First Hevo - need some setup guidance.
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Thank you, that got me going.
X, Y and Z are all moving as expected now.
Having an issue with NO micro switch/pcb endstops, I have mine wired as NO, LED on Duet lights up when I press the switch yet, the carriage will crash. Also testing via web interface confirms the switch status is not changing.
Firmware is setup with M574 X1 Y1 S0 which as I understand it mean NO...
What could cause the LED to light up when the switch is pressed, yet the duet to not stop movement while homing?
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@tsitalon1 said in First Hevo - need some setup guidance.:
Thank you, that got me going.
X, Y and Z are all moving as expected now.
Having an issue with NO micro switch/pcb endstops, I have mine wired as NO, LED on Duet lights up when I press the switch yet, the carriage will crash. Also testing via web interface confirms the switch status is not changing.
Firmware is setup with M574 X1 Y1 S0 which as I understand it mean NO...
What could cause the LED to light up when the switch is pressed, yet the duet to not stop movement while homing?
Please post your config.g file and your homing files.
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Here they are:
0_1548850327475_config.g
4_1548850327475_homez.g
3_1548850327475_homey.g
2_1548850327475_homex.g
1_1548850327475_homeall.gI have only tried to home X so far, fails miserably.
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As they are PCB endstops, do they have any other components on the PCB apart from the microswitch, such an an LED that lights up when the switch is triggered? If yes, they probably needs to be wired differently, see https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_endstop_switches#Section_Makerbot_Mechanical_Endstop_v1_Num_2.
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Yep, these units:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTB7WMKStill confused, do I need to connect all 3 wires like the Makerbot units then?
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@tsitalon1 said in First Hevo - need some setup guidance.:
Yep, these units:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTB7WMKStill confused, do I need to connect all 3 wires like the Makerbot units then?
Yes, those look like clones of the Makerbot.
Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com -
trigger the endstop manualy and check the endstop status with M119
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Still at work, so I haven't tried the above yet, can I just switch to load sensing with a CoreXY setup?
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@dc42 said in First Hevo - need some setup guidance.:
@tsitalon1 said in First Hevo - need some setup guidance.:
Yep, these units:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTB7WMKStill confused, do I need to connect all 3 wires like the Makerbot units then?
Yes, those look like clones of the Makerbot.
Working, Thank you!
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Getting great results with one caveat:
20mm cube print, one edge is bulging all the way up the print, only one edge.
I've played with Jerk/Acceleration to no avail, also tried adjusting Extruder steps, and random seam yet problem persists. Printing at 60mm/s / 30mm/sec External perms.
using Slic3r 1.42.0 Alpha 2, any help would be appreciated!
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Could be oozing when it goes to the next layer..maybe try increasing your z-axis speed, acceleration and jerk in the config file.
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Found that changing to a random seam, simply moved this issue all over the model in random spots.
It's definitely related to layer changes, I've increased retraction to 7 and retraction speed to 90mm, my next test is to enable retraction on layer change.
I am using a somewhat long bowden setup, roughly 750mm tube..
I''ll try upping the Z axis Speed as well.
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@tsitalon1 said in First Hevo - need some setup guidance.:
enable retraction on layer change
I think you definitely want that.
That is a quite long bowden tube, which will make this problem difficult to resolve. Bulging and blobbling like this at the layer seam is usually due to the time it takes to transition from one layer to another. The solution is to make the transition as quick as possible so that the filament doesn't have time to ooze out.
Z axis speed, retraction speed, and acceleration values need to be fairly high. And pressure advance will be critical to reducing the pressure at the nozzle enough to allow the retraction to prevent ooze.
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Where can I learn more about pressure advance on the Duet?
Is it enabled by default, is there a guide to follow?
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With that long a bowden tube I would start pressure advance at a value around .7 I use .55 on my Ender 3 printer when printing PLA and .95 when printing petg.
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enable retract on layer change.
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Tried all combinations above and everything I can think of, switched to Capricorn XS which helped.
I'm getting incredible quality on all prints except this damn cube....
Look at the corners, this is only happening on 2 points.
Bottom right on Y side
Top Left on X side:
All other corners are fine.
I noticed this happens above/below the indented Character but not inline with the character on the side.
Pictures above are with Retraction of 6mm @220mm/s with pressure advance of M572 D0 S0.1. I didn't see much improvement with higher PA and/or retract on layer change enabled.
Any help would be appreciated.
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It happens above and below the letters because the slicer is able to hide the seam on the inside corners of the indented letters. Above and below it has no choice but to place the seam on the sharpest corner.
Fortunately most models aren't cubes and there are usually better places to hide the layer seam. Sometimes it's best to align it into a single vertical line to keep from having little scars everywhere.
The seam can be minimized but it never really goes away. It's up to you to manage it and tell the slicer where you prefer to place it.
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That's the funny part - I have Slic3r configured to align the seam.
I'll take a pic with radom seam to see the difference.
