Issues with my Duet Maestro or bad config?
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@lodger Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't think that can be it, I will double check however if it was out by a factor of four there is no way a model would come out. As it stands the 20mm cubes are coming out at 20mm, if it was moving 1/4 of what it should it would have just been a 5mm tall squashed mess
I will check the other suggestions and get back to you.
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@jbirley I have just noticed you have two drives mapped to Z. My Sapphire Pro only has One lead screw. That may explain why we have so differant steps.
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@JamesM Yes, I have tried both cura and prusa slicers just in case and both were set to relative extrusion and reprap firmware.
@DIY-O-Sphere I did have the extruder in parts to check it over and all seems fine but i will double check to see if the input and output holes are aligned once the current test print is done.
@dc42 the Z mechanism is two leadscrews one on both the left and right edge of the bed, with linear rails. pretty sure they are 2mm pitch. I have the motors running off different drivers each with their own end stop to level the bed left to right, then a bl touch probes the centre to get the z height. They are 1.8 degree 1.7a motors 17HS4401S. As @lodger stated above though this should mean at 1/16 steps (interpolated) with a 2mm pitch they should be 1600 steps/mm right? but I have tried them at that and when i tell the bed to move down 50mm it shoots 200mm down to the bottom of the printer. set at 400 steps/mm it moves the correct amount.
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@jbirley said in Issues with my Duet Maestro or bad config?:
I did have the extruder in parts to check
You can check this very easily.
When the motor is removed, simply push a piece of filament through the extruder (lever closed). You can feel whether it can be pushed through easily. -
@jbirley said in Issues with my Duet Maestro or bad config?:
the Z mechanism is two leadscrews one on both the left and right edge of the bed, with linear rails. pretty sure they are 2mm pitch. I have the motors running off different drivers each with their own end stop to level the bed left to right, then a bl touch probes the centre to get the z height. They are 1.8 degree 1.7a motors 17HS4401S. As @lodger stated above though this should mean at 1/16 steps (interpolated) with a 2mm pitch they should be 1600 steps/mm right? but I have tried them at that and when i tell the bed to move down 50mm it shoots 200mm down to the bottom of the printer. set at 400 steps/mm it moves the correct amount.
Are the leadscrews 2x8, i.e. 2mm pitch but 8mm lead?
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
I think so,
pretty sure they are 2mm pitch, 4 start, 8mm lead. so having double checked that math that means that 400 is correct right?
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@jbirley It does rather look like a Z-banding issue. Can you also post your config.g as it currently stands?
Also, I found what I think is the Marlin configuration for the Sapphire Plus here: https://github.com/le3tspeak/Marlin-2.0.X-MKS-Robin-Nano
Steps per mm: https://github.com/le3tspeak/Marlin-2.0.X-MKS-Robin-Nano/blob/2ffa19960715aa0fd97bf5f8973691eb2fc0012c/Marlin/Configuration.h#L1145
This shows X80, Y80, Z400, E415 which is close enough to your current config (and shows that the Sapphire Pro is Z1600).Motor settings from here onward: https://github.com/le3tspeak/Marlin-2.0.X-MKS-Robin-Nano/blob/2ffa19960715aa0fd97bf5f8973691eb2fc0012c/Marlin/Configuration.h#L1198
Just to sense-check your current settings, this shows:
Max feedrate M203 as X300, Y300, Z10, E50 mm/s
Max Acceleration M201 as X3000, Y3000, Z100, E10000 mm/s^2
Jerk M205 as X15, Y15, Z0.3, E5 mm/sbut also:
Default acceleration M204 P1000 R2000 T1500 mm/s^2
M204 sets max acceleration for printing (P), travel moves(T) and retract (R) (RRF does not use the R value in M204).
Converting these to mm/min, where appropriate, gives:
M203 X18000 Y18000 Z600 E3000 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X3000, Y3000, Z100, E10000 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
either: M205 X15 Y15 Z0.3 E5 : set jerk (mm/s)
or: M566 X900 Y900 Z18 E300 : set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M204 seems to be set to limit acceleration in printing moves (to X1000 Y1000) and travel moves (to X1500 Y1500).I can't find a number for the motor current setting in Marlin, but it seems you have 1.7A motors, so 1200mA should be fine, up to 1450mA. But check all motors are the same.
From your earlier config.g I see a number of things when compared with the above:
M566 X600 Y600 Z60.00 E420.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z360.00 E1500.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z300.00 E10000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)You have jerk set much higher on Z; 60 mm/min vs 18. This could cause motors to lose steps. You have accelerations set much higher on Z; 300 mm/s^2 vs 100. Again, this could cause loss of steps. M204 seems to be set to limit acceleration in printing moves (to X1000 Y1000) and travel moves (to X1500 Y1500), which is much less than the M201 accelerations of X3000 Y3000; if yours is running much faster, it could be causing backlash in X and Y.
