Extruder or Slicer issue? Filament not extruding properly?

iamthebest22

Hi all. Finally got my BLtouch and such all worked out, thank you very much for the help. I was starting to do test prints. Had problem at first because I didn't realize the e-steps for the extruder was totally off causing almost jams. Fixed the extruder and esteps correctly, and during priming it seems fine, same with the brim. However, one it starts to print the actual thing, my titan extruder starts randomly clicking, I've tried the tension on the nut itself, but doesn't seem like it, and then on 2nd layer, extrusion of the filament doesn't seem to be proper, so it starts to lift and get onto the nozzle itself. basically I'm asking is this. I am currently using Cura 3.0.3, and the Gcode flavor I'm using is RepRap, and the start gcode is :

G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0
G1 E-3 F300
G32 ; ABL for HEVO
G92 E0
G1 X5 Y5 Z0.3 ; position for priming
G1 F200 E11
M82 ;Must set for Duet to use relative extrusion.

end gcode is (doesn't really matter I think since I can't even print first layer properly and not enough filament coming out):
M104 S0
M140 S0
G92 E1
G1 E-3 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
M83 ;Back to exact extrusion.

Thank you very much

EDIT: another problem popped up while I was trying to fix it. mid print, it suddenly just shut off the whole thing, there was no power outage or flicker, so what caused it to suddenly shut down? including the power supply itself too o.o. Turning the power switch off and on again and everything was working again but what could cause it to suddenly turn off mid print?

DR8

The basic profile in cura start with a diameter of the filament of 2.85. Make sure that value is the real diameter of your filament and if not change it with 1.75. Then make sure to have the right nozzle diameter value inserted. After this you can play with flow setting in Cura. Reduce it to 95 and see how it behaves. Now about extruder when it s clicking is also grinding the filament? If not, adjust de knob pressure on the filament and increase the motor current to about 1200. If yes, this is a real clue of why you get over extrusion. I would double check the steps/mm. Oh yeah, in Cura there is a function named relative extrusion. Make sure to be checked. You can also give it a try with slic3r and see the difference.

I don t know what to say about power source. Double check all the connections.

iamthebest22

Thanks DR8. I use custom profile so it's 1.75mm. Nozzle is indeed 0.4 in custom PLA profile and printer settings. I did figure out my esteps was wrong (imported my friends who uses 0.9 degree motor when I use 1.8 degree motor) and fixed that, but still clicking. I adjusted the knob pressure and it's clicking much less now, still need to figure that out. Motor was at 1200, I've turned it down to 1000 since it was running hot (40C) but I guess I'll turn it back up to 1200 to check.

Where is the function in Cura to check relative extrusion? o.o I can't find it in 3.0.3 at all. I am considering buying S3D and trying that out.

The interesting thing about the mid power shut down (and doesn't turn back up) is that it happened near the print, while it didn't happen during the other near finished but failed prints. Gah so close yet so far…. this HEVO xD

EDIT: Never mind found the relative extrusion under special modes. It is checked, so does that mean I don't need to put M82 in start gcode for the HEVO profile anymore in Cura?

burtoogle

As mentioned several times already on this forum: Cura 3 onwards supports relative extrusion mode (I think the setting is under special modes but it is enabled by default when the gcode flavour is set to reprap). Relative extrusion will be used for all generated extrudes but before any scripts (start code, end code, tool change code, etc.) are included, the extrusion mode will be set to absolute and then back to relative when the script finishes. So if you want to use relative extrusion mode in a script you have to add M83 yourself to select that. Yes, I know that forcing absolute mode in scripts is dumb but the Cura devs insisted upon it for some reason that I don't really understand. We have to live with that.

burtoogle

BTW set relative extrude mode is M83, set absolute mode is M82. This conflicts with what you are using in the scripts above.

iamthebest22

Hi burtoogle, yeah i just found it under special modes, had to turn it on to see it.
OH so it isn't M82 but M83 I should have put in the start gcode, Gosh darn it, everything I've been doing wrong so far has been doing the opposite thing for some reason. However, since I have relative extrusion mode set already in the profile, do I still need that M83 in the start gcode? Or just for safe measures. Thanks

