Will give the M280 Px S160 command a shot next time it happens.
Have an original Antlabs and the latest of the latest (came with a just-assembled Railcore kit). Since they seem to upgrade them very frequently (no complaints) it's quite hard to get consistent information. One of the things that might put it into failure mode is manually moving an axis thence pumping electrical noise into the duet. Actually find that unplugging the wires more effective than turning off the printer as there seems to be enough residual electricity in the Duet to maintain the probe's state for some time.
Looking closer at the LCD board there is a light controlling circuit that seems to be either "always on" or press a button for a preset period of light set by a trimpot. I figure cut a few traces, solder a few jumpers and could get control over the lighting and the button as input to RepRap firmware.
But seems that the only PWM capable pin is shared between the SERVO and Z_PROBE_IN so no dimming, and currently only end stops support triggers i.e. no dice on the switch as an input, for now. On/off would work, but no means of getting user inputs. Maybe revisit in 3.0 unless 2.04 get support for general i/o triggers first.
Filing the sketch under wishful thinking for now:
@moriquendi said in Precision Piezo PT1000 sensor?:
Is that a recent firmware feature?
RepRapFirmware for the Duet WiFi, Ethernet and Maestro have always had the correct default values. The Duet 06/085 has the default set to 1K because the Duet 06 originally used 1K resistors, but that was changed to 4.7K in later Duet 06 boards and in the Duet 085.
@bluedust said in OctoPrint as Canvas... Error Connecting to Duet:
I am guessing that everyone else who got this working and told me that it just worked, already had this set....
Very likely. I think it's the default in the configurator.
@armageddon528 babystepping? Laziness and force of habit... TBH I'm just really used to doing it that way. I have my babystepping increments set to 0.02mm and I do actually use Z-Probe offset as well, I just can't help but tweak things a little bit anyway... But yes, I'm also confident I could ignore babystepping and get great prints.
The Maestro already measures the VIN voltage. It also has an extra thermistor input (4 in total), so you can already measure chamber temperature.
To control your LEDs, if it is just one single colour LED string then if you have a spare extruder heater output or fan output, you can use that.
If you do need to communicate with another board, then I suggest you use either the I2C pins or the UART pins on the expansion connector.
in my case, i have find it the solution....
In some points of bed, i have hard taps when usin PPO...
Some days ago... i changed config.g.... seems the same, but no. Steps for mm, was changed... This caused that head dont move spected, causing hard taps, and problems with prints, as after 20 layers, nozzle touch printed...
Recalibrate steps for mm.
The method used.... bufff. Someone knows how calibrate of precise maner?
Found it! I had the Z probe pins crossed at one of the interconnects, just goes to show that I shouldn't wire things late at night. I have multiple JST connections at each end so I can quickly and easily swap probes if I want to as I have an inductive, mini IR, and BLTouch. Too many connections and color changes when I'm tired...
Thanks for the feedback, it really helped!
@jhonf441 said in Pt100 2 cables en configuración 4 cables.:
Tengo un sensor pt100 de dos cables cuyo largo es 1 metro, quiero saber si así puedo usar la configuración de 4 cables que esta en la wiki o tengo que recortar los cables? Y cual es la medida recomendada?
Using 1m cables with a PT100 will cause the temperature to over-read a little. How much depends on the thickness (hence resistance) of the cables. If it read more than a few degC too high when the hot end end is at room temperature, then use a 4-wire connection.
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