, Cura and IdeaMaker all have this at least). That way, you can set much higher accelerations for infill, but drop it for internal/external perimeters to maintain quality. In Cura & IdeaMaker, you can also do the same with Jerk.

@zapta said in RRF configuration using object model notation:

@fcwilt, think of all the comments it will save.

Wait, you guys are commenting your gcode?

@sirisian-0 maybe the motors just can't go that fast? 2000 steps per mm at 16usteps is quite a lot!

Try dropping the speed, accel and instantaneous speed change (jerk)

In general, those motors are only rated for 0.4A so may not be that suitable for use at high-speed. Have you calculated what your max speed might be for those steppers?

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors#Section_Inductance

@exerqtor I notice that you are running a bunch of macros I'm there to reduce the motor currents etc. Could it be that you're reducing the motor currents too much so that one of the motors can't actually turn? Might be one of them has a little more friction now there's three of them in your system.

To try and test it and narrow down your issue, I would go for as simple a script as possible. Maybe even manually send the commands and see what happens?

@peirof I think OP's bed.g is much more complex than most because he has to pick up his 'klicky' probe and is doing a few other things. It can be as simple as 3 lines to probe the bed in three places Read the docs link that the others have posted and you should be okay

@d0minik96 Looking at your config.g posted above, line 10:

M669 K2                                        ; select CoreXY mode

That command sets your printer in 'Core XZ' configuration (like core xy, but with x&z). That's why you're getting the weird movement.

I believe the artillery genius is a cartesian (like a prusa?) so you want:

M669 K0 ; set cartesian mode

For ref: https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M669_Set_kinematics_type_and_kinematics_parameters

@fcwilt to change the filament DWC shows as loaded without running the load/unload macros.

@SputnikOC3d I don't think this feature is implemented by default (though I think would be useful!). Reading this part of the documentation:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Filaments#Section_Changing_filaments
It seems you can put an M291 popup in the start of your load/unload macros to solve the issue, but then they'll be run every time. This may work for you, and you might be able to use some conditional gcode/the object model to suppress the M291 in certain states (e.g. printing)?

I think a command to do this would be useful though, similar to how there is one to set a tool to active/standby without running the toolchange macros. Likely just need to be a parameter on the end of the M701 (e.g. P0 to suppress load/unload)

@Piet said in Using bed leveling screws with independent z motors:

For example in an extreme case where one point of the bed is 10mm off. If I were to level that initially using the ABL it would torque the entire Z-axis assembly and would put a lot of strain and resistance on the leadscrews.

Whether you're using manual levelling assistant or auto bed levelling, the process is taking the measurements from probing the bed surface.

I think your concern is that the bed is not level with the z-gantry (e.g. because one of the manual adjustment screws is way off). So you want to get the bed close to level to the z-gantry (and so level with the lead screws) so that they aren't kinked over later. The trouble is the Duet has no idea where the lead screws are as it is still only probing the bed surface. Only exception/caveat is if you are using independent endstops on them as well (and somehow worked out the offset for them all).

One option could be to remove the bed and try probing the z-gantry to get that near level (so the leadscrew are all level) using auto bed levelling. Then put the bed back on and use the manual assistant to get the manual screw right, then use auto levelling again to actually get it all tuned in fine (assuming you didn't with manual). Might work, but probably will end in tears trying to probe aluminium extrusions....

Alternatively, just try making sure your bed is level to your z-gantry when building the printer. Simplest way is to use fixed spacers (i.e. no manual adjustment). Or just a spirit level/your eyes? The lead screws should take a little misalignment. Unless you have a massive bed, if you build your printer 10mm out and don't see it, you're probably gonna have a bunch of other problems in there too...

