Error: G0/G1: insufficient axes homed

jay_s_uk

@fcwilt thats the homing file we provide https://github.com/TeamGloomy/Troodon-V2/blob/improved/Config/sys/homex.g

deckingman

@fcwilt said in Error: G0/G1: insufficient axes homed:

You don't need to do the test to see if the endstop is already triggered at the start. If the endstop is triggered that just means the fast G1 H1 is, in essence, already done.

It could also mean that a wire has become detached from the end stop or the switch itself is faulty. In which case, the axis will be homed even though the print head is some distance away from the switch position. Say for example on the first pass, the head was X = 50mm away from the switch but the wire had fallen off, when you home the machine it will set X=50 as X=0 so then when you travel to X max, the head will collide with the frame some 50mm before X max. So check if the switch is triggered - if so move a short distance away and check again. If it's still triggered something is amiss so flag this and abort is the best approach IMO.

fcwilt

@deckingman

Yes it certainly is protection against that sort of failure but given the multiplicity of things that can fail it's protection against just one.

Frederick

fcwilt

@jay_s_uk

To each their own.

Frederick

deckingman

@fcwilt said in Error: G0/G1: insufficient axes homed:

@deckingman

Yes it certainly is protection against that sort of failure but given the multiplicity of things that can fail it's protection against just one.

Frederick

Sure. But if you've ever slammed a couple of kgs of print head against a frame, you'll know that protection is worth having - especially as it costs nothing and takes milliseconds to check.

ThreeDeeDave

@gloomyandy @jay_s_uk

Thanks guys for taking a look. Please see below answers and attached images:

what driver modules do you have installed?
I have Bigtree TMC 2209 v1.2

Have you made any changes to the board since it was working:
I Have unplugged everything in the board and then put it all back together checking that there were no issues with wiring on the reverse. 99% sure things went back exactly as they should have?

What exactly did "installing a new toolhead" involve:
I installed the new stealth burner and tap upgrade from Formbot. I have updated the the firmware to the relevant team gloomy "tap" firmware.

Any clues?
Thanks
David

jay_s_uk

@ThreeDeeDave have you had issues in the past with the breakout board? i've not seen a repair like this before

In terms of the drivers, they seem to be installed fine. Have you removed any of them? Have you changed any of the jumpers before beneath them?

ThreeDeeDave

@jay_s_uk
Break out board: Yes I have, the copper channels on the other side had come loose and detached from the pin somehow. I had a local computer repair shop repair it. This was from before and the issues from this were related to the z homing switch. This all works fine now aside from the current issue of course. It is repaired like this as the copper channel was too damaged to repair with certainty so they suggested connecting from the reverse side.

Drivers wise, I took them out when checking the main board for damage. Honestly probably didn't put them back in exactly the same place but I assumed they are all the same so it didn't matter?

Haven't touched the jumpers although I do have loads of spares so could try replacing?

jay_s_uk

@ThreeDeeDave could you take a photo of one of the slots with the drivers removed? obviously with the power off

ThreeDeeDave

@jay_s_uk
No problem see below:

jay_s_uk

@ThreeDeeDave thats correct as well which would indicate there may be some sort of hardware issue. I can't see anything wrong with the config etc. best get in contact with Ada at formbot and they should be able to sort you out with a new board. just mention you've spoken to me

ThreeDeeDave

@jay_s_uk Ok thanks so much for taking the time to look at it, really appreciate it.

Thanks
David