Choosing a suitable power supply

snoozer

Just to add, heater pads with adhesive may not hold up as well as factory bonded heaters. I have read in a number of places that the adhesive can be an issue at higher temperatures. So for a 24V bed I would try to get a PCB heater type, for a mains powered bed a factory vulcanised heater on aluminium.

Jan.

snoozer

@pedromelim

Just out of curiosity, what Hotend are you planning to use ? I am just interested in anything regarding the V-Core. I have a topic here that I extend as it go along.

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/9465/core-xy-based-on-rat-rig-v-core-and-duet-2-ethernet

THX
Jan

mrehorstdmd

@phaedrux said in Choosing a suitable power supply:

Here's a good example bed build from @mrehorstdmd
https://drmrehorst.blogspot.com/2017/07/ultra-megamax-dominator-3d-printer-bed.html

I don't recommend mounting the TCO on the bed plate as I did in the page you linked. The adhesive that holds the heater on the bed is starting to let go after about 2 years. If the heater ever falls away from the bed plate the TCO won't do its job. I'll be moving the TCO soon...

I recently put a kinematic mount and new bed in SoM and mounted the TCO on the heater using a blob of high temperature silicone. That's the safer way to do it, I think. When I rework the heater in UMMD I'll probably stick the heater to the plate using the same high temperature silicone.

wilriker

@mrehorstdmd said in Choosing a suitable power supply:

I recently put a kinematic mount and new bed in SoM and mounted the TCO on the heater using a blob of high temperature silicone. That's the safer way to do it, I think.

That's also the way how Keenovo does it if you order the heater with a TCO. Or actually they put it under another layer of silicone but that's essentially the same.

Phaedrux

@mrehorstdmd Right. Good warning. Was that with the 3M adhesive sheets or was it bonded with RTV silicone? I can't remember. I've bonded my heater pad with RTV silicone, that should last a lot longer than a sticker sheet. I remember seeing your post about the PEI sheet lifting when the 3M sheet lost it's bond.

snoozer

@phaedrux

Hi, could you elaborate regarding RTV Silicone ? I am suspicious about adhesives and would be interested to know more. Do you by any chance have a link to a product ?

Thanks
Jan

Phaedrux

I used this: https://www.amazon.ca/Rutland-600-Degree-Silicone-2-7-Ounce-Super/dp/B004YEBWTG/ref=sr_1_34?crid=1ESRUA3CQI4NP&keywords=rtv+silicone&qid=1552499348&s=gateway&sprefix=rtv+sil%2Caps%2C171&sr=8-34

But there are many options and types. It's also called gasket maker.

I cleaned both the aluminum and heating pad thoroughly, then applied a thin layer of the silicone, then used a rolling pin to slowly roll on the pad. Added a bead around the edges of the pad to seal them in, and then placed it on a flat surface with a flat board over it and several rolls of filament on top to press it down. Left it to cure for a day. It's been going fine for about a year of daily use.

You can see pictures of it in the link in my signature.

mrehorstdmd

@phaedrux I used the adhesive that came on the Keenovo heater- it's 3M 468MP. It holds with temperature cycling for about 2 years then seems to dry out and let go.

@snoozer You can get high temperature silicone at auto parts stores for about $5-6 for a tube.

snoozer

I figured out by now RTV is an abbreviation lol, I thought its a brand so. Have found a number of brands and types...... Thanks for the responses however !

Jan

Phaedrux

@snoozer room temperature vulcanization is a mouthful.

pedromelim

@snoozer im gonna use a spare e3d v6.1 i think...the ones used on the original prusa...got a spare one hehe

After much thought and some more research, i decided to go 24v instead of mains (220v).

For both safety and the simplicity of everything.

The RSP-500-24 will do just fine, as i found that is used on the lulzbot taz 6wich used a silicone heated bed rated at 360w.
The heated bed will probably be the same as the taz 6.

Difference in price from one way to the other is around 25€ and i much prefer paying a bit extra for the simplicity of the system.

Tks everyone for the input on the matter.

snoozer

@pedromelim

After much reading and a bunch of good an plausible advice I also give a silicone heater under a substantial aluminium plate a go. I stay with 230 AC, I am qualified electrician (in a former life) so no worries about mains. Did you order the V-Core including the printed parts ? the hotend mount is designed for a v6 I think. I have spend all last WE to make a Titan Aero mount, only done it in PLA with little infill as test. Still don't have the kit to put it on actually. I like to have it detachable and keep the belt tensioner attached. I split the mount. Intend to be able to manually change between hotends and also service it easy. Maybe able to use a laser as well.......... that's for future.

Jan

PuterPro

@snoozer said in Choosing a suitable power supply:

I split the mount. Intend to be able to manually change between hotends and also service it easy.

I did a rework of this mount, in Fusion 360: E3D V6 Hinged Extruder Bracket & Clamp for my little Monoprice Select v2. It's pretty kludgy so I didn't post my rework, but I have all the wires on plugs and can change the v6 clone on it in about 30 seconds. (Went with genuine v6 Gold for my CR-10S)

Kinda cool to have a hinge.

@pedromelim - Good luck with your project, keep us posted!