@nxt-1 Another interesting option/opportunity for this might be the E3D toolchanger (and derivatives). They actually use the threaded V6 heatsink for their V6 bowden tools as it gives a better mount. https://e3d-online.com/products/toolchanger-tools

@diy-o-sphere
It works more reliably than any of the other forks.
Since BTT have released the SKR-RRF-E3, they've been more interested in getting the TFT to work with RRF.
I don't know of any major bugs anyway

@fma said in Texture mapping with feltpen carousel?:

I plan to make tests with pens, as Make Anything did; it is a very easy setup...

I already figured out, only 'permanent markers' stick to PLA.
I think, I've seen the video and their process is not able to produce real textures.
You'd have to dye the filament with a timed process. I'd better like to steal the mapping algorhythm from "velocity printing" and rewrite it to add ink layer by layer.
I don't expect perfect results, but a powder printer with inkjet is a bit above my budget..Let's see how bad it is..

I think that goes too much offtopic now - I'll send you a PM 🙂

@dc42
I have the Duet 3 6hc in my open build machine, I followed your wiring scheme and used io5.
Here is my config.
firmware version 3)
; executed by the firmware on start-up
;
; generated by RepRapFirmware Configuration Tool v3.2.3 on Mon Mar 08 2021 08:53:31 GMT-0600 (Central Standard Time)

; General preferences
G90 ; send absolute coordinates...
M83 ; ...but relative extruder moves
M550 P"Colossus Openbuild" ; set printer name

; Network
M552 P0.0.0.0 S1 ; enable network and acquire dynamic address via DHCP
M586 P0 S1 ; enable HTTP
M586 P1 S0 ; disable FTP
M586 P2 S0 ; disable Telnet

; Drives
M569 P0.3 S1 ; physical drive 0.3 goes forwards
M569 P0.2 S1 ; physical drive 0.2 goes forwards
M569 P0.0 S1 ; physical drive 0.0 goes forwards
M569 P0.4 S1 ; physical drive 0.4 goes forwards
M584 X0.3 Y0.2 Z0.0:0.1 E0.4 ; set drive mapping
M671 X-122.25:689.20 Y0:0 S3.0 ; leadscrews at left (connected to Z0) and right (connected to Z1) of X axis
M350 X32 Y32 Z32 E16 I1 ; configure microstepping with interpolation
M92 X106.5 Y257 Z795.00 E339.00 ; set steps per mm
M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z60.00 E120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z180.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E250.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)
M906 X900 Y3000 Z3000 E800 I30 ; set motor currents (mA) and motor idle factor in per cent
M84 S30 ; Set idle timeout

; Axis Limits
M208 X0 Y0 Z0 S1 ; set axis minima
M208 X609 Y609 Z762 S0 ; set axis maxima

; Endstops
M574 X1 S1 P"!^io1.in" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on X via pin !^io1.in
M574 Y1 S1 P"!^io2.in" ; configure active-high endstop for low end on Y via pin !^io2.in
M574 Z1 S2 ; configure Z-probe endstop for low end on Z
M591 D0 P7 C"io5.in" L7 R55:150 E22 S1 ;Bigtree smart filament moniter v2 set to moniter between 55%-150% of 7 counts over a distance of 22mm

M591 D0 ; display filament sensor parameters for extruder drive 4
; Z-Probe
M950 S0 C"io7.out" ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
M558 P9 C"^io7.in" H5 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
G31 P100 X60 Y0 Z1.272 ; set Z probe trigger value, offset and trigger height
M557 X100:500 Y100:500 S100 ; define mesh grid

; Heaters
M308 S0 P"temp0" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 0 as thermistor on pin temp0
M950 H0 C"out1" T0 ; create bed heater output on out1 and map it to sensor 0
M307 H0 B1 S10.00 ; enable bang-bang mode for the bed heater and set PWM limit
M140 H0 ; map heated bed to heater 0
M143 H0 S110 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M308 S1 P"temp1" Y"thermistor" T100000 B4138 ; configure sensor 1 as thermistor on pin temp1
M950 H1 C"out2" T1 ; create nozzle heater output on out2 and map it to sensor 1
M307 H1 B0 S1.00 ; disable bang-bang mode for heater and set PWM limit
M143 H1 S280 ; set temperature limit for heater 1 to 280C

; Fans
M950 F0 C"out8" Q500 ; create fan 0 on pin out8 and set its frequency
M106 P0 C"Tool Fan" S0 H-1 ; set fan 0 name and value. Thermostatic control is turned off
M950 F1 C"out6" Q500 ; create fan 1 on pin out6 and set its frequency
M950 F2 C"out7" Q500 ; create fan 2 on pin out7 and set its frequency
M106 P1 C"Extruder" S1 H1 T45 ; set fan 1 name and value. Thermostatic control is turned on

; Tools
M563 P0 S"Hemera" D0 H1 F0 ; define tool 0
G10 P0 X0 Y0 Z0 ; set tool 0 axis offsets
G10 P0 R0 S0 ; set initial tool 0 active and standby temperatures to 0C

; Custom settings are not defined

; Miscellaneous
M575 P1 S1 B57600 ; enable support for PanelDue

all I needed to do was wire 3.3vdc to pin 1, io5.in to pin 3 and ground to pin 4 and it works great

@adamfilip

What wiring configuration did you end up with?

