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    Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...

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    • dc42undefined
      dc42 administrators @TLeTourneau
      last edited by

      @tletourneau said in Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...:

      @dc42 OT but do you think this paint would work with the mini differential IR sensor?

      Rust-Oleum Specialty 12 oz. High Heat Satin Bar-B-Que Black Spray Paint
      https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Specialty-12-oz-High-Heat-Satin-Bar-B-Que-Black-Spray-Paint-7778830/202315061

      Probably, although matt black would be better than satin.

      Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
      Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
      http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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      • mrehorstdmdundefined
        mrehorstdmd @TLeTourneau
        last edited by

        @tletourneau I get Teflon from a local supplier, Midland Plastics. They have a commercial showroom where they sell cut-offs of all sorts of plastics and composites. When I go there, about twice each year, I always check for small Teflon scraps and buy them even if I don't have an immediate use for them. Teflon is very easy to machine and its slipperiness and moderately high temperature tolerance make it useful for all sorts of things.

        Someone at the Makerspace works at a company that makes industrial electrical controls and they use a lot of Torlon. He brings bags full of cut-off pieces to the Makerspace for people to use. It's very difficult to machine, but it's very strong and withstands high temperatures.

        https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/

        TLeTourneauundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
        • TLeTourneauundefined
          TLeTourneau @mrehorstdmd
          last edited by

          @mrehorstdmd thanks! Did you tap where the bolts go into the side of the plate? Also, what size bolts did you use for the bed spring retention? If I missed it in the blog post I apologize. The plate I ordered is 3/8" thick.

          Thanks,
          Tom

          TronXY X5S-500 (CoerXY)
          Duet 2 Ethernet v1.04
          Firmware Version: 2.02(RTOS) (2018-12-24b1)
          Web Interface Version: 1.22.6
          7" PanelDue
          E3D V6 Clone
          MOSFET's for hot end
          1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
          dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch

          mrehorstdmdundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
          • mrehorstdmdundefined
            mrehorstdmd @TLeTourneau
            last edited by

            @tletourneau If you're referring to the screws that hold the plate-end of the hold-down springs, yes, they are tapped. I used #6-32 screws. The bolts that hold the other end of the hold down springs go into the axial holes in the bed support. They are 5/16-18 tapped holes and screws.

            In SoM, which I recently upgraded to a line powered heater and kinematic mount, instead of drilling into the edge of the bed plate (only 1/4" thick), I made the ears wider and drilled through the plate and tapped the holes. Like this:
            alt text

            https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/

            TLeTourneauundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
            • TLeTourneauundefined
              TLeTourneau @mrehorstdmd
              last edited by

              @mrehorstdmd thanks again! I'm going to try a slightly modified version of the kinematic mount. I'm going to have it mounted to 2020 with the ball screws and springs across the front and back of the plate. We'll see how it goes, the plate shipped out today so I should have it tomorrow or Monday. The heater shipped from China today as well so that should be here in a week or two (I hope).

              Thanks,
              Tom

              TronXY X5S-500 (CoerXY)
              Duet 2 Ethernet v1.04
              Firmware Version: 2.02(RTOS) (2018-12-24b1)
              Web Interface Version: 1.22.6
              7" PanelDue
              E3D V6 Clone
              MOSFET's for hot end
              1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
              dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch

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              • Wyvernundefined
                Wyvern
                last edited by

                So I adhered the glass to my heated bed, got it level-ish, looked closely and the bed is warped pretty badly.

                713 maker just ran out of stock on the milled bed, go figure.

                So the question is, should I go SSR or with the Keenevo controller? I found a 300W silicone mat (I don't need crazy heat-up times)

                Phaedruxundefined TLeTourneauundefined 2 Replies Last reply Reply Quote 0
                • Phaedruxundefined
                  Phaedrux Moderator @Wyvern
                  last edited by

                  @wyvern what is the keenovo controller?

                  Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

                  TLeTourneauundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • TLeTourneauundefined
                    TLeTourneau @Phaedrux
                    last edited by

                    @phaedrux Keenovo offers an external temperature controller.

                    Thanks,
                    Tom

                    TronXY X5S-500 (CoerXY)
                    Duet 2 Ethernet v1.04
                    Firmware Version: 2.02(RTOS) (2018-12-24b1)
                    Web Interface Version: 1.22.6
                    7" PanelDue
                    E3D V6 Clone
                    MOSFET's for hot end
                    1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
                    dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch

                    1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • Wyvernundefined
                      Wyvern
                      last edited by

                      It's a little self-contained heat controller and timer, no wiring to the Duet at all.

                      The problem I see with it is the inability to set the bed temp with G-code, the upside is the reduction in wiring and since it's remote, no chance of it damaging the due... unless it decides to start on fire.

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                      • TLeTourneauundefined
                        TLeTourneau @Wyvern
                        last edited by TLeTourneau

                        @wyvern I went with a SSR, I prefer to let the Duet control the temperature. It is really useful for prints like some of the ABS where I drop the bed temp after a few layers.

