Duet Wifi setup - need help
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Okay, thank you. I found the files on the SD card. I'm assuming the Ormerod 2 would be the best choice for a cartesian printer with single motors on X, Y, and Z? Sorry for the newbie questions.
It'll be a good start. Also, there is a web page for making the config files: https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/ Use the custom configuration.
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There is also a set of files for a Prusa i3 at https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/tree/dev/SD-image/sys-Prusai3. It's intended for the Duet 0.8.5, so for the Duet WiFi you should remove the commands to set the network MAC address, IP address, gateway and network mask.
If instead you start from the Ormerod files, you will need to adjust the M574 and M558 commands in config.g to use an X endstop switch, because the Ormerod uses an IR sensor for both X and Z homing.
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Thanks for the help, guys. Using http://duetwifi.local worked…one problem solved!
I looked at the Ormerod and it looked like it was missing stuff so seemed easier to go back to the original Mini Kossel config.g and edit that. Would I just need to comment the M665 so it's disabled? Anything else I should comment out?
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Another question for when I get it all up and running the printer…do you think it would be okay to have the board inside a metal enclosure with just the wifi antenna sticking out? My wifi signal is fairly good where the printer is located.
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Yes, that should be OK. You may wish to protect the protruding antenna from damage with a printed cover.
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Thank you. I plan to do just that.
There are some M-codes in my current controller's configuration that are not listed in the config.g. I'm assuming it's okay to add stuff as needed? I guess it's mostly just the PID settings that I had been using, M301.
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I don't advise starting from the Mini Kossel files for a Cartesian printer because too many things need to change. Try the online configuration tool. During initial testing, it's useful to reduce the motor currents and homing speeds, to reduce the risk of damage if you don't get the files quite right.
For PID settings, things changed with the 1.15 release. See https://duet3d.com/wiki/Tuning_the_heater_temperature_control.
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Where can I find the online configuration tool?
Can I use this for my PID settings? It's what I was using before and, while not perfect, it worked well enough.
M301 H1 P30 I0.02 D150
M304 H0 P10 I0.02 D305 -
You will need to change the PID settings as described in the page I linked to. Another user linked to the configuration tool a few posts back.
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Thanks, I'm not sure how I missed that…I'm in the process of using the configuration tool and have some questions.
1. I'm assuming to set Reprap for the firmware compatibility? I'm just confused as the default config.g file says set output to look like Marlin.
2. The settings I pulled from my old control board for acceleration was this:
M201 X800 Y800 Z20 E10000
Do these settings sound right and should I use them in the configurator?3. I don't understand the tool mapping page. Do I need to set anything here? The printer is a simple cartesian printer with heated bed and a single nozzle.
4. What should my motor currents be set to? I'm installing the Duet Wifi into a Monoprice Mini Select and it uses JKong JK42HS34-1334AC-02F motors on X, Y, and extruder. The Z-axis motor is a weird round can motor with no markings.
JKong motor specs:
Current/phase 1.33 amps
Resistance/phase 2.1 ohms
Inductance/phase 2.5mH -
1.) Either should be OK, I'd probably stick with Marlin.
2.) Those settings are reasonable
3.) Should be fine leaving as is
4.) I'd do the defaults (800mA)That should get you up and running, you can tweak from there.
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Thanks! Any idea why the z-axis acceleration is so low and the extruder so high?
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Your extruder acceleration looks rather high to me, although it may be OK if it is a direct drive extruder with only about 100 steps/mm. I suggest you reduce it to 3000.
It's normal to use a low Z acceleration when the Z axis is driven by a threaded rod and has a very high steps/mm.
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Good morning!
The extruder is a bowden type with a relatively short tube length, i.e. small printer. Steps/mm is 406.
The z-axis is driven by a finely threaded rod and is 1097 steps/mm.
I wish to integrate the infrared sensor, mine is a v1,1 version, I believe. As stock, the printer has a microswitch for the z-axis. Do I understand correctly that I do not use this micro switch for the z any longer?
Sounds like it's time for me to cut off the many JST style connectors from my printer and attach the Molex type. I have been holding off until I figured out enough about the Duet Wifi so as to minimize my down time.
Thanks again for all the help!
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Your extruder evidently has gearing of around 3:1, so you should definitely reduce the extruder acceleration to 1000-3000 until you have time to test what it is capable of.
If you use the IR probe for Z homing on a Cartesian or CoreXY printer, then you don't need a Z microswitch. But you don't need to disconnect it either, so you may as well leave it in place and connected for now. That will give you a choice of how to do Z homing.
I assume your JST connectors are the ones with a pitch finer than 2.54mm, not the Molex-compatible ones.
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Hello,
Yes, you are correct, I'm using a E3D Titan extruder. Thank you, I will follow your advice.
The JST connectors seem to have the same pin spacing but I think the holes the pins go into are smaller? I tried to push them on but they didn't seem to want to go. Didn't want to break anything. Should they fit enough for testing? I'm thinking I really need to extend all the wiring as it's looking pretty tight in the enclosure and perhaps I should mount the Duet outside.
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Ah, I should look closer before typing! The JST connectors indeed will fit onto the Duet board. The stepper motor wire coloring does not match up though. I am assuming it will be okay and rotation direction can be changed by editing the config.g?
Duet colors are - red/blue/green/black
Current wiring will be - green/black/red/blue
I do show resistance between the green/black and red/blue pairs so I assume this is all normal and will work. -
Okay…for some reason, I thought if you connect 12v to the board, you should not connect the USB simultaneously? Is this correct?
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I have everything wired up and 12v applied to the board. The LEDs are lit up but I don't really know what they mean. I can connect to the board via the web interface, but cannot connect in my slicer (Simplify3D). I'm assuming I need to connect the USB cable? If so, do I need to move a jumper beforehand?
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I've read the Wiki again and it's not clear to me. I don't want to feed power back into my computer if I connect the USB. Puzzled…
