reduced motor current for probing? - Piezo Orion
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I am finally getting my machine tuned and printing reasonably well however I have a rather annoying problem.
while my Piezo Orion works consistently well most of the time every now and again and for no apparent reason it fails to trigger resulting in the head being driven uncontrolled into the bed snapping the head mounting bracket.
needless to say this is becoming a bit frustrating and while I continue to try and determine what is causing the failure I had the thought that if I was able to reduce the Z motor current while probing then it may be possible to at least have the motors stall when the head hits the bed rather than driving down causing damage.
is this even possible?
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@opentoideas use M913 in your homing or probing files to temporarily reduce the Z motor current. Restore it to 100% afterwards.
What probing speed are you using? Piezo sensors don't work so well with low probing speeds.
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thank you I will have a play once the new bracket finishes printing (first job after a crash - replace the broken bit and have at least 2 spares!)
probing speed is F300. Most of the time its fine and the failure is a rarity - possibly 1 in 100 but if I miss it the results are a disaster.
I may have to just buy a new one as I currently suspect the sensitivity pot to be the culprit as while it dosn't need adjusting a tap near it seems to bring it back to life.
I noticed a new version on the website but cant see any details as to what has been changed but as I know my machine was the test machine they used to design the Orion mount for a CR-10 on so I would guess mine is an old revision
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@opentoideas I think you can upper the probing Speed, I use F600 and have no problems
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good to know - though I will have to be even quicker to catch it if it fails!
Reduced motor current and faster probe speed on the way.
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The piezo needs a short sharp shock to detect the contact properly. Probing too slow can be worse than probing too fast.
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IIRC the manual says about 220 to 440 so i went in the middle.
Will be far happier raising the speed with reduced motor currents as a bad probe hopefully wont do damage.
Not long and the printer will be clear so i can have a try
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well I am at a loss and really struggling. when it fails on reboot it stays triggered until I give it a tap. I get some weird behaviour where its more sensitive to a tap of the nozzle from some directions so I am down to either the printed parts or the sensitivity pot.
either way I think I will get a replacement on the way as when working its great and I have a feeling mine may just have got to the end of its life
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@opentoideas said in reduced motor current for probing? - Piezo Orion:
well I am at a loss and really struggling. when it fails on reboot it stays triggered until I give it a tap. I get some weird behaviour where its more sensitive to a tap of the nozzle from some directions so I am down to either the printed parts or the sensitivity pot.
either way I think I will get a replacement on the way as when working its great and I have a feeling mine may just have got to the end of its life
What kind of bed surface are you using? One of the magnetic systems?
My probe of choice is a "high frequency" inductive probe but it limits the bed surface I can use.
For example, the Buildtak system can be problematic as the magnetic field from the bed can cause bad readings from the inductive probe.
The magnetic systems that use the "flexible rubber" type work fine but you can be limited in bed temperatures.
Frederick
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bed is glass - its an Anycubic Ultrabase but still glass.
its been a great surface for adhesion and durability and should work well with the piezo. just bad luck I think
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@opentoideas said in reduced motor current for probing? - Piezo Orion:
bed is glass - its an Anycubic Ultrabase but still glass.
its been a great surface for adhesion and durability and should work well with the piezo. just bad luck I think
I was a fan of glass but have moved away from it in favor of the removable surface products.
Very pleased with the offerings that are available for different types of filaments.
Frederick
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I was surprised by how well it does as it claims. Slightly hotter for good adhesion on the first layer then as it cools off at the end of the print the part releases.
I spent a lot of time with plain glass trying to get either good first layer adhesion or release of the part after printing and tried a load of the usual tapes and adhesives without luck before stumbling on these but they are working for me
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@opentoideas said in reduced motor current for probing? - Piezo Orion:
well I am at a loss and really struggling. when it fails on reboot it stays triggered until I give it a tap. I get some weird behaviour where its more sensitive to a tap of the nozzle from some directions so I am down to either the printed parts or the sensitivity pot.
either way I think I will get a replacement on the way as when working its great and I have a feeling mine may just have got to the end of its life
Unfortunately, I had the same issues and dumped the Orion. I was kinda hoping that the issues were related to the CR10 (bed slinger) I was running at the time and was going to try it on the Jubilee I am currently building. I am not entirely hopeful but when it does work it is beautiful ....
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@opentoideas said in reduced motor current for probing? - Piezo Orion:
when it fails on reboot it stays triggered until I give it a tap.
I seem to recall seeing someone having an adjustment in their config.g that set the sensitivity to whatever the current probe reading was minus a bit so that it wouldn't read as triggered.
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yes when it works its great and I am really missing having it around so I bit the bullet and ordered a new one along with the printed parts just to rule them out as a cause.
unfortunately while I have got the sensitivity to the point even a light tap triggers the only thing that wont trigger is the probe touching the bed.
I have tried with speeds from 300 to 950 all with the same result and added tension to the bed levelling springs on the unlikely chance that was the problem but it always crashes into the bed deflecting the whole hotend carriage before triggering.
I have posted to the Reprap forum as their site suggests so will have to keep manually levelling until I hear back.