I'm considering trying out the MKS servo42 which has similar connections.

Many thanks
Barry M

@lui2004 Ah, sorry, I misunderstood. Contact Precision Piezo. According to this page https://www.precisionpiezo.co.uk/product-page/precision-piezo-orion-kit

Hotend clamps for E3D Chimera/Cyclops and Microswiss hotend under development.

Ian

@dc42
Good to know, but I had no ringing or resonance on my prints, so I didn't bother using IS at all. (can we call it 'IS' ? )
With lower stepper current, I don't see ringing become an issue. (Acceleration was 1000mm/s² during the test. Before it was 2000) I could live with that...less noise but almost no difference in print time.

Welp... as always, you guys are right. Must have had a short in the original wire because I got the new BLT and just by replacing the harness did it start to work. Let this be another lesson to everyone... if your BLtouch doesn't work, get some new wires.

I guess, it's not speed but acceleration one has to think about - then It is clearer, at least for me 🙂

Yesterday, I tried how a piezo speaker I had lying around might react by gluing one onto the frame holding my printbed, roughly where the Andromeda would be mounted if I followed my initial idea. It turned out my spings are too stiff: the bed spring would rather bend the frame if I pressed onto the bed instead of giving in - and the piezo would barely detect anything.

After some attempts on how to fit everything into the available space (my printer has just 32mm beneath the printing surface with the z-axis being at its lower limit and the printer housing, meaning 13mm for the Andromeda and the adjustment screw), as far away as possible from the heating element and still keeping the adjustment screws accessible, the whole design - with the piezos nicely covered with a housing - looks like this now:

Druckbett.png
(the thin aluminum plate is L-shaped to give it more stiffness; that is cut away in the view. So it not quite as flimsy as it might look)

While this means I will have to drill some more holes into the z-axis frame, I definitely will see a signal now whenever I tap onto the bed with something. Now It's up to finding the correct settings for sensitivity - as soon as the sensors have arrived and I have assembled all this. Some miniature coaxial cable is also ordered 🙂

When this is running, I want to find a way if I can use the Piezos as "second" z-endstop (i.e. z-endstop controlled by the piezo elements - but in case these fail for some reason, the exisiting less precise endstop detection should kick a bit above that and force the Duet to retry...) but I will open a new thread for that topic unless I find something here in the forum.

DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Often it is the obvious mistake that will only get picked up by another set of eyes.

Thank you Phaedrux it is all working as advertised again.

Is this still happening?
Can we get an update

@Phaedrux

i updated the first post with a link to the image. sorry about the quality of the first one. didn't know it was bad. i read somewhere that a duet2 running RRF3 wont work. however, there was a testDWA.py file inside the TAMV folder that was able to detect my duet2wifi RRF3 board when i entered my IP manually and it was able to display the correct X Y and Z position which i found was odd considering my machine is not a duet2 on RRF2 or duet3 on RRF3.

@nedmo

Glad to hear you got it sorted.

Frederick

You can find high temperature inductive sensors. Probably high temp simple switches as well.

http://www.ia.omron.com/products/family/1866/

Thanks. I do have an account from a while back. I'll try access it. I have access to CAD through my job

Thats great i'll give that a try, just asnt sure if there was an order in the code that meant it had to be a specific place 🙂

I wonder how feasible it would be to do a dual extruder version of this conversion. Is there a mirrored version of the Hemera?

precision piezo is probably the best I've tried, just very stressful... building a 3d printer is already stressful per se, so at the end I decided to just use a high precision switch (the head catches it with magnets). Very happy with it.

@Hiroaki Sorry again.
I have also checked both files in my 1st printer.
Both values were correct.
I can't get when it's changed in my second printer....
Thank you very much!

Non-sense. Happens to the best of us.

Hi, I know this problem is quite old, but I finally found out how to solve this, and did not know where else to share it. The piezo signal is very sensitive to electromagnetic interferences. The solution is to shorten this wire as much as possible and as far as possible from the power wires (heater, stepper motors...). A shielded wire may help maybe. So as a conclusion, place the PCB amplifier as close as possible to the piezos and protect the link between the piezos and the amplifier from electromagnetic fields as much as possible.

Also, here is the schematic i have made (pardon the sideways power ports):
c32e1843-6e5a-4b23-946d-d8d8ba3da4a4-image.png

@chop with s1 its enabled. Without anything ots disabled