Large all-metal Kossel Delta
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I am going to do the Same
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I've moved my spool holder to the top between the towers, it really doesn't work on the side in this configuration. The only annoyance is when it homes after printing is finsihed the free filament that was pulled out when the extruder was at its lowest position now twists and kinks as it comes back up. Haven't come up with a fix for that except a spool holder that can wind the slack back on in some way, maybe a light spring with a delicate clutch.
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I run a loose ptfe tube from the spool to the entry to the extruder, which I bundle with the wiring harness going down to the effector (I have a direct drive on my effector). Works well at keeping the filament untangled, clean, etc.
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Bots plan sounds good. It works for the bowden tube so would also work in this situation.. you might need another point on the frame to be the other end of the tube, like the mini kossel filament guide or similar
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If I were to do it again (I'm using 1.75 mm filament keep in mind), I would get the size PTFE tube that they use for 3mm filament, so there was as little resistance as possible. I use a 2mm one now, and when the filament is really kinky (wrinkled not
) or I've approached the end of the roll and it's really tight, it adds unnecessary friction into the process. I also don't have it attached at the top; the top end of the tube can sometimes come in direct contact with the spool. almost wrapping itself around it. I find this helps keeping the spool spooled, and tidy, without the filament flying off like crazy.I would, however, prefer to secure the lower portion precisely above where it is fed into the extruder, possibly even reducing the tube to the 2 mm variety for the last 5-10 mm or so, to guide it. Right now, it kinda just "finds" its way in there, and I think the precision of the extrusion can be slightly improved by fixing the entry point better.
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I've always found that whenever I've made spool holders with bearings the filament comes off them much less well, more prone to slip a loop off the reel and spin back and forth, a little bit of friction with the spool holder helps.
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Looking good Can I ask what elastic your using for the Flying Extruder?
Doug
I recommend using this stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/Stretch-Magic-Stretchy-Beading-Clear/dp/B0058E7WOA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474310375&sr=8-2&keywords=stretch+elastic+beading+cordbeen using it on mine for years, seems fine! its a type of TPU…
good looking build by the way!!!!
I think you would also enjoy my build...
https://www.duet3d.com/forum/thread.php?id=187
its about the same size
~Russ
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Looks good Russ. Wonderfully detailed build - and you really did build it and make almost everything. I just bought a bunch of stuff and bolted it together. When I get chance I will watch through your videos.
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Thanks, something about making all the parts, yeah it takes a lot of time but now i can say " i made that" lol there is always something tho like the electronics that are just much better to buy…
also i have a question. my kids got a hold of my printer and ran the arms up and down, breaking some of course. but what ever lol it happens...
my question is do your motors at a stand still at 100% power squeal ?
I ran the Wifi Duet previously but only got about 2 use's out of it and i cant remember if the motor had that bad squeal.
the reason i ask is i know the kids ran those rail's up and down and drove a lot of power in to the drivers... go figure. so i was wanting some one else to confirm that there motors don't make a squeal sound when parked at full power... they still run fine and quiet too but now i'm worried that the drivers may be damaged...
Thanks!!
~Russ
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My motors make a high pitched noise when powered up and holding at 100% but its not particularly distressing either that or my ears are old enough that its barely audible to me. My understanding of the stepper drivers is that they have a lot of built in protection so they will shut down to protect themselves and the motors if they are repeatedly asked to perform movements at speeds that are dangerous.
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Well I never thought I'd see this:
16:15:37Stopped at height -0.150 mm
16:15:31G32
Calibrated 8 factors using 10 points, deviation before 2.630 after 0.001
16:15:00G28
16:07:55G10 P0 S130
16:07:52M140 S85
16:07:49Connection established!
16:07:45Page Load complete!That's only probing the central 100mm of my kossel XL bed, with my piezo probe using an experimental build surface on glass, but deviation 0.001 - happy with that would be one way of putting it.
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(thumbs up emoji)!
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@DjDemonD Can you try 20-30 random points instead of 10?
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I can but is there a quick way to do this? or are you defining the 30 random points manually? If so I really don't have the time.
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I'm using simple PHP script to generate random points inside bed. If you are familiar with php I can post script, if not - I can post bed probe g-code file for your bed dimensions.
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Sure Ill try it, if you can post a bed.g file. I am using a 100mm diameter (I have a 300mm diameter bed but I often only probe the inner 100mm for printing small objects. I can't quite get down to the 0.001 levels with the 300mm diameter.
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Please add Sx (x = number of factors) to latest line you want to use:
For 100mm bed diameter
For 150mm bed diameter
For 200mm bed diameter
For 300mm bed diameter -
Okay thanks I'll run some of these later. What sort of results have you seen so far?
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You are using 10-point 8-factor calibration.
I just think that the smaller the number of points for calibration the easier it is to get perfect results. For example, using 3-point 8-factor calibration you will get perfect results with any sensor.
That's why I asked about 20-30 points.
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100mm Run 1
18:56:18 G32
Calibrated 8 factors using 64 points, deviation before 0.089 after 0.011Run 2
18:58:43 G32
Calibrated 8 factors using 64 points, deviation before 0.026 after 0.007Run 3
19:00:51 G32
Calibrated 8 factors using 64 points, deviation before 0.010 after 0.009So its an order of magnitude less precise when probing 64 points rather than 10. However its still achieving at best 0.007mm deviation, so its still a very accurate machine (should be cost me enough money, and even more time) plus the piezo probe is very accurate and repeatable.
Using AndOrNot experimental build surface, e3dv6 and Precision Piezo 27mm piezo sensor in Lykle/Zesty design assembly.
