My V-King Pro 3d (with belt driven z)
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@mrehorstdmd said in My V-King Pro 3d (with belt driven z):
@bartolomeus
I use a belt lifted Z axis, too. It uses an OnDrives Rino 30:1 worm gear reducer. I tried making a printed gearbox to use a cheap Chinese worm gear set, but had problems with the gear quality making it unsuitable for use in a 3D printer without some firmware mods to correct cyclic errors in print layer thickness.Ah! I read your article. After the rebuild, I haven't printed something with which I can check. Although, personally I really like the surface of the calibration cube in the pic in the first post.
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@bartolomeus The gear box I tried to build used some much larger and apparently poorer quality gears from China. I'll have to order a set of your gears and give them a try. 20:1 might be a little low for the mass I have to lift and keep from dropping but it will be worth a try. Thanks! Did the gears' dimensions match the drawing?
Can you post a photo of your gearbox?
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Just out of curiosity guys, but what if anything does a belt driven Z axis give you vs say 3 fine pitch single start screws driven by a single motor?
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@deckingman For me it's personal preference. I could not find high quality lead screws for my HEVO, and the ones from china were mostly bent. Also, for me, this frame with belts is easier to assemble, easier to align, it uses less/ smaller printed parts. It also makes it easier to build with mainly genuine parts, instead of cheap lead screws and cheap linear bearings.
@mrehorstdmd Heres a pic of the gearbox. It isn't MY gearbox, I didn't design it.
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@deckingman Belts don't come bent, so they don't cause Z wobble. I know, if you use decent quality parts and build everything correctly, Z wobble isn't a problem with screws, but the vast majority of printers are built neither correctly nor using quality parts. Since belts don't create lateral forces that cause the bed to wobble, a belt lifted Z axis should work with 8mm end-supported guide rails that would flex like wet noodles with bent lead screws (though vibrations might still cause the bed to shake). Belts are a lot cheaper than screws, and can be set up for arbitrary lengths.
Belt lifted Z axis designs benefit from worm gear reducers that increase resolution, multiply motor torque, and stop the bed from dropping when motor power is cut. Print quality depends on the quality of the gears used as flaws will repeat with every rev of the worm and disc gears.
By the time you add the cost of a worm gear reducer and the belts and pulleys, using a belt drive for the Z axis may not be any cheaper than using screws. I have about $140 in the worm gear reducer and shaft in my printer, so it might have been cheaper to use screws instead of belts. That's why I've been looking to make a worm drive unit using cheap gears. The one I made was about $40 all-in to replace that $140 Rino (surplus price $108, new price $850) and its shaft, so would make belt lifted Z axes much more practical.
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Thanks guys - I'll stick with my (unconstrained) screws though.
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If you always got leadscrews that were bent, why did you not just straighten them, it's a very simple thing to do.
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@calvinx said in My V-King Pro 3d (with belt driven z):
If you always got leadscrews that were bent, why did you not just straighten them, it's a very simple thing to do.
,.....and if the screws only provide lift (the job they are supposed to do) and aren't constrained, they won't fight with the guides and cause issues, even if they are (slightly) bent. I know this from experience after a bit of an accident ( replacement screw is on its way but the prints with one bent screw are coming out just fine)
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@deckingman I am not saying one solution is better than the other. I just like this setup and it's working very well for me.
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@bartolomeus yes that's fine. Each to there own. I was responding to other comments about bent screws. I don't see anything wrong with your belt driven z axis, equally I don't have a problem with my screw driven one. Two different ways to achieve the same thing, neither of which is better or worse than the other IMO.
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@mrehorstdmd Have you ever considered a 3d printed worm gear? Would it be strong enough and more precise than a cheap metal worm gear?
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@bartolomeus No. I'm not a fan of printed gears, especially not where precision and accuracy are needed. 3D printing can do a lot of stuff, but it can't do everything.
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@mrehorstdmd How about using mod.8 gears vs mod1? (https://kyouikugearjapan.trustpass.alibaba.com/product/50026277888-230595559/Worm_gear_shaft_Module_0_8_Stainless_steel_Made_in_Japan_KG_STOCK_GEARS.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.prewdfa4cf.1.134a236dhzD8e3)
I am very happy with my print quality, but I think thre is room for improvement. That's why I'm looking for higher quality gears. There are a few, bust most with 6mm bore shaft. These are about the only one I could find with 5mm bore.
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Hi Bart,
I'm in the middle of a V-King build myself, using a DuetWiFi controller. It would be a big help to me if you could post your config.g and bed.g files for me to look at... Would you mind posting?
Thanks in advance,
Rich.
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@richwp Sure I can do that. Although I am not sure you can use it. My build isn't stock:
- 0.9 degree stepper on x and y
- sensorless homing on x and y
- I didn't use the openbuilds cubes on the corners, so my dimensions are different
- I have direct drive now
- I home at xmax and ymax
Other than that, my bed.g is untouched, I have not use it yet.
I am working on the printer now. I'll put my config.g up later.
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Thanks - I appreciate it. I have also made a couple of the changes you mentioned as well.
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@richwp here you go: 0_1539377068245_config.g
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Great - thank you!
