Precision Piezo v1.2
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Got mine installed and so far so good. Struggled with the settings for a while but I'm starting my first print since installation. I didn't adjust the peizo board adjustment at all. The Orion seems pretty sweet. I'm not super impressed with the 3D printed parts, but they seem to work well enough.
How often is advised to refresh the heightmap.csv?
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@3dmntbighker You should probably redo the height map anytime you make adjustments to the plane of the bed, like if you adjust leveling screws. Or if you've had to disassemble anything. But generally not very often.
Based on what I see in your image I would probably rerun the heightmap at a higher grid density to see how bad that curve actually is.
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Please take a look https://youtu.be/4-SdF3FCo1s
You can see the 2nd corner is totally bad and gets not triggered right. (Very late)
Why this does only affect the 2nd point? all other points get triggered right. I lose my motivation
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@phaedrux Thanks, will do.
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@hevilp it looks like you are using a dual nozzle setup. Is that right? Do both nozzles tap the bed at the same time? I'm not sure how well the piezo behaves with that type of hotend setup. Perhaps you could email them directly for some guidance in that regard.
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@hevilp Yeah, my PEI sheet adhesive layer was a bit messed up. You can see it. I'm sure there is a bump. This is a 1/4 inch thick MIC6 aluminum fixture plate build surface BTW. Supposedly you can't get a much better flat surface. But it seems to be less flat since printing PETG at higher temperatures. I'll re-run the matrix closer to the edges with additional points. And I may tweak the trigger number a bit too. It seems to be either zero or 1000 in the interface, and I set the trigger to 600 because that seemed common among users. Good to know what that gap in the grid means.
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@phaedrux Single nozzle E3DV6 with BondTech.
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@phaedrux Here is the 256 point version
Scratch built CoreXY with Maestro
Heavily modified Ender 3 with Maestro
MPCNC work in progress with Duet WiFi -
Okay guys, I figured out my problem!
My piezo is mounted 90° to the bed. Here is my carriage. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2990895
I designed the holder for the chimera by myself and the pressure point of the carriage is a way to high for a chimera, because the chimera coolside is very small und a lot of under the pressure point of the v6 hotend. I will need another holder for the hotend. I hope this is to understand
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@hevilp glad you figured it out. The piezo reliability really depends on the carriage design. I never found one that fit my needs and so my piezo kit sits unused.
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@3dmntbighker I'm not sure what your bed surface is or how it's mounted but that looks like it's bowed a bit. If it were more uniform I would say maybe it's a mechanical issue on the y axis. If you lay a straight edge ruler across the bed can you tell there is a bow to the bed? At any rate the bed compensation should be able to take care of it.
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The "bow" in your bed may be caused by deflection of the bed when the contact point is far from the Z axis screws. This is something I've seen on my TronXY X5s, it was greatly improved when I changed the plastic Z bearing mounts to metal ones but I haven't been able to eliminate it completely yet.
Idris (Precision Piezo)
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@phaedrux I have a quarter inch 300 x 300 MIC6 aluminum plate with a 1mm PEI sheet attached with 3M adhesive. And it's 3 point spring supported over 2020. Checking with a business card the center definitely has less clearance than the edges. It seems like the plate is less flat since using 100C bed print temps. Which is odd with this kind of plate material.
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How did you mount the 3 point support? If there is no clearance to allow expansion, something will give up. How thick is your plate?
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@sigxcpu Plate is 0.25 inch thick MIC6 machined fixture plate. It sits on 5mm screws with springs and ABS mounts. Pretty sure there is enough give for expansion. The support frame is 2020/2040 with PETG lead screw mounts. It's very solid.
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I found that the easiest way to check whether the bed was bowed or flexing about the leadscrews was to remove the plate and rotate it 90 degrees. If your readings now show a bow in the other direction then the bed itself is bowed, if the bow still appears to be in the same direction then the bed itself is moving.
Idris
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how does the "new" solution look like?
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@moriquendi The next thing I plan to do is remove my PEI sheet. This will be a massive pain getting all the 3M adhesive off. Then run a probe on the bare aluminum. I'm going to try using my new PEI sheet with clips but I'm afraid I won't get the heat transfer I want. Ultimately I want a removable spring steel "Prusa-esk" sheet with PEI coating. Or at least some for of removable springy build sheet.
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@3dmntbighker if you want to try probing bate alu without removing the sheet can you turn the bed over as a test?
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I can't rotate or flip over. I have a heater stuck to the bottom with the wires on one end. I got the PEI off last night and used about half a bottle of 91% Isopropyl so far trying to get the glue off. When I went to re-probe I found that the cheap Chinese wire I used for the Piezo probe has a break somewhere. So the nozzle crashed into the bed. Until I can get some decent wire and rebuild my gantry cable I'm dead in the water.
