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    Issue with HE heater

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    • Morane_3803undefined
      Morane_3803 @Phaedrux
      last edited by

      @Phaedrux
      the temperature starts normal up to the setted 220°C.
      It overshots the 220 up to 227 / 228. Then it settles to around +/- 3°.
      After start printing the temperature starts to move extremly.
      By means first within down to arround 215 up to 223.
      But suddenly it drops and drops down to finally 203.
      Where at 205 the systems pauses itself and stop printing.
      No I'm not using a nozzle sock. Earlier I did use some!

      As I mentioned above, the first prints after upgrading to RRF3.2 went well.
      The problem became active during this long print!

      Strange anyway.

      jay_s_ukundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • jay_s_ukundefined
        jay_s_uk @Morane_3803
        last edited by

        @Morane_3803 I guess its when the fan comes on and the firmware is struggling to compensate for the temperature swing.
        Have you PID tuned the hotend as a tool rather than a hotend? E.g. M303 T0 S220
        Also its best to fit a sock to protect from temperature changes caused by the fan

        Owns various duet boards and is the main wiki maintainer for the Teamgloomy LPC/STM32 port of RRF. Assume I'm running whatever the latest beta/stable build is

        Morane_3803undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • jens55undefined
          jens55
          last edited by

          I know you said that you already replaced the thermistor but in my experience, when the temperature fluctuates rapidly (as in instantaneous), it is either a bad contact in the thermistor line someplace or more often a dud thermistor.
          If the temperature drops gradually over the period of say 30 seconds or more then you can have a heater or heater wire problem.
          This happened to me just a few days ago and although the screw connections to the heater wire on the Duet were what I considered 'tight', i tightened them just a tad more and it solved all my problems. I suspect that I had some oxidation.
          The other issue I have seen was when I used regular dupont type connectors when extending the heater wires. The connections heated up causing a higher resistance with time and a lower power output for the heater over time. I ended up going with a 24V power supply to cut the current in half.

          Morane_3803undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • Phaedruxundefined
            Phaedrux Moderator @Morane_3803
            last edited by

            @Morane_3803 said in Issue with HE heater:

            WiFi firmware version 1.23

            I think you've missed updating the wifi firmware.

            Upload this full zip file, as is, to the system tab. That should take care of everything that needs updating.

            https://github.com/Duet3D/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/3.2.2/Duet2and3Firmware-3.2.2.zip

            I think @jay_s_uk is on to something with tuning the hotend heater as a tool to take the fan into account.

            Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

            Morane_3803undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • Morane_3803undefined
              Morane_3803 @jay_s_uk
              last edited by

              @jay_s_uk
              The testpart is that big that the cooling fan did not even start yet.
              It will turn on beginning at layer 2
              M303 T0 220 i will try. I believe it was M303 H1 220 I've tried!

              Ok and the socks I have and will put it on again!
              I will report again.
              Thanks a lot

              1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
              • Morane_3803undefined
                Morane_3803 @jens55
                last edited by

                @jens55
                Hi Jens55
                this is an interesting view I did not consider yet. Even though I changed the cabling from H1 to H2 and vise versa.
                I'm using 24V power supply.
                I will check those kind off possible errors and report again.
                Thanks a lot

                1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Morane_3803undefined
                  Morane_3803 @Phaedrux
                  last edited by

                  @Phaedrux
                  Hi Phaedrux
                  just did uploaded the ZIP-file. I will try tomorrow evening and will report again.
                  Thanks a lot and have a great evening!
                  Martin

                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • theruttmeisterundefined
                    theruttmeister
                    last edited by

                    If you have trouble getting the PID dialed in, you can always change how sensitive the thermal error check is.
                    (If saw, you have a really low mass hot-end and you keep meaning to do the auto-tune propperly but squirrel........)

                    Sorry, where was I?

                    Oh yes.

                    M570

                    If you know that your fan on tool 0 causes a 15 degree drop that only lasts 20 seconds (and isn't causing printing issues) you might put in:

                    M570 H0 P30 S20

                    IMHO the default error parameters are quite strict... but I can't say that's bad, I know people will shoot video of the burning printer before they try and put out the fire 😉

                    Isolate, substitute, verify.

                    1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • Morane_3803undefined
                      Morane_3803
                      last edited by

                      Hi there
                      Today I've tried all the suggestions you gave...but no changes at all 😠
                      But you wouldn't believe what I found!
                      Jens55 wrote about the cable issue. So finally I tried another file to print, a much smaller part as the other
                      which I first had that issue.
                      All printing went well. PID on H1 worked just perfect.
                      As a conclusion I believe there is a problem with the heater cable within the nice cable drag chain.
                      Most probably the cable is somewhere broken or overstretched, whatever!
                      So tomorrow evening I change this cable and give it another trial.
                      Stand by.
                      Anyway guys thanks a lot for your help. One way or the other, I've lerned a lot.
                      Regards Martin

                      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
                      • Morane_3803undefined
                        Morane_3803
                        last edited by

                        Hi
                        Today I replaced this faulty cable and everything works fine!
                        It is unbelievable but a fact!
                        Thanks to all of you guys for the support.
                        Have a great time!
                        Regards Martin

                        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 1
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