Capricorn PTFE Tubing XS- Low Friction
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I don't kind of get this 0.9 degree stepper on a Titan thing. I know E3D are selling them and it seems they have the motor made especially for them. But the steps per mm for a Titan with a standard 1.8 degree stepper are a tad over 400 which means that a 0.9 degree stepper will want over 800. Why would one need that sort of resolution? Or is there some other reason for having a 0.9 degree stepper motor on a geared extruder?
At 0.15mm filament width and 0.05mm layer height, 1mm of print length is 0.0075mm^3 of polymer.
At 800 steps/mm, one step = 0.003mm^3 of polymer. So the benefit really is in very small extrusion widths/layer heights.
Good to know, thank you
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Yes. So when I have a nozzle that can print about 2 hairs breadth wide and 3/4 of a hairs breadth tall I might need the extra resolution. Can't see me running out to buy a nozzle that size any time soon.
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Ian, check this out:
http://e3d-online.com/High-Res-015-NozzlesImagine the time it would take to fill your build area with one of those!
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If my wife ever gets into 3d printing jewelry i might pick one of those up lol
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On one machine I have a flex3drive which is geared 40:1 and my esteps/mm is 3600. Does it manifestly improve the prints compared to titan with 1.8 degree motor - no. There are other benefits obviously.
Might a 0.9 deg motor be beneficial with 0.15mm nozzle? Yes certainly with low geared/ungeared extruders, but these are rapidly falling out of fashion.
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On one machine I have a flex3drive which is geared 40:1 and my esteps/mm is 3600. Does it manifestly improve the prints compared to titan with 1.8 degree motor - no. There are other benefits obviously.
Might a 0.9 deg motor be beneficial with 0.15mm nozzle? Yes certainly with low geared/ungeared extruders, but these are rapidly falling out of fashion.
I am going to check these out, just viewed the webpage. I like what I see so far but I wonder what teaming one of these up with a titan aero would do
https://flex3drive.com/flex3drive/f3d-dda/ -
Ian, check this out:
http://e3d-online.com/High-Res-015-NozzlesImagine the time it would take to fill your build area with one of those!
Yes that would be like me watering my garden with a hypodermic needle on the end of my hose pipe.
So how do you prevent blockages? On a nozzle that small I reckon you'd need to have the printer installed in a clean room, fed with filtered air at just above atmospheric pressure, enter via an air lock, wearing a one piece paper overall, a hair net and surgical mask.
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Ian, check this out:
http://e3d-online.com/High-Res-015-NozzlesImagine the time it would take to fill your build area with one of those!
Yes that would be like me watering my garden with a hypodermic needle on the end of my hose pipe.
So how do you prevent blockages? On a nozzle that small I reckon you'd need to have the printer installed in a clean room, fed with filtered air at just above atmospheric pressure, enter via an air lock, wearing a one piece paper overall, a hair net and surgical mask.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2119644
that would do the trick and using only the recommended filaments for that nozzle
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Yes recommended to have some felt or something similar to clean the filament.
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that particular enclosure uses a PTFE tube all the way to the extruder so the filament never gets exposed accept when loading of coarse but yeah no reason a felt coupler couldnt be integrated right before it enters into the PTFE
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I'd missed this thread before, but just wanted to add that I switched to Capricorn PTFE for my bowden a few months ago, and it was a drastic improvement. The only issue I've had with it was a cheap spool of filament that jammed… the filament was > 1.78mm in spots. Outside of that bad roll, it's been awesome. I highly recommend i t.
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and i thought printing the e3d ptfe clip was rough LOL that is microscopic… but is it really higher res? eventually would like to be able to print gears so accuracy is important to me but that seems a bit much for my needs not to mention print times...ugh :).
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I'd missed this thread before, but just wanted to add that I switched to Capricorn PTFE for my bowden a few months ago, and it was a drastic improvement. The only issue I've had with it was a cheap spool of filament that jammed… the filament was > 1.78mm in spots. Outside of that bad roll, it's been awesome. I highly recommend i t.
Did you lower all your retraction settings? I found that i needed to lower retraction down quite a lot after the upgrade as i quickly jammed and needed to perform a cold pull with nylon to clear everything.
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and i thought printing the e3d ptfe clip was rough LOL that is microscopic… but is it really higher res? eventually would like to be able to print gears so accuracy is important to me but that seems a bit much for my needs not to mention print times...ugh :).
you should be able to do gears just fine with .35 or .4 nozzle if you're calibrated well.
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I'm glad I found this thread. I just ordered some of that Capricorn XS tubing from Filastruder. I've been trying to reduce the problems I get with corner blobbing and blobbing at layer line ends due to bowden system pressure. I've been using the pressure advance feature, and with the settings I've got so far it's been helping, but hasn't eliminated it.
If this Capricorn reduces the filament compression (more like kinking than strict compression, but you know what I mean) that should help a lot more. This bowden system pressure is the one thing I really don't like about my printer as compared to my direct extruding Di3. Other than this my D-bot is better than my Di3 in every way.