Try these settings:
M566 X600 Y600 Z18 E420.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z360.00 E1500.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z100.00 E10000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2) M204 P1000 T1500This is going to drastically reduce the print speed, but I think better replicates the Marlin settings. Better to start slow, get it printing right, then speed it up by changing one thing at a time!
Edit: the settings you pulled off the old board:
Accel : 1000mm/s XY 100mm/s Z
Speeds: 200mm/s XY 4mm/s Z
Jerk: 15mm/s XY 0.4mm/s Z and 5mm/s E... are still closer to the Github values for Z, especially for acceleration (Z100) and jerk (Z0.4mm/s = Z24mm/min), than what you have set in your config.g. Sorry, should have spotted this sooner!
Edited again for readability.
Ian
TronXY X5S with Duet 3 MB6HC and Roto toolboard : Cartesian bed-slinger with Duet 3 Mini 5+ WiFi and 1LC : RRP Fisher Delta v1 with Duet 2 Maestro : Polargraph with Duet 2 WiFi
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@droftarts said in Issues with my Duet Maestro or bad config?:
... are still closer to the Github values for Z, especially for acceleration (Z100) and jerk (Z0.4mm/s = Z24mm/min), than what you have set in your config.g. Sorry, should have spotted this sooner!
Ian
no worries, the config has changed lot since i last posted the whole thing because i keep making changes as people suggest things so the settings were much closer to what you suggested than previously . I have set you suggested settings and will try a test print now
so as it stands the config is as below. note. the motors numbering and directions are all messed up as i have moved the connections around on the board as suggested above and have not moved them back yet.
; Configuration file for Duet Maestro (firmware version 3) ; executed by the firmware on start-up ; General preferences G90 ; send absolute coordinates... M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves M550 P"Derek" ; set printer name M669 K1 ; select CoreXY mode ; Network M552 P192.168.2.12 S1 ; enable network and set IP address M553 P255.255.255.0 ; set netmask M554 P192.168.2.1 ; set gateway M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet ; Drives M569 P0 S1 V1 ; physical drive 0 goes backwards M569 P1 S1 D2 ; physical drive 1 goes forwards M569 P2 S0 V1 ; physical drive 2 goes forwards M569 P3 S0 V1 ; physical drive 3 goes forwards M569 P4 S1 V1 ; physical drive 4 goes forwards M584 X2 Y3 Z0:4 E1 ; set drive mapping M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400 E430 ; set steps per mm M566 P1 X600 Y600 Z18.00 E420 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min) M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z360.00 E1500.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min) M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z100.00 E10000.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2) M204 p1000 T1500 M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout ; Axis Limits M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima M208 X300 Y300 Z350 S0 ; set axis maxima ; Endstops M574 X1 S1 P"!xstop" ; configure active-low endstop for low end on X via pin xstop M574 Y2 S1 P"!ystop" ; configure active-low endstop for low end on Y via pin ystop M574 Z1 S1 P"!zstop+!e1stop" ; configure active-low endstop for low end on Z via pin zstop ; Z-Probe M950 S0 C"zprobe.mod" ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch M558 P9 C"^zprobe.in" H5 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds G31 P500 X0 Y-42.8 Z1.1 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height M557 X50:250 Y50:250 S50 ; define mesh grid ; Heaters M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0 ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0 M307 H0 R0.175 C745.8 D3.56 S1.00 M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0 M143 H0 S120 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C0.0000000706 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1 M307 H1 R1.941 C309.177:309.177 D6.72 S1.00 B0 M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C ; Fans M950 F0 C"fan0" ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency M106 P0 S1.0 H1 T45 ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned on M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency M106 P1 S0 H-1 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned off M950 F2 C"fan2" Q500 ; create fan 2 on pin fan2 and set its frequency M106 P2 S0 H-1 ; set fan 2 value. Thermostatic control is turned off ; Tools M563 P0 S"Hot End" D0 H1 F1:2 ; define tool 0 G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0CHowever i have made some good progress with checking the extruder as @lodger and @DIY-O-Sphere suggested, the filament path was fine however the grub screw holding the hobbed gear to the motor shaft was loose enough to allow it to move side to side, but not so loose it could come off the flat part of the shaft, i have sorted this now and the first print off is much better. I think unfortunately Im fighting against multiple issues which is making it hard to track down and a much more iterative process, but i do feel like Im making process at least this morning.
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Thanks all for your help. Pretty sure i have this tracked down to being a problem with the extruder, I only have on hand the bondtech BMG clone that came with the printer, and a titan clone i have kicking around for ages. I have changed to the titan and managed to get a good print at .2mm however at .1mm it just ate through the filament and underextruded. I am going to put this on pause for a while, I have ordered a genuine bondtech LGX, however with it being a brand new product its going to be a few weeks before its here I will report back then. Until then I'm just going to finish sorting other parts of the printer like building side panels and a top cover.
