Thanks all for your help. Pretty sure i have this tracked down to being a problem with the extruder, I only have on hand the bondtech BMG clone that came with the printer, and a titan clone i have kicking around for ages. I have changed to the titan and managed to get a good print at .2mm however at .1mm it just ate through the filament and underextruded. I am going to put this on pause for a while, I have ordered a genuine bondtech LGX, however with it being a brand new product its going to be a few weeks before its here I will report back then. Until then I'm just going to finish sorting other parts of the printer like building side panels and a top cover.

One thing I have got working is I'm running a Raspberry Pi in the electronics enclosure to make the maestro wifi, I have a step down converter going from a 24V line to 5V to power the Pi when the printer is switched on. Then I'm bridging the Pi wifi adapter across to the ethernet port and have a cable going from there into the maestro. I have not been kicking around the forums long enough to see if anyone has posted a guide on how to do this already but i'm happy to write one if there is any interest.

Joe

Its here!

Much earlier than expected. Will let you know how it goes.

First off thanks all for any help and input so far, even if I'm not getting anywhere i appreciate people giving up their time to help. Unfortunately that is just where I'm getting, no where.

@Phaedrux The filament is fine it can easily unspool straight into the extruder, I have tried multiple seam alignments from aligned to random, along with multiple slicers (cura and prusa). The bed on the sapphire plus is supported on two edges so is much more rigid than a lot of Chinese coreXY machines and the bed level screws are down tight enough it does not really move around.

@lodger Yes it is the BMG clone that is shipped with it however I have also tried a titan extruder I had kicking about with no change.

As stated at the beginning this has been happening on two machines for me now, with the exact same issue, and both machines had been working fine before the duet. I "upgraded" the first with the duet because of the questionable saftey of the first machines electronics, and the second because I already had the duet so why would i not? However the fact they have both worked fine without it rules out it being a mechanical issue, there is no way it is z wobble, or a bad extruder, snagging filament etc because they have all been proven to work fine.

over the last few days i have tried, in no particular order, multiple filaments, multiple extruders, extruder tensions, changing jerk settings both higher and lower, changing acceleration settings both higher and lower, different temperature ranges, retraction settings, pressure advance settings, I have moved all of the motors around onto different drivers, checked belt tensions really anything that could produce banding on the Z axis like I'm getting that I could think of. It is not layer shifting as the bands appear the whole way around the prints rather than sticking out one side and in the other.

I have tried every suggestion everyone has made on the forums, one at a time and done a test print in between nothing has made any real improvements.

the above imagine is of two cubes printed back to back. The only difference between them is the worse one on the left was sliced at .1mm layer height, while the other at was .2 all other settings stayed the same.

The only thing i can see being wrong at this point is there is something wrong with my board. I just wish i had a second one kicking about i could swap to and stick the SD card in because that would prove it one way or the other. At this point I'm getting close to just tearing the duet back out and converting it back over to the makerbase board that it came with.

@Veti I may grab the flexibles kit at some point especially if i can come up with a way to make it an easy swap. so i can use the v6 for high temp materials with the titanium heatbreak and nozzle X, then swap to the LGX flexibles one for well... flexibles. I don't think it will be too hard with some clever mounting and connectors on all the wires close to the hotend.

@DIY-O-Sphere Cheers, i did see this on thingiverse, i will probably print it to see how things line up, The issue is that on the sapphire plus from the factory everything is designed to hang below the linear rail wilth just enough clearance to pass a ptfe tube through, hence when when i quickly made that mount yesterday i have just mounted the extruder right above the path the tube would normally take.

to more directly mount the V6 i think i'm going to have to lose substantial build volume, either by mounting the whole assembly to one side of the rail and therefore losing build volume in the Y axis, or hanging the whole lot including the extruder below which would lose me a lot of Z height. Its a large-ish printer anyway so i can probably afford to do that without running into build volume issues too often though.

@Veti The LGX is smaller, lighter, has much larger drive wheels and has a much better tensioning system and costs (at least in the UK) basically the same as a BMG, so why not have the newer better one? Also like I said I'm going to redesign the mount to shorten the filament path. I just needed something to get it working as you can see the quality on the printed mount is horrible because obviously it had to be done before the upgrade.

@Veti Sure.

