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    Purpose of Connectors in the Included Bag

    Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved
    Duet Hardware and wiring
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    • dc42undefined
      dc42 administrators
      last edited by

      The HT225D crimper is suitable for the Molex KK compatible connectors and is widely available.

      Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
      Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
      http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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      • MSquaredundefined
        MSquared
        last edited by

        @SputnikOC3d:

        its the 5 billion other fiddly little JST / Dupont types i'm referring to

        Those connectors can be quite fiddly, especially if one has had too much coffee. It took me about 15 - 20 of them before I finally got a system down that let me do them quickly. You also have to be careful to make sure you are using the right AWG slot on your crimper or you can create very fragile wires that tend to disconnect at in-opportune times.

        Basically I use a pair of small needle nose to pinch the part of the connector that grips the insulation of the wire just enough that it won't fall off. Then I set it on the die of the crimper so that the insulation grabbing part is in the small side and the pin that holds it into the housing is on the outside of the die. Crimp, turn the connector around so that the part that bites into the exposed wire is now on the small side with the holding pin on the outside of the die and crimp again.

        I honestly have no idea if this is the right way or not; however once I started doing this I had professional looking, solid connecting, and non wire breaking connections that only took me 15 - 20 seconds per wire to do. This resulted in far less cussing and swearing as well.

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        • T3P3Tonyundefined
          T3P3Tony administrators
          last edited by

          Using the crimper that DC42 recommended I find the easiest way is to:

          1. insert the molexkk crimp into the correct slot on the crimper and start to close it, just enough so that the crimp is held in place. The ratchet mechanism of the crimper holds the crimper at that point.
          2. insert the stripped wire so that the insulation is up to the central notch in the crimper. This makes the insulation line up with the larger part of the crimps and the stripped wire the smaller, tighter part.
          3. fully close the crimper so the ratchet releases.

          www.duet3d.com

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          • SputnikOC3dundefined
            SputnikOC3d
            last edited by

            Basically I use a pair of small needle nose to pinch the part of the connector that grips the insulation of the wire just enough that it won't fall off. Then I set it on the die of the crimper so that the insulation grabbing part is in the small side and the pin that holds it into the housing is on the outside of the die. Crimp, turn the connector around so that the part that bites into the exposed wire is now on the small side with the holding pin on the outside of the die and crimp again.

            interesting - took me a couple reads to sort out your process … what Crimping tool do you have ? I have an IWISS SN-28B. Due to its thickness/width - where the connector goes into the tool - 2 crimps is rather difficult and NOT smashing the whole lot up as trash ... Im suspecting maybe you have a different tool that is not as wide in the crimp holding area ...

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            • SputnikOC3dundefined
              SputnikOC3d
              last edited by

              Perhaps this is part of my issue ?

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              • Hey_Allenundefined
                Hey_Allen
                last edited by

                Here is the crimper that I use:
                https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K

                It has a crimp contact patch around 3mm thick, so I end up crimping the insulation retention and the contact crimps separately.

                I have found that with the Engineer PA-09 crimper, it works best for me to just cut the strip that the little terminals are on between the contacts, bend the remaining tab down around 90°, and use that as a guide as to where the pin should rest in the crimp jaws.

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                • Dougal1957undefined
                  Dougal1957
                  last edited by

                  @Hey_Allen:

                  Here is the crimper that I use:
                  https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Micro-Connector-Crimpers/dp/B002AVVO7K

                  It has a crimp contact patch around 3mm thick, so I end up crimping the insulation retention and the contact crimps separately.

                  I have found that with the Engineer PA-09 crimper, it works best for me to just cut the strip that the little terminals are on between the contacts, bend the remaining tab down around 90°, and use that as a guide as to where the pin should rest in the crimp jaws.

                  The issue with the PA-09 is that it isn't a ratchet operated one so you can get poor crimps due to the hand pressure required to operate them and the best ones I have used (this is personal preference mind) is the one from Hobbyking https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-jst-sh-connector-crimping-tool.html Cheap cheerful and works

                  Doug

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                  • birrellnundefined
                    birrelln
                    last edited by

                    I have been using the Engineer PA-09 crimpers for the molex connectors and have had 0 issues. No cutting or snips or other pliers needed. Does take two crimps as Allen mentioned - crimp the insulation and then crimp then then contacts.

                    That ratchet one looks easier on the pocket book though…

                    Nate

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                    • LumberjackEngineeringundefined
                      LumberjackEngineering
                      last edited by

                      @SputnikOC3d:

                      Basically I use a pair of small needle nose to pinch the part of the connector that grips the insulation of the wire just enough that it won't fall off. Then I set it on the die of the crimper so that the insulation grabbing part is in the small side and the pin that holds it into the housing is on the outside of the die. Crimp, turn the connector around so that the part that bites into the exposed wire is now on the small side with the holding pin on the outside of the die and crimp again.

                      interesting - took me a couple reads to sort out your process … what Crimping tool do you have ? I have an IWISS SN-28B. Due to its thickness/width - where the connector goes into the tool - 2 crimps is rather difficult and NOT smashing the whole lot up as trash ... Im suspecting maybe you have a different tool that is not as wide in the crimp holding area

                      I've got that same crimper - and once you figure out which direction and orientation to insert the Dupont pins/sockets in, it actually makes some solid crimps. I'll snap a couple of pictures of the way I do it when I get home today. It definitely took me a couple dozens of attempts to get it down consistently. 🙂

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                      • LumberjackEngineeringundefined
                        LumberjackEngineering
                        last edited by

                        Alright, got around to snagging some photos. I realized that I really don't have an account on a photo hosting site that's still around, so Instagram will have to do for the moment hah! Click the arrows within the picture to scroll to the different steps. Let me know if something doesn't make sense!

                        https://www.instagram.com/p/BfMrAR3H8GU/?taken-by=lumberjackengineering

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                        • EasyTargetundefined
                          EasyTarget
                          last edited by

                          @LumberjackEngineering:

                          https://www.instagram.com/p/BfMrAR3H8GU/?taken-by=lumberjackengineering

                          Excellent work! thankyou very much.

                          Disaster? The original Printeye is dying with RRF 3.5 (M208 depreciated).
                          PrintPy2024 to the rescue!
                          MicroPython based; with simple wiring and and no custom PCB.

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