@kb58 it's steps per mm, so if it's not moving far enough, he need to increase the M92 value

@gibsea402 This is the section of your homeall that you want to change

G1 H1 Z-395 F360        ; move Z down stopping at the endstop
G90                     ; absolute positioning
G92 Z0                  ; set Z position to axis minimum (you may want to adjust this)

It is using a G1 H1 homing move for Z (i.e. using an endstop which you don't have!), rather than a probing move using the BLTouch. For this you would want to use a G30 probing move (https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/G30)

So, I would suggest replacing those three lines of code with:

G90    ; set absolute positioning
G1 X150 Y150 F1800   ; move quickly to bed centre - May need to change the X/Y values to suit your printer size
G30  ; probe with BLTouch

You'll see that these commands are in @Arnold_R_Clark's homeall file (though he also has a bunch of extra stuff which may confuse things).

@gibsea402 sounds like your issue is occurring when you are homing? Please post your homing files (home, homey, homez and homeall) so we can see what's going on

PS, if you use the code snippet feature on the forum, it makes your code files easier for people to read. It's the </> button at the top (near bold/italic).

@thedragonlord OP has a Hemera, not a BMG, so no plastic gears
Given how long I've been running my BMGs at this level (plus I previously had them as bowden with big motors, high accelerations and big PA), I doubt they'd fail at 4000mm/s^2! They're more sturdy than you think

@thedragonlord 4000mm/s^2 is reasonably high, but should be no problem unless you have a low power extruder motor (like a pancake motor). A hemera should be able to do 4000mm/s^2 easy.

I run my little 25mm pancake extruders at 1600mm/s^2, no sweat and could probably go higher

OP had his set at 20mm/s^2 which would be way too low and start impacting xy motion as the extruder wouldn't be able to keep up

@merlin246 the stuttering is because your z axis can't keep up with the xy movement. Try increasing your z jerk and accel a little

@skhotso well the increase in acceleration between them is quite high, and the top speed is also higher. My guess is that some part of your z axis has some extra friction (rods not straight/parallel, gunk on the leadscrew etc). Then the motors don't quite have enough torque to accelerate at the increased rate with the added friction on top. Might also be that they lose a bit of torque when they get hot?

I'd probably just drop the acceleration values down and keep testing til you find the limit, then set your config to be 20% lower than that.

Do you use Z-hop on retraction? The extra z movements on that might be causing the issue as they tend to be longer (so higher top speed) than layer changes

@p8blr might also be worth checking your infill overlap percentage in the slicer (note that you may need to adjust this when you change pressure advance)

@exerqtor I notice that you are running a bunch of macros I'm there to reduce the motor currents etc. Could it be that you're reducing the motor currents too much so that one of the motors can't actually turn? Might be one of them has a little more friction now there's three of them in your system.

To try and test it and narrow down your issue, I would go for as simple a script as possible. Maybe even manually send the commands and see what happens?

@peirof I think OP's bed.g is much more complex than most because he has to pick up his 'klicky' probe and is doing a few other things. It can be as simple as 3 lines to probe the bed in three places Read the docs link that the others have posted and you should be okay

@tricep-terry I get this on my Duet WiFi when I shut off the 24V supply, but leave the 5V on (I have an external 5V PSU). My only guess is that the sudden drop in voltage triggers the warning to be flagged, but as it's only temporary it doesn't get repeated. I think I asked about it on the Forum a couple of years ago and the consensus was that it wasn't an issue, and that it was probably not possible for RRF to reliably suppress the warnings without causing other issues, or taking a lot of time/effort.

My printer has been running like this for a few years and no problems, so I doubt anything to worry about

@tomasro 2000C on your thermistors indicates a short. I might be wrong, but wouldn't your endstops being triggered also imply a short, and same for the filament sensor?
The driver over temp warning might also be a red herring - I've seen that happen when I've shut off the 24V on my printer (whilst still keeping an external 5V supply so the processor and DWC stay up). I think the sudden voltage drop triggers something in the drivers/comms. So it could be a voltage/short issue causing it...

I'd start checking some things in the wiring. Maybe try unplugging everything from the board and see what DWC reports? Also try (carefully!) measuring the 3.3v and 5v rails to check if they're okay and that the grounds are not floating etc.

Looking at your config, it seems these issues are across both the Duet and Duex?

Beyond those ideas, you might need @dc42 's help...