EDIT: reading your comment in more detail, if I did not misunderstood, so I should put M83 in the start gcode nevertheless, and then M82 in the end Gcode, so it should look like this for start gcode:
G28 ;Home
G1 Z15.0 F6000 ;Move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0
G1 E-3 F300
G32 ; ABL for HEVO
G92 E0
G1 X5 Y5 Z0.3 ; position for priming
G1 F200 E11
M83 ;Must set for Duet to use relative extrusion

and this for end gcode:
M104 S0
M140 S0
G92 E1
G1 E-3 F300
G28 X0 Y0
M84
M82 ;Back to exact/absolute extrusion

correct?

burtoogle

Those M82 and M83s are not required but not actually causing a problem because right after those scripts are included, Cura will add the M82 or M83 depending on what mode you are using. You only need to put M83 in a script if you actually want to do some relative extruder move within the script itself. So, for example, the end script I use looks like this:

M83 ; extruder relative mode
G1 E-5 F2000 ; retract
M104 S0 ; turn off extruder
M140 S0 ; turn off bed
M106 S0 ; turn off fan
G28 ; home

```It starts with an M83 because I want to do a retract. My start script doesn't include an M83 because that will be added by Cura after the script.

DR8

you can leave M82 in the start Gcode. Just enable the relative extrusion function and that's it. do some tests by lowering the flow and see the result. Also try with slic3r.

The power interruptions may be due to bad power source. I had a friend with exactly the same problem as yours. So buy a new one and do some tests. You can buy 12V 20-25A or 24V at 10 A. Keep us updated. And also make sure you have a good power cord not a chinese one and plug the printer into another socket.

iamthebest22

Thanks all, seems to work, right now just seems like it's more of a hardware then software now. yeah next time I'm not buying clones or certain items , as I've had to spend so much time on them that buying an authentic one probably would have saved me the time and the money in the long run. Yes my extruder is a TriangleLabs titan clone, nothing but trouble it seems, authentic one on the way but yeah. Seems like it's working properly in Cura though. Some pics:

DR8

Change the extruder when arrives and be sure to have qualitative filament, it s really important. Hope everything to be fine. Duet is an awesome electronics, i hope for you to feel the taste soon.

iamthebest22

Thanks very much for the help once again, I seemed to have solved it, and it was partially me being idiotic. The clone came with also a 3.0 filament part and 2 1.75mm, and I didn't check and that was part of the problem xD installed the correct and adjusted the tension and I don't hear the clicking anymore, at least it's so silent I have to put my ear right onto the clone (literally) to hear like a barely audible click (almost non existent). and it's so far seem to be well. So hopefully that seems to be fine now, but I couldn't finish the print because of another issue, which I'll post here, but it does seem to be hardware related.

70% of the cube test print through when I noticed a weird smell, I thought it was the filament, but noticed the smell was coming out of my power supply. No smoke yet, but I immediately stopped the print and once it cooled down, unplugged the power supply. Power supplies shouldn't make a smell right? This is the last time I buy from that aliexpress supplier again….

So will this power supply do and be safe? From the reviews it seems like it (has to be amazon.ca since I live in Canada)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HTF1Q06/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1WG60CSCAVTUM&psc=1

DADIY

@iamthebest22:

Thanks very much for the help once again, I seemed to have solved it, and it was partially me being idiotic. The clone came with also a 3.0 filament part and 2 1.75mm, and I didn't check and that was part of the problem xD installed the correct and adjusted the tension and I don't hear the clicking anymore, at least it's so silent I have to put my ear right onto the clone (literally) to hear like a barely audible click (almost non existent). and it's so far seem to be well. So hopefully that seems to be fine now, but I couldn't finish the print because of another issue, which I'll post here, but it does seem to be hardware related.

70% of the cube test print through when I noticed a weird smell, I thought it was the filament, but noticed the smell was coming out of my power supply. No smoke yet, but I immediately stopped the print and once it cooled down, unplugged the power supply. Power supplies shouldn't make a smell right? This is the last time I buy from that aliexpress supplier again….

So will this power supply do and be safe? From the reviews it seems like it (has to be amazon.ca since I live in Canada)

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01HTF1Q06/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A1WG60CSCAVTUM&psc=1

I have a similar power supply from eBay and it smelt of electrical burning for a good few hours when it was new, I kept an eye on it and gradually the smell stopped over a couple of days.