Where to buy quality SSR?

I am switching to a mains powered bed heater and wondering where I should order an SSR from. I am based in the US and leery of ordering from some unknown manufacturer off Amazon .

bed heater 1000w @ 120v = 8.3 amps. I'm thinking I should get one rated for 20-30 amps to be safe.

Any suggestions on where to order, or if there is a specific model would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

dc42

@wwak84 in which country?

@dc42 United States

Phaedrux

Try here: https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=SRDA40

I use one and it's served me well for a few years now.

@Phaedrux Thank you. What size heat sink did you use? The 40amp rated one or a smaller one?

Phaedrux

I used the 40a rated. No real reason to skimp.

For heatsink I used the thermal pad they sell and mounted it to the aluminum extrusion printer frame. It doesn't get very warm, so it must be working. My bed heater is only 600 watts though.

@Phaedrux True.

Yeah, the 1000w is overkill but it was the only one that I found is compatible with the new aluminum bed / 3 lead screw Hydra conversion I'm installing. Manual bed leveling will soon be a thing of the past for me

Thanks for the guidance!

hackinistrator

with such high current on mains i think its also important to buy ssr with zero cross trigger type.

@hackinistrator Thanks for pointing that out. The linked above that I ordered says in its specs "Switch method zero-cross turn on"

So I think I'm good with that SSR

deckingman

@wwak84 said in Where to buy quality SSR?:

Manual bed leveling will soon be a thing of the past for me

With a little care and patience, any form of levelling or flatness compensation could be a thing if the past.

@deckingman True true.

When I switch to three lead screws and a 9mm mic 6 bed, I hope to achieve that. Pretty soon the only stock thing on my E5P will be the extrusions.

deckingman

@wwak84 said in Where to buy quality SSR?:

@deckingman True true.

When I switch to three lead screws and a 9mm mic 6 bed, I hope to achieve that. Pretty soon the only stock thing on my E5P will be the extrusions.

Having once had a printer that needed constant compensation, and one that is mechanically flat, level and stays that way, I much prefer the latter approach. But then I always prefer to fix the fundamental problem rather than find ways to compensate for fundamentally poor design or build quality. So much nicer to simply heat, home and print and never worry about whether the build plate is flat or level.

jens55

@deckingman said in Where to buy quality SSR?:

Having once had a printer that needed constant compensation, and one that is mechanically flat, level and stays that way, I much prefer the latter approach. But then I always prefer to fix the fundamental problem rather than find ways to compensate for fundamentally poor design or build quality. So much nicer to simply heat, home and print and never worry about whether the build plate is flat or level.

Who needs constant compensation? If you have a quality printer then nothing will change from print to print. You do a single surface map and that is good until you start messing with the build surface (for example replacing the glass surface).
If you have a questionable quality printer than a flat build surface isn't going to eliminate the compensation.

deckingman

@jens55 said in Where to buy quality SSR?:

Who needs constant compensation? If you have a quality printer then nothing will change from print to print. You do a single surface map and that is good until you start messing with the build surface (for example replacing the glass surface).
If you have a questionable quality printer than a flat build surface isn't going to eliminate the compensation.

Mostly true and I was referring to my very first printer which was a RepRap Mendel kit, all built from threaded rod, printed parts and a very flimsy bed. Things have moved on somewhat from those early days and the start of the RepRap movement. But it should not be necessary to do a surface map every time you change the glass. I swap glass build plates all the time and never do any form of flatness compensation. Also, I still see many people using multiple, individually driven lead screws which can jump by up to 4 full steps every time the power is cycled. So although their flatness compensation may not vary, their levelling will need to be re-adjusted or compensated every time the power is cycled. Maybe not "constant" re-adjustment but frequent enough to be bothersome IMO.