So the LGX on its own comes with two adapter plates, one to use for bowden and one for direct drive but specifically for the slice engineering hot ends which would require a very short ptfe tube (a few mm to use). However I have a full top end V6 setup with copper block and titanium heatbreak and whatnot so I don't really want to switch, also due to the design on the printer and belt tensioner there is no way at the moment to mount it closer to the hotend which is why im going to have to design my own i think.

They also sell an "LGX for flexibles" kit which turns it into an all in one solution not unlike the E3D Hemera where you replace the adapter bracket with a metal one with a heat sink which takes the heat break, this comes with a slice engineering hotend but is purchased separately.

So first things first, this thing is tiny so I decided to quickly make a direct drive mount for it in fusion, I did this for a few reasons, one like I said its tiny so not as much of an issue in having a bmg + full size stepper hanging off the top of the hot end, but mainly I did it because being able to print more materials + less print issues are more important to me than the speed increase I could get with a lighter hotend assembly, I never print that fast anyway because I like the printer to be quiet.

With that said it is honestly by far the best extruder i have used. It has fixed the weird extrusion issue i was having (although direct drive mounting the BMG clone would probably have helped with that) but mainly the tension lever is just so much easier than all other extruders i have used. Click it over to the left and the filament slides perfectly in and out, first click to the right for PLA and you are away. No faffing with tension screws.

first print off had some retraction issues. (printed in fillamentum PLA extrafill - Traffic White

I used Bondtechs recommended retaction settings or .4 mm at 35mm/s for direct drive and it was just not enough. Although to be fair to bondtech you could only really call my setup sudo direct drive as it has about a 60mm ptfe tube between the extruder and hotend.

Second print was better, .7mm retraction at 35mm/s. There were the odd strings still not visible in the image. Now the stringing was gone i did start to suspect the part cooling was not enough though, you can see the top or the doorway is not great. (printed in fillamentum PLA extrafill - Gold Happens

So i printed a Cali Cat because i have always found it to be a good indicator of part cooling ability and it pretty much confirmed my suspicion that the part cooling was not up to the job. Which is a shame really because the part cooling fans which came with the printer were by far the quietest I have ever used, which i guess is why they are not moving enough air. I have a really good Sunon blower fan i was using on the previous printer that at full speed is more likely to give you issues with the print being blown off the bed than poor cooling, even though it does sound like a jet engine i will probably swap out for that. (printed in some random PLA sample I was sent I had kicking around)

Next step I'm going to redesign the hotend mount to take a better part cooling fan and try and shorten the filament path between the extruder and hot end as much as possible

Its here!

Much earlier than expected. Will let you know how it goes.

Thanks all for your help. Pretty sure i have this tracked down to being a problem with the extruder, I only have on hand the bondtech BMG clone that came with the printer, and a titan clone i have kicking around for ages. I have changed to the titan and managed to get a good print at .2mm however at .1mm it just ate through the filament and underextruded. I am going to put this on pause for a while, I have ordered a genuine bondtech LGX, however with it being a brand new product its going to be a few weeks before its here I will report back then. Until then I'm just going to finish sorting other parts of the printer like building side panels and a top cover.

One thing I have got working is I'm running a Raspberry Pi in the electronics enclosure to make the maestro wifi, I have a step down converter going from a 24V line to 5V to power the Pi when the printer is switched on. Then I'm bridging the Pi wifi adapter across to the ethernet port and have a cable going from there into the maestro. I have not been kicking around the forums long enough to see if anyone has posted a guide on how to do this already but i'm happy to write one if there is any interest.

Joe

@droftarts said in Issues with my Duet Maestro or bad config?:

... are still closer to the Github values for Z, especially for acceleration (Z100) and jerk (Z0.4mm/s = Z24mm/min), than what you have set in your config.g. Sorry, should have spotted this sooner!

Ian

no worries, the config has changed lot since i last posted the whole thing because i keep making changes as people suggest things so the settings were much closer to what you suggested than previously . I have set you suggested settings and will try a test print now

so as it stands the config is as below. note. the motors numbering and directions are all messed up as i have moved the connections around on the board as suggested above and have not moved them back yet.