Btw, I have a little experience looking at extrusion "pulsing" quality when changing microstepping. When I increased the microstepping I was using on my extruder I saw an improvement in the consistency of the extruded line widths. It's tiny, but you can actually see it pretty clearly on the surface of top layers. There are little "segments" if you will due to extruder stepping, and the size and distance between segments was clearly reduced as I upped the microstepping. I'll see if I can find the photo I had before that showed this.
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Here's an image showing two printed gears (to be used with my belted extruder). The one on top was printed with my extruder stepper set to use 32x microstepping. The one on the bottom had the extruder using 16x microstepping.
If you look carefully you can see the "step pulsing" artifacts are smaller and closer together in the 32x microstepping print as compared to the 16x print.
A geared vs. non-geared extruder should show similar differences due to step pulsing. If anyone's confused, I'm calling it "step pulsing" when the pressure in the extruder system is increased suddenly and then decays a little as plastic flow reduces the pressure due to the discrete steps nature of the stepper motors we use. The closer together the steps are, the lower the difference will be between the highest and lowest pressure (and hence flowrate) of the system as it prints, as well as the frequency of these pressure pulses. The geared extruders have the same effect, ie: more pulses per mm of printed line, at lower pressure difference per pulse.
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I'd missed this thread before, but just wanted to add that I switched to Capricorn PTFE for my bowden a few months ago, and it was a drastic improvement. The only issue I've had with it was a cheap spool of filament that jammed… the filament was > 1.78mm in spots. Outside of that bad roll, it's been awesome. I highly recommend i t.
Did you lower all your retraction settings? I found that i needed to lower retraction down quite a lot after the upgrade as i quickly jammed and needed to perform a cold pull with nylon to clear everything.
Yes, I went from 3.5mm retraction and still some fine stringing, to 1.3mm retraction, zero stringing. No other change than the Capricorn bowden tubing, cut to the same length. (E3dv6 & titan combo)
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Yes i experienced the same result with setting extruder to 32… the layer lines on the side become pretty difficult to see without the right reflection or close up photo at 32
currently back at 16 just until i dial in my top speed then ill try switching back to 32
I plan on testing a 0.9 degree motor for my extruder as well.
you should try printing with Igus Iglidur 180 PF filament... it is expensive but incredibly precise, it can print straight up in the air and 90 degree overhangs without issue.... with this precision comes tell tail signs of extruder issues which has helped me fine tune even further.
That and it makes for some seriously sharp gears and bushings.
I will be doing a review in a new thread soon
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you should try printing with Igus Iglidur 180 PF filament… it is expensive but incredibly precise, it can print straight up in the air and 90 degree overhangs without issue.... with this precision comes tell tail signs of extruder issues which has helped me fine tune even further.
I agree, the 180 filament prints really well. I've tried it and the 170. Now they've come out with the 260 and something else, I think 210. I'm going to get a sample of the 260 and try it out. It's supposed to be better than the 170 in terms of friction and wear.
If you like the Igus filament, if you have a D-bot you should check out my Igus filament bearing pads on Thingiverse. Basically I replaced all 12 mini V-slot wheels that ride in the V-slot grooves of the D-bot's X/Y motion system with carrier blocks that fit in the same space as the wheels did, and have Igus filament pads that actually ride on and in the grooves of the v-slot. This allows a much tighter installation with zero or at least undetectable by hand slop in the fit and alignment of the X gantry and the print carriage. I'm really pleased with it so far. I've been printing entirely without wheels on my X/Y for about 6 or 7 weeks now. I'm currently working on a solution to replace the wheels on the Z axis with Igus pads as well.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2373538
I've tried the 180 and 170 filament with these pads. The 180 printed easier, but I believe the 170 had less friction and is supposed to wear better. I'd really like to try out the 260 filament.
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Yeah getting a roll of 260 to compare was on my list, they say its the equivilent of their injection molded parts but we'll see… i actually prefer the 180 over the preloaded igus bearings. When i printed the lm8uu style bearings in 180 i printed them tight and slowly reamed them out with a 8mm drill bit just until they would slowly slide up and down while i flipped the x shaft end for end.
Then i took the bearing with my hand and moved it fast up and down.... the slight friction actually is a friend of the 180.... once they are warmed i again tipped it end for end and the speed in which these light bearings move is easily double that of the preloaded igus bearings which weigh a lot more because of their aluminum housing. All while maintaining tight tolerences compared to the sloppy igus bearings.
When warmed the bearing actually acts like its running on an air hockey table.
I have hopes that the 260 will be similar but with better strength but its up there with 170 in regards to printability.
I wish they had more data on their website comparing the differences.
That is awesome about printing without wheels.... I printed every moving part with 180 yesterday.... just have to get it all installed now. So far just my X carriage is using 180 bearings
If you know where to buy 260 in the US please let me know... I can only find 180 and 170