One thing I have got working is I'm running a Raspberry Pi in the electronics enclosure to make the maestro wifi, I have a step down converter going from a 24V line to 5V to power the Pi when the printer is switched on. Then I'm bridging the Pi wifi adapter across to the ethernet port and have a cable going from there into the maestro. I have not been kicking around the forums long enough to see if anyone has posted a guide on how to do this already but i'm happy to write one if there is any interest.
Joe
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Its here!
Much earlier than expected. Will let you know how it goes. -
So first things first, this thing is tiny so I decided to quickly make a direct drive mount for it in fusion, I did this for a few reasons, one like I said its tiny so not as much of an issue in having a bmg + full size stepper hanging off the top of the hot end, but mainly I did it because being able to print more materials + less print issues are more important to me than the speed increase I could get with a lighter hotend assembly, I never print that fast anyway because I like the printer to be quiet.
With that said it is honestly by far the best extruder i have used. It has fixed the weird extrusion issue i was having (although direct drive mounting the BMG clone would probably have helped with that) but mainly the tension lever is just so much easier than all other extruders i have used. Click it over to the left and the filament slides perfectly in and out, first click to the right for PLA and you are away. No faffing with tension screws.
first print off had some retraction issues. (printed in fillamentum PLA extrafill - Traffic White
I used Bondtechs recommended retaction settings or .4 mm at 35mm/s for direct drive and it was just not enough. Although to be fair to bondtech you could only really call my setup sudo direct drive as it has about a 60mm ptfe tube between the extruder and hotend.Second print was better, .7mm retraction at 35mm/s. There were the odd strings still not visible in the image. Now the stringing was gone i did start to suspect the part cooling was not enough though, you can see the top or the doorway is not great. (printed in fillamentum PLA extrafill - Gold Happens
So i printed a Cali Cat because i have always found it to be a good indicator of part cooling ability and it pretty much confirmed my suspicion that the part cooling was not up to the job. Which is a shame really because the part cooling fans which came with the printer were by far the quietest I have ever used, which i guess is why they are not moving enough air. I have a really good Sunon blower fan i was using on the previous printer that at full speed is more likely to give you issues with the print being blown off the bed than poor cooling, even though it does sound like a jet engine i will probably swap out for that. (printed in some random PLA sample I was sent I had kicking around)
Next step I'm going to redesign the hotend mount to take a better part cooling fan and try and shorten the filament path between the extruder and hot end as much as possible
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@jbirley said in Issues with my Duet Maestro or bad config?:
my setup sudo direct drive as it has about a 60mm ptfe tube between the extruder and hotend.
can you post a picture of this. i though the hotend was directly connected without the need of a prfe tube at all.
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@Veti Sure.
So the LGX on its own comes with two adapter plates, one to use for bowden and one for direct drive but specifically for the slice engineering hot ends which would require a very short ptfe tube (a few mm to use). However I have a full top end V6 setup with copper block and titanium heatbreak and whatnot so I don't really want to switch, also due to the design on the printer and belt tensioner there is no way at the moment to mount it closer to the hotend which is why im going to have to design my own i think.
They also sell an "LGX for flexibles" kit which turns it into an all in one solution not unlike the E3D Hemera where you replace the adapter bracket with a metal one with a heat sink which takes the heat break, this comes with a slice engineering hotend but is purchased separately.
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i though the whole point of the lgx was to have a filament path as short as possible.
in this configuration there is not much of a difference to the bmg. -
@Veti The LGX is smaller, lighter, has much larger drive wheels and has a much better tensioning system and costs (at least in the UK) basically the same as a BMG, so why not have the newer better one? Also like I said I'm going to redesign the mount to shorten the filament path. I just needed something to get it working as you can see the quality on the printed mount is horrible because obviously it had to be done before the upgrade.
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i got the bmw wind because of the short path. and the its a nice improvement over my previous bmg + v6 setup
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@jbirley
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4757389
If you rework the bracket I would try to integrate the attachment for the belts in an adappter, maybe the link helps a bit. -
@Veti I may grab the flexibles kit at some point especially if i can come up with a way to make it an easy swap. so i can use the v6 for high temp materials with the titanium heatbreak and nozzle X, then swap to the LGX flexibles one for well... flexibles. I don't think it will be too hard with some clever mounting and connectors on all the wires close to the hotend.
@DIY-O-Sphere Cheers, i did see this on thingiverse, i will probably print it to see how things line up, The issue is that on the sapphire plus from the factory everything is designed to hang below the linear rail wilth just enough clearance to pass a ptfe tube through, hence when when i quickly made that mount yesterday i have just mounted the extruder right above the path the tube would normally take.
to more directly mount the V6 i think i'm going to have to lose substantial build volume, either by mounting the whole assembly to one side of the rail and therefore losing build volume in the Y axis, or hanging the whole lot including the extruder below which would lose me a lot of Z height. Its a large-ish printer anyway so i can probably afford to do that without running into build volume issues too often though.
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@jbirley
It depends on how much effort you want to put in.
One way to compensate this could be to mount the bed further forward. That's how I managed it on my Hypercube.