; Configuration file for Duet Maestro (firmware version 3)
; executed by the firmware on start-up

; General preferences
G90                                            ; send absolute coordinates...
M83                                            ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"Derek"                                  ; set printer name
M669 K1                                        ; select CoreXY mode

; Network
M552 P192.168.2.12 S1                          ; enable network and set IP address
M553 P255.255.255.0                            ; set netmask
M554 P192.168.2.1                              ; set gateway
M586 P0 S1                                     ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0                                     ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0                                     ; disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0 S1 V1                                     ; physical drive 0 goes backwards
M569 P1 S1 D2                                 ; physical drive 1 goes forwards
M569 P2 S0 V1                                   ; physical drive 2 goes forwards
M569 P3 S0 V1												; physical drive 3 goes forwards
M569 P4 S1 V1									; physical drive 4 goes forwards

M584 X2 Y3 Z0:4 E1                               ; set drive mapping
M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1                      ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X80.00 Y80.00 Z400 E430              ; set steps per mm
M566 P1 X600 Y600 Z18.00 E420            ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X18000.00 Y18000.00 Z360.00 E1500.00        ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X2000.00 Y2000.00 Z100.00 E10000.00            ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M204 p1000 T1500
M906 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E1000 I30                   ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30                                        ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1                               ; set axis minima
M208 X300 Y300 Z350 S0                         ; set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"!xstop"                            ; configure active-low endstop for low end on X via pin xstop
M574 Y2 S1 P"!ystop"                            ; configure active-low endstop for low end on Y via pin ystop
M574 Z1 S1 P"!zstop+!e1stop"                            ; configure active-low endstop for low end on Z via pin zstop

; Z-Probe
M950 S0 C"zprobe.mod"                         ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
M558 P9 C"^zprobe.in" H5 F120 T6000            ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P500 X0 Y-42.8 Z1.1                            ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X50:250 Y50:250 S50                       ; define mesh grid

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"bedtemp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin bedtemp
M950 H0 C"bedheat" T0                          ; create bed heater output on bedheat and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 R0.175 C745.8 D3.56 S1.00
M140 H0                                        ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S120                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"e0temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4725 C0.0000000706  ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin e0temp
M950 H1 C"e0heat" T1                           ; create nozzle heater output on e0heat and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 R1.941 C309.177:309.177 D6.72 S1.00 B0
M143 H1 S280                                   ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C                               

; Fans
M950 F0 C"fan0"                           ; create fan 0 on pin fan0 and set its frequency
M106 P0 S1.0 H1 T45                              ; set fan 0 value. Thermostatic control is turned on
M950 F1 C"fan1" Q500                           ; create fan 1 on pin fan1 and set its frequency
M106 P1 S0 H-1                                 ; set fan 1 value. Thermostatic control is turned off
M950 F2 C"fan2" Q500                           ; create fan 2 on pin fan2 and set its frequency
M106 P2 S0 H-1                                 ; set fan 2 value. Thermostatic control is turned off

; Tools
M563 P0 S"Hot End" D0 H1 F1:2                           ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0                                ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0                                   ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

However i have made some good progress with checking the extruder as @lodger and @DIY-O-Sphere suggested, the filament path was fine however the grub screw holding the hobbed gear to the motor shaft was loose enough to allow it to move side to side, but not so loose it could come off the flat part of the shaft, i have sorted this now and the first print off is much better. I think unfortunately Im fighting against multiple issues which is making it hard to track down and a much more iterative process, but i do feel like Im making process at least this morning.

@dc42

I think so,

pretty sure they are 2mm pitch, 4 start, 8mm lead. so having double checked that math that means that 400 is correct right?

@JamesM Yes, I have tried both cura and prusa slicers just in case and both were set to relative extrusion and reprap firmware.

@DIY-O-Sphere I did have the extruder in parts to check it over and all seems fine but i will double check to see if the input and output holes are aligned once the current test print is done.

@dc42 the Z mechanism is two leadscrews one on both the left and right edge of the bed, with linear rails. pretty sure they are 2mm pitch. I have the motors running off different drivers each with their own end stop to level the bed left to right, then a bl touch probes the centre to get the z height. They are 1.8 degree 1.7a motors 17HS4401S. As @lodger stated above though this should mean at 1/16 steps (interpolated) with a 2mm pitch they should be 1600 steps/mm right? but I have tried them at that and when i tell the bed to move down 50mm it shoots 200mm down to the bottom of the printer. set at 400 steps/mm it moves the correct amount.

@lodger Thanks for the suggestion, but I don't think that can be it, I will double check however if it was out by a factor of four there is no way a model would come out. As it stands the 20mm cubes are coming out at 20mm, if it was moving 1/4 of what it should it would have just been a 5mm tall squashed mess

I will check the other suggestions and get back to you.