Issues with my Duet Maestro or bad config?
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Thanks all for your help. Pretty sure i have this tracked down to being a problem with the extruder, I only have on hand the bondtech BMG clone that came with the printer, and a titan clone i have kicking around for ages. I have changed to the titan and managed to get a good print at .2mm however at .1mm it just ate through the filament and underextruded. I am going to put this on pause for a while, I have ordered a genuine bondtech LGX, however with it being a brand new product its going to be a few weeks before its here I will report back then. Until then I'm just going to finish sorting other parts of the printer like building side panels and a top cover.
One thing I have got working is I'm running a Raspberry Pi in the electronics enclosure to make the maestro wifi, I have a step down converter going from a 24V line to 5V to power the Pi when the printer is switched on. Then I'm bridging the Pi wifi adapter across to the ethernet port and have a cable going from there into the maestro. I have not been kicking around the forums long enough to see if anyone has posted a guide on how to do this already but i'm happy to write one if there is any interest.
Joe
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Its here!
Much earlier than expected. Will let you know how it goes. -
So first things first, this thing is tiny so I decided to quickly make a direct drive mount for it in fusion, I did this for a few reasons, one like I said its tiny so not as much of an issue in having a bmg + full size stepper hanging off the top of the hot end, but mainly I did it because being able to print more materials + less print issues are more important to me than the speed increase I could get with a lighter hotend assembly, I never print that fast anyway because I like the printer to be quiet.
With that said it is honestly by far the best extruder i have used. It has fixed the weird extrusion issue i was having (although direct drive mounting the BMG clone would probably have helped with that) but mainly the tension lever is just so much easier than all other extruders i have used. Click it over to the left and the filament slides perfectly in and out, first click to the right for PLA and you are away. No faffing with tension screws.
first print off had some retraction issues. (printed in fillamentum PLA extrafill - Traffic White
I used Bondtechs recommended retaction settings or .4 mm at 35mm/s for direct drive and it was just not enough. Although to be fair to bondtech you could only really call my setup sudo direct drive as it has about a 60mm ptfe tube between the extruder and hotend.Second print was better, .7mm retraction at 35mm/s. There were the odd strings still not visible in the image. Now the stringing was gone i did start to suspect the part cooling was not enough though, you can see the top or the doorway is not great. (printed in fillamentum PLA extrafill - Gold Happens
So i printed a Cali Cat because i have always found it to be a good indicator of part cooling ability and it pretty much confirmed my suspicion that the part cooling was not up to the job. Which is a shame really because the part cooling fans which came with the printer were by far the quietest I have ever used, which i guess is why they are not moving enough air. I have a really good Sunon blower fan i was using on the previous printer that at full speed is more likely to give you issues with the print being blown off the bed than poor cooling, even though it does sound like a jet engine i will probably swap out for that. (printed in some random PLA sample I was sent I had kicking around)
Next step I'm going to redesign the hotend mount to take a better part cooling fan and try and shorten the filament path between the extruder and hot end as much as possible
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@jbirley said in Issues with my Duet Maestro or bad config?:
my setup sudo direct drive as it has about a 60mm ptfe tube between the extruder and hotend.
can you post a picture of this. i though the hotend was directly connected without the need of a prfe tube at all.
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@Veti Sure.
So the LGX on its own comes with two adapter plates, one to use for bowden and one for direct drive but specifically for the slice engineering hot ends which would require a very short ptfe tube (a few mm to use). However I have a full top end V6 setup with copper block and titanium heatbreak and whatnot so I don't really want to switch, also due to the design on the printer and belt tensioner there is no way at the moment to mount it closer to the hotend which is why im going to have to design my own i think.
They also sell an "LGX for flexibles" kit which turns it into an all in one solution not unlike the E3D Hemera where you replace the adapter bracket with a metal one with a heat sink which takes the heat break, this comes with a slice engineering hotend but is purchased separately.
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i though the whole point of the lgx was to have a filament path as short as possible.
in this configuration there is not much of a difference to the bmg. -
@Veti The LGX is smaller, lighter, has much larger drive wheels and has a much better tensioning system and costs (at least in the UK) basically the same as a BMG, so why not have the newer better one? Also like I said I'm going to redesign the mount to shorten the filament path. I just needed something to get it working as you can see the quality on the printed mount is horrible because obviously it had to be done before the upgrade.
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i got the bmw wind because of the short path. and the its a nice improvement over my previous bmg + v6 setup
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@jbirley
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4757389
If you rework the bracket I would try to integrate the attachment for the belts in an adappter, maybe the link helps a bit. -
@Veti I may grab the flexibles kit at some point especially if i can come up with a way to make it an easy swap. so i can use the v6 for high temp materials with the titanium heatbreak and nozzle X, then swap to the LGX flexibles one for well... flexibles. I don't think it will be too hard with some clever mounting and connectors on all the wires close to the hotend.
@DIY-O-Sphere Cheers, i did see this on thingiverse, i will probably print it to see how things line up, The issue is that on the sapphire plus from the factory everything is designed to hang below the linear rail wilth just enough clearance to pass a ptfe tube through, hence when when i quickly made that mount yesterday i have just mounted the extruder right above the path the tube would normally take.
to more directly mount the V6 i think i'm going to have to lose substantial build volume, either by mounting the whole assembly to one side of the rail and therefore losing build volume in the Y axis, or hanging the whole lot including the extruder below which would lose me a lot of Z height. Its a large-ish printer anyway so i can probably afford to do that without running into build volume issues too often though.
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@jbirley
It depends on how much effort you want to put in.
One way to compensate this could be to mount the bed further forward. That's how I managed it on my Hypercube.
