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    Upgrading CR-10S Steppers & PS to 24v Suggested Z replacement

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    • Phaedruxundefined
      Phaedrux Moderator
      last edited by Phaedrux

      27v is really high. 25v is the limit.
      Why are you putting so much voltage through it?

      Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

      genghisnico13undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • genghisnico13undefined
        genghisnico13 @Phaedrux
        last edited by

        @phaedrux Because the limit for the maestro is 28V and the factory motors are high inductance, to the point that the chopper frequency is still in the audible range even at the max voltage.

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        • Phaedruxundefined
          Phaedrux Moderator
          last edited by

          Fair enough. At least there's a method to your madness. ☺

          Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

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          • Vetiundefined
            Veti
            last edited by

            what about z steppers with integrated lead screw?
            dont know the length you need
            https://e3d-online.com/motors-leadscrew-motor-with-pom-nut

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            • dc42undefined
              dc42 administrators
              last edited by

              @puterpro said in Upgrading CR-10S Steppers & PS to 24v Suggested Z replacement:

              So I'm about to replace all the steppers on my CR-10S with some upgraded motors.
              I'm using three 17hs19-2004s1, but need some advice on replacing current current Z motors.
              The new X,Y, &E are: https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-bipolar-59ncm-84ozin-2a-42x48mm-4wires-w-1m-cable-and-connector-17hs19-2004s1.html

              The rated current of those motors is a little high for the Maestro, but not impossibly high. With fan cooling of the Maestro, you can run them at 1.2A which is 60% of rated current. The 17hs19-1684s1 might have been a better choice.

              Why are you concerned about the existing Z motors - are they noisy at idle, or something else?

              Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
              Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
              http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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              • PuterProundefined
                PuterPro
                last edited by

                @zapta - Interesting about the dual voltage on the bed, never ran into that one, I'll have to look at it. Thx!

                @Phaedrux - You always have such helpful ideas! Fans - I forgot that Wiki entry. I'll puzzle it out, thx!
                For the Z axis, I didn't have all the numbers, so I wasn't sure of configuring the Z motors. @genghisnico13 helped me with that. I'll probably stick with the stock for now. Oh - I have the madness, not positive about the method part, mostly fake it. 😜

                @genghisnico13 - THANK YOU! I've been looking for that for months! That's good info on the voltages too. I'll look at the 24v to the bed thing later this week and report back (should be able to just ohm it out ...)
                I planned on starting at 24.5v and then inch it up, checking things, nice to have a guide. I'll be sure to post back.

                @Veti - If I end up replacing them I'll follow that up. For now I suspect the OEM's will be OK once I do a bit of tuning, thx for the link!

                @dc42 - I considered the 17hs19-1684s1, but down the road I expect to build a bigger machine so I figured running the 2004S1's detuned a bit would work, then I could steal them for the new machine.

                I'll setup the current to:
                M906 X1200 Y1200 Z700 E900 U700.00 I30
                Think that will be a safe starting point? Would detuning down to 1.1A until I get the active cooling box done help, or will that starve those beasts? (I'm using your Maestro box currently)

                Push comes to shove I can return the 2004S1 and get the 1684s1's instead (out of stock though ...)

                Thanks for the heads up on the cooling - I did a remix of a dual fan box here:
                https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3520236

                I setup a channeled airflow on the drivers. I'm still tweaking the small airflow holes along the front and right side. Take a peek and let me know what you think ... Thx!

                Existing steppers - didn't have the resistance & inductance values (do now), was concerned about the config for them at the higher voltage. I'll have to see how they behave with the 24v supply.

                Thanks, as always.

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                • PuterProundefined
                  PuterPro
                  last edited by

                  @dc42 - PING! Sorry to be a pest but I'm hang-fire on installing these steppers until you tell me if I should return them and get the 17hs19-1684s1 ? They're much more expensive, and if the 17hs19-2004s1 will work running at a lower current in the box I linked in my reply to you (above)... Thx!

                  @zapta - Looked into the bed setup today on the CR-10S, I see what people are talking about on there being 4 copper pads. But visual inspection and checking with my bench DVM reads it out at .64Ω which means it's 12v. Yes, you can run it on 24v, it's just a heater, but the thing would pull down the 24v supply a bunch, they run higher resistance on the 24v rated beds. I'll stick with my dedicated 12v supply, it's a spare anyway.

                  Oh - those second set of pads? They are connected to the same heater, I'm planning on upgrading the wires to silicon covered 12 AWG so I'll use all four pads, they're just in parallel. Would have been nice if they were a second heater. ☹

                  dc42undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                  • dc42undefined
                    dc42 administrators @PuterPro
                    last edited by

                    @puterpro said in Upgrading CR-10S Steppers & PS to 24v Suggested Z replacement:

                    @dc42 - PING! Sorry to be a pest but I'm hang-fire on installing these steppers until you tell me if I should return them and get the 17hs19-1684s1 ? They're much more expensive, and if the 17hs19-2004s1 will work running at a lower current in the box I linked in my reply to you (above)... Thx!

                    I see that StepperOnline is currently offering the 2004 at 18% discount, which is why it costs less than the 1684.

                    If you intend to stay with the Duet Maestro then the -1684 is a safer choice, because you will be able to run it closer to its rated current. For the Duet WiFi/Ethernet, the -2004 would be a better choice. But I used to run the -1684 at 800mA, which is less than half its rated current. By the same token, the -2004 may be work reasonably well at 1A, which is no problem for the Maestro.

                    Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                    Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                    http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

                    PuterProundefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                    • PuterProundefined
                      PuterPro @dc42
                      last edited by PuterPro

                      @dc42 - Thanks! Makes sense. I'll try them at 1 amp. I'll probably buy a Duet Wi-Fi (or whatever secret thing you're currently working on now ...) when I build my CoreXY and move the motors there.

                      Did you peek at the case I uploaded to Thingiverse?

                      dc42undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                      • dc42undefined
                        dc42 administrators @PuterPro
                        last edited by

                        @puterpro said in Upgrading CR-10S Steppers & PS to 24v Suggested Z replacement:

                        Did you peek at the case I uploaded to Thingiverse?

                        Yes I did. I am a little concerned that at the end near the anged fan, it looks to me that there isn't a good path for air flowing underneath the PCB to cool the drivers. Shouldn't the fan slot be at the bottom, not the top?

                        Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                        Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                        http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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                        • PuterProundefined
                          PuterPro
                          last edited by

                          There's a slot above and below, kind of hard to see on the STL viewer. If you hit "Thingiview" at the top and rotate it so see the front you can see the mounting post through the bottom hole.

                          I just printed the new revision (posted late yesterday) last night, came out much better than original.

                          I agree the slot on the bottom should be a bit larger, the bulk of the air from the front angled fan should go under the board's drivers, the rear fan should handle the lesser flow across the board from the side vents.

                          I'll edit the divider to bias it that way, thanks for confirming what I was already thinking. Going to mount a fan today and check the flow.

                          dc42undefined 1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
                          • dc42undefined
                            dc42 administrators @PuterPro
                            last edited by

                            @puterpro said in Upgrading CR-10S Steppers & PS to 24v Suggested Z replacement:

                            There's a slot above and below, kind of hard to see on the STL viewer. If you hit "Thingiview" at the top and rotate it so see the front you can see the mounting post through the bottom hole.

                            I see it now.

                            Duet WiFi hardware designer and firmware engineer
                            Please do not ask me for Duet support via PM or email, use the forum
                            http://www.escher3d.com, https://miscsolutions.wordpress.com

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