How to generate a bigger probing map (more point)
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Went ahead and fixed my M557 line
Added more points. Now I have a bigger issue lol.
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@alankilian so i should run a G32 a couple times 1st?
ive been reading about set the Z=0 Datum could you show me how to set that up?
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@eddygara said in How to generate a bigger probing map (more point):
ive been reading about set the Z=0 Datum could you show me how to set that up?
This is as easy as doing a single G30 probe at the center of the bed.
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@phaedrux So my issue is when i do this my effector moves to the center of the printer, goes down about 50mm then stops. it does not touch or probe the bed
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Bed after doing a delta calibration a couple of times
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@eddygara said in How to generate a bigger probing map (more point):
@phaedrux So my issue is when i do this my effector moves to the center of the printer, goes down about 50mm then stops. it does not touch or probe the bed
I think the normal sequence after a power cycle would be
G28 to home the towers
G32 to perform a delta calibrationIdeally that would be enough to establish the Z0 point, but you could also add a single g30 at center to the end of your bed.g.
Then you can perform a G29 to create the mesh.
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You get the same wavy potato chip height map I used to get with my delta before I tightened up everything and made sure my ball-ends were lubricated.
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@alankilian Ive done alot of this so far. Ive tighten all parts, ive run the sequences in the order stated above. My 1st layers are coming out horrible. Ive never experienced an issue like this is the Duet Wifi. Any other suggestions?
Im really at my wits end with this. I have 3 Duet 3 in the box sitting for a year thinking it was a worth wild upgrade, just to have this one issue be a problem and deterring me from using these machine.
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Did you explore this page?
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@phaedrux I have in the past. it would very useful if i can manually calibrate the printer. Why isnt there an option to do that? Or is there something im missing where i can have something like this performed?
Im not the most advance guy when it comes to this board, i just want it to work. my towers are square, my bed is fixed, my glass is straight.
is there a way to calibrate the system via software, to get me close as possible to flatness, (using the old paper and feel method, or even a digital dial) then have the machine calibrated? This method of software calibration just leaves so much room from error im sure im not the only one who feels this way
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Here is my lastest hight map. Why can’t this bed provide a straight map?
Not just that if this printer has firmware bed correction, then why can’t it print straight knowing the data of the height map? Can someone help me make sense of this? I’m so lost, and would like to be able to use all 5 of my printers again instead of them collecting dust.
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Here a video of my issue
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The auto calibration should be able to give you a flat bed, but it requires the delta mechanics to be correct in the first place.
The resulting mesh is just reflecting the mechanical issues.
Your config.g looks alright. But perhaps there is a better pattern to use in the bed.g to improve the results.
I'm not a delta expert, so there's nothing specific I can suggest unfortunately, other than it's usually helpful to go through the delta calibration process from scratch.
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Machine_configuration/Configuration_linear_delta
https://docs.duet3d.com/en/User_manual/Tuning/Delta_calibration
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@eddygara Eddy change the S parameter on the last line of your Bed.g change it from S4 to at least S6 or even S8 then run the calibration a few times to converge I have seen mention before mind of those moulded arms not calibrating to there normal length but you would need to search back for that info and I can't remember where it was I saw it either.
HTH
Doug
