Berd-Air pump configuration notes for Duet users
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@hergonoway My 2 printers are using an E3D V6 and an Ormerod Quickset II hotend. I do not have enough room under either hotend to use a larger tube that is bent in the stock ring configuration. A larger tube would not fit under either hotend after if it was bent into a circle.
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@ayudtee Standard E3D nozzle has a clearance of 5mm between the tip and the heatbock. I suppose your using these ones.
In my case I'm currently using tungsten MakerBot type of nozzle which have ~8 mm of clearance, so 1/8" should work with a E3D sock, at least I hope from my test on fusion 360.
I'll post pictures if it works #FingerCrossed
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Where in are people buying these systems in the UK?
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@doctrucker Do you have access to AliExpress?
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Never used it, no. Had a look at a couple of the shared links to that site and they were for vacuum pumps rather than posative pressure pumps with warnings about significantly reduced life spans if used to generate posative pressure?
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recently i have ordered this one https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Aiyima-Micro-Vacuum-Pump-DC12V-24V-50Kpa-Low-Noise-Large-Flow-Splitter-Separator-Diaphragm-Suction-Mini/32862878409.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.7bf64c4dkxuMgA
24v pump, but not tested it yet... it looks like berd-air one.
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Just set F25500 and it damn quiet now thanks for the tip.
But adding a thermistor (the ref given by DC42) in series doesn't work at all, at least for Berdair 24v pump.
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@hergonoway said in Berd-Air pump configuration notes for Duet users:
Just set F25500 and it damn quiet now thanks for the tip.
But adding a thermistor (the ref given by DC42) in series doesn't work at all, at least for Berdair 24v pump.
I guess that pump doesn't draw enough current to heat the thermistor up. There is probably another thermistor in a smaller size that would work. I'll order a few different types and test them.
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thanks for your help ! unfortunately my multimeter is broken, I can't give additional feedback for the moment.
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So, did anyone try the high frequency PWM with a module like this?
In my test here, using
F500and keeping the pump running at 30-40% gave me a lot of air, and not a lot of noise (I am using this on both intake and outtake), but theF25000took away my ability to control the pump speed and sounds a little higher. I haven't tested temperatures yet with the two different F values.I wonder if I should try to connect the pump directly to the DuetWifi. If there's not a lot to gain from that change in the noise department, I think keeping the module makes it safer.
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Have you cracked one of the mufflers open to see how it works?
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@bendiesel unfortunately they are all one piece injected plastic, so it's not trivial to open.
They definitely lower the noise tho.
Responding my own question: that mosfet module that I added definitely blocks the high frequency PWM trick. I took a chance and connected the 24v pump I got from markerhive and connected it directly to my duet wifi (1.02) and with the highfrequency PWM I can run it at 20-30% with minimal noise.
Lets see how many fan ports I burn on this tho
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@hurzhurz said in Berd-Air pump configuration notes for Duet users:
@msquared About the flayback diode, your link points to a 1N4007.
I have first tried this one, but it got pretty hot.
After some googling I think the reason is that the diode is just too slow for a high frequency of 25kHz (reverse recovery time of 30us).
I have replaced it by a schottky diode that doesn't get warm.Are you using a 1N4148 or something different?
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@coredump
I'm now using a MBR345 as this was the first schottky diode I got into my hands after I read that schottkys are probably more suitable for higher frequencies.And by the way, I have reduced the frequency to 20kHz so the mosfet stays a bit cooler.
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About the noise your are talking about, is it the PWM frequency you can ear, and so it disappear at 20kHz, or is it something else?
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Schottky rectifiers are more suitable for low voltage applications. Its not always the best choice because its prone to thermal runaway if its not heat sinked properly. The reverse leakage increases exponentially with temperature so it needs to be designed properly for thermal dissipation.
The preferred diode is a fast rectifier with a low forward and recovery time. There are many different types available. There SMD and also leaded parts so it depends on your application.
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Hi
Im thinking of using the Berd Air concept from components I have laying around - what is the OD/ID of the metal pipe? is it stainless? thanks!
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Standard tubing used by berdair are 3/32" OD aluminium tube.
I've personnaly switch to soft brass tube of 1/8" OD (Wall: .014") from K&S. Used a wire in the tube to bend it (honestly it's almost mandatory for larger tube) and solder the end instead of pinched it.
I don't recommend stainless tube if you want to make a tube ring with 12mm ID, because it already not so easy with softer material.
If you go over 3/32" it "may" require makerbot type nozzle which has 8mm clearance compare to 5mm clearance from E3D nozzle type, mostly for convenience especially if you use a headblock sock.
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@dc42 said in Berd-Air pump configuration notes for Duet users:
I guess that pump doesn't draw enough current to heat the thermistor up. There is probably another thermistor in a smaller size that would work. I'll order a few different types and test them.
did you have a chance to test other thermistors ?
what will be your final recommendation for DuetWiFi board 1.03+ ?
should i add any electronic components or i can safely directly connect the 24v pump to fan output of the duet board?thanks!