                        Thanks,
                        Tom

                        TronXY X5S-500 (CoerXY)
                        Duet 2 Ethernet v1.04
                        Firmware Version: 2.02(RTOS) (2018-12-24b1)
                        Web Interface Version: 1.22.6
                        7" PanelDue
                        E3D V6 Clone
                        MOSFET's for hot end
                        1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
                        dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch

                        1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                        • Wyvernundefined
                          Wyvern
                          last edited by

                          I've heard of the SSR throwing high peak voltages during SSR deactivation/off cycling.

                          But usually that is with shutting down actual coils- so maybe that is bad information.

                          Phaedruxundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • Phaedruxundefined
                            Phaedrux Moderator @Wyvern
                            last edited by

                            @wyvern I'd go with a Duet controlled SSR. Something like:
                            https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=288

                            I'd worry about forgetting to turn on or off a seperate controller. Might as well let the Duet automate it with Gcode.

                            Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                            • Wyvernundefined
                              Wyvern
                              last edited by

                              Any success with PID tuning?

                              Phaedruxundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                              • Phaedruxundefined
                                Phaedrux Moderator @Wyvern
                                last edited by

                                @wyvern said in Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...:

                                Any success with PID tuning?

                                Me? Yes, I have a 310mm ish square 6mm MIC6 plate with 600w 290mm ish silicone heater RTV siliconed to the plate and SSR. PID tuning it had no issues.

                                Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                                • TLeTourneauundefined
                                  TLeTourneau
                                  last edited by TLeTourneau

                                  I'll be interested in how my PID turns out. Mine will be a 500x500mm and 3/8" (9.525mm) thick ATP 5 cast plate with a 450x450mm 1000 watt 120v SSR controlled heater with a 1/4" (6.35mm) glass plate on it.

                                  Thanks,
                                  Tom

                                  TronXY X5S-500 (CoerXY)
                                  Duet 2 Ethernet v1.04
                                  Firmware Version: 2.02(RTOS) (2018-12-24b1)
                                  Web Interface Version: 1.22.6
                                  7" PanelDue
                                  E3D V6 Clone
                                  MOSFET's for hot end
                                  1000w Keenovo with SSR for heat bed
                                  dc42 Mini IR Sensor or BLTouch

                                  1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                  • gtj0undefined
                                    gtj0
                                    last edited by gtj0

                                    Keenovo sells versions of their heaters with a controller ...
                                    https://www.keenovo.com/Keenovo-Digital-Controller-Manual.pdf

                                    I don't know what the temperature tolerance is on them but it'd seem like extra expense and just one more point of failure. I'd stick with an SSR and let the Duet control the temperature.

                                    oops, this was a late response 🙂

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                                    • Wyvernundefined
                                      Wyvern
                                      last edited by

                                      So I got's the stuff, I ordered a 13X13 ATP-5 1/4 cast plate from Midwest metals for $45 shipped. The MIC6 was more expensive $35 BUT another $35 to cut + $10 shipping, one other place wanted $93 just for a slice!

                                      I ordered the 300W mat and a SSR. So it's like $115 for the setup, but there is no way I'm spending another $40 on a replacement heated bed that will warp in a month.

                                      My question now is do I use the 8 mounting holes that was stock, or just 4? I feel the use of extra thumb screws was due to the warp of the cheaper heated bed.

                                      I will not be probing this bed, and I don't trust myself to accurately drill a 3 hole setup, so the most accurate manual leveling is a must.

                                      I just hope all my hardware for the 12mm Z rods come at the same time (ditching the wimpy 8mm crap)

                                      Phaedruxundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                      • Phaedruxundefined
                                        Phaedrux Moderator @Wyvern
                                        last edited by

                                        @wyvern said in Yet another cast aluminum plate topic...:

                                        My question now is do I use the 8 mounting holes that was stock, or just 4?

                                        The FT5 mounting holes are trying to make up for a flimsy bed. With a stiff bed a 3 point system is ideal. Don't worry about drilling accuracy, it really won't matter as long as you're in the ballpark. It's far easier to get 3 points level than 4 points.

                                        Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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                                        • Wyvernundefined
                                          Wyvern
                                          last edited by Wyvern

                                          I'm thinking of forgoing the counter sunk holes, I think using them may cause things to be over restrained when it heats up.

                                          Instead I'm thinking of using slightly oversize holes and aluminum washers (the washers are countersunk and the bottoms are flat) so long as tension and weight are enough to keep it from wriggling around.

                                          Phaedruxundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                                          • Phaedruxundefined
                                            Phaedrux Moderator @Wyvern
                                            last edited by

                                            @wyvern I've done a 3 point countersunk mount on mine. It's not up to the level of a kinematic mount, but it hasn't seemed to have a noticeable impact on first layer printing.

                                            Originally I had intended to have two of the holes along the side to keep the pivot point along the center of the bed, but then there was a bit of instability, so I went with two corners and the opposite center. I was also going to use bolts with round heads to allow for some adjustment, but the screws were expensive and when the M4 bolts worked fine I didn't bother.

                                            One corner is set static as reference, and the other two are pitch and roll.

                                            1_1548533075249_IMG_2348.JPG 0_1548533075248_IMG_0501.JPG

                                            Drilling wasn't too bad. It just took some patience. I used progressively larger bits and slowly reamed out the holes. I used a drop of oil each time which helped keep the chips from getting everywhere if nothing else.

                                            Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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