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Inconsistent Z distance movement

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Tuning and tweaking
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  • undefined
    RaymondS
    last edited by RaymondS 26 Oct 2021, 18:57

    Hi All,

    VID_20211026_225032.mp4

    Just upgraded my CR-10S Pro v2 with the Duet 3 mini 5+ and linear rails. So, new to the Duet game.

    My Z movement is not consistent and cannot figure out why. New lead Screws, backlash Nuts, everything is tight.

    https://youtu.be/sXt5mdn_cKc (Just in case video is not viewable)

    Any suggestions as to where to start looking

    undefined 1 Reply Last reply 26 Oct 2021, 19:17 Reply Quote 0
    • undefined
      PCR @RaymondS
      last edited by 26 Oct 2021, 19:17

      @raymonds please Post your config.g

      undefined 1 Reply Last reply 26 Oct 2021, 19:20 Reply Quote 0
      • undefined
        RaymondS @PCR
        last edited by 26 Oct 2021, 19:20

        @pcr

        config.g

        Hope I am doing this correctly

        undefined 2 Replies Last reply 26 Oct 2021, 19:30 Reply Quote 0
        • undefined
          PCR @RaymondS
          last edited by 26 Oct 2021, 19:30

          @raymonds your M906 Z current is only 500 amps

          please increase it to 1000

          undefined 1 Reply Last reply 26 Oct 2021, 19:36 Reply Quote 0
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            PCR @RaymondS
            last edited by 26 Oct 2021, 19:31

            @raymonds and there is a Typo

            M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2:3 E0.4

            Should Look Like this

            M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2:0.3 E0.4

            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • undefined
              RaymondS @PCR
              last edited by 26 Oct 2021, 19:36

              @pcr

              Will try again at 1000, but last time it was this high I could fry eggs on it...

              IMG_20211022_102213.jpg

              Will make correction on M584 as well. Thanks

              undefined 1 Reply Last reply 26 Oct 2021, 19:39 Reply Quote 0
              • undefined
                PCR @RaymondS
                last edited by 26 Oct 2021, 19:39

                @raymonds you can Play with the M906. Think your Main Problem was the M584

                undefined 1 Reply Last reply 26 Oct 2021, 19:39 Reply Quote 0
                • undefined
                  PCR @PCR
                  last edited by 26 Oct 2021, 19:39

                  @pcr keep in mind that 1000ma in RRF are 707ma in Marlin or Klipper

                  undefined 1 Reply Last reply 26 Oct 2021, 20:13 Reply Quote 0
                  • undefined
                    RaymondS @PCR
                    last edited by 26 Oct 2021, 20:13

                    @pcr
                    Made the changes, still not consistent. Motors are very hot on the touch.

                    But think I will replace the lead screws first as I think this Teflon coat could possibly be a problem in that I don't know if it is consistent (I bent the originals by mistake and ordered these) I don't have confidence in them as I had to remove some of the coatings just to get them into the coupler... (as you can see in the pic) So coating might also not be consistent up to the top of the screw.

                    IMG_20211026_235541.jpg

                    Even though the picture might make the spacing look wrong, the spacing is correct and doesn't bind when moving up or down. But they are tighter through the backlash nuts than in comparison with the normal lead screw.

                    Thanks for the help. But think I should just go back.... Too many parts upgraded in a single move makes it hard to troubleshoot.

                    undefined 1 Reply Last reply 26 Oct 2021, 22:11 Reply Quote 0
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                      engikeneer @RaymondS
                      last edited by 26 Oct 2021, 22:11

                      @raymonds I haven't downloaded your config (on mobile), but maybe your Z accel and jerk settings or speeds are a bit too high for your setup? Might be worth reducing them a bit and seeing if it helps.

                      I assume you've checked the grub screws etc for any mechanical slippage

                      Also, might be worth removing the antibacklash nut. Unless your z accel is greater than 9810mm/s, you won't be outrunning gravity so the antibacklash won't get you much other than extra friction!

                      E3D TC with D3Mini and Toolboards.
                      Home-built CoreXY, Duet Wifi, Chimera direct drive, 2x BMG, 300x300x300 build volume
                      i3 clone with a bunch of mods

                      undefined 1 Reply Last reply 27 Oct 2021, 04:19 Reply Quote 0
                      • undefined
                        RaymondS @engikeneer
                        last edited by 27 Oct 2021, 04:19

                        @engikeneer Thanks for the input. Appreciated.

                        I did not think the acceleration and jerk would affect the absolute positioning of the Z, only the quality of the filament had been layed down in a specific movement. So expected 100% same movement distance all the time. All settings for M566 and M201 are standard (as per the online configuration tool - don't recall changing anything here). As for M203, I did up the max speeds but did not know this could change the absolute position, I will reduce this again and see what happens.

                        As for grub screws, I have triple checked this including alignment (making sure of no binding). This was my initial thought of the problem.

                        I think the next item post slowing down max speed is to remove the backlash nuts and run another set of tests. Going to follow a very slow and iterative change now so that I can see what is causing which issue (have another but first trying to get E-Steps dialed in correctly).

                        I have noticed that when changing direction (down to up and also up to down movements), that within the first 1mm you always seem to lose +/- 0.20. Is this normal?

                        ; Drives
                        M569 P0.0 S0 ; physical drive 0.0 goes backwards
                        M569 P0.1 S0 ; physical drive 0.1 goes backwards
                        M569 P0.2 S1 ; physical drive 0.2 goes backwards
                        M569 P0.3 S1 ; physical drive 0.3 goes backwards
                        M569 P0.4 S0 ; physical drive 0.4 goes backwards
                        M584 X0.0 Y0.1 Z0.2:0.3 E0.4 ; set drive mapping
                        M350 X16 Y16 Z16 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
                        M92 X80.15 Y80.15 Z400.00 E387.10 ; set steps per mm
                        M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z60.00 E120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
                        M203 X16000.00 Y16000.00 Z6000.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
                        M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E250.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
                        M906 X800 Y800 Z1000 E800 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
                        M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout
                        undefined 1 Reply Last reply 27 Oct 2021, 06:04 Reply Quote 0
                        • undefined
                          engikeneer @RaymondS
                          last edited by 27 Oct 2021, 06:04

                          @raymonds that sounds like you are losing steps when the axis is accelerating and changing direction (I.e. because your acceleration/jerk is too high). If you command it to accelerate too fast and it doesn't have enough torque/power the motor will lose steps. It will think it had moved 100mm, but will have actually moves less. In direction changes you have to do double the amount of acceleration (I.e. decelerate, then accelerate again) so you are more likely to see missed steps than in a normal move

                          E3D TC with D3Mini and Toolboards.
                          Home-built CoreXY, Duet Wifi, Chimera direct drive, 2x BMG, 300x300x300 build volume
                          i3 clone with a bunch of mods

                          1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • undefined
                            rjenkinsgb
                            last edited by 27 Oct 2021, 06:26

                            Looking at the photo, could the spacer pillars that link the ballnut mount to the linear slide be flexing slightly?

                            The near spacer in the photo looks to have a twist in it.

                            I'd try it with power off and the digital vernier over one screw, turning the motor very slowly each way by hand and see if the motion follows exactly or not.

                            The spacers may work better as tall blocks rather than just tubes, so it's impossible for them to rock.

                            Robert J.

                            Printers: Overlord pro, Kossel XL+ with Duet 6HC and "Frankentron", TronXY X5SA Pro converted to E3D toolchange with Duet 6HC and 1LC toolboards.

                            1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
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