@russ-gries I dont know if this is the best way to do it, but assuming you are going to use a stepper motor you could maybe configure it as an extruder so it uses relative movement by default and if you set your steps/mm to 360°/(200stesp/rev motor) *16microstepping = 8.889 you would have an "Extruder"=Rotating Head that can be commanded to move 30° clockwise by sending G1 E30.
You would have to align it somehow before turning that stepper and make that your initial angle.

BTW I saw your video a while back, good work, I guess this is where all the cool kids hang.

You should update the firmware, this is something that happens with the maestro in StealthChop mode, the latest FW implements a hybrid approach, switching to spreadcycle at higher speeds.

Alternatively if you need stealthchop in your extruder you could try following the recommendations here.
It happened to me once operating only in stealthChop in the extruder also, will see if the recommendations are enough to avoid this ever happening again.

I would like this feature too, measuring extrusion at different speeds for non-linear extrusion takes most of my tuning time.

I don't have a panel due, but I imagine you could execute a macro that has M564 H0. this allows movement before homing.

I am using it to set Nozzle and bed temperatures, Extruder steps/mm, filament Flow/Diameter, Retraction and Non-linear Extrusion, so I have a config per roll that gets updated when initial calibrations are performed.
Since I didn't like the flexibility of cura materials (at least from a while ago) now I manage all material parameters with config Files in the Duet.

What slicer did you use to generate the Gcode? The specified commands seem to be specific to Makerbot printers and not supported(or needed) by the Duet.
if you are using Cura, go to Preferences, Printers, Machine Settings and make sure the G-code flavor selected is RepRap, not Makerbot. if you are using other slicer look for a similar option.

@puterpro said in Can't change current for new stepper:

M906 X1000.00 Y1000 Z700 E1000 U700.00 I30

I doubt this would be the problem but is it OK to put non integer numbers here? maybe delete the 2 ".00".

@phaedrux Because the limit for the maestro is 28V and the factory motors are high inductance, to the point that the chopper frequency is still in the audible range even at the max voltage.

I measured my Z motors on my CR-10s:
Resistance: 9.6Ohm
Inductance: 7.6mHy@1kHz (frequency used in datasheets)
Since I was keeping my 12V PSU for the bed (I haven't checked if it can be wired for 24V, but it has 4 pads) I only supply 27.4V to the board and everything else is 12V powered (at 27.5-.6V the maestro doesn't let you move the steppers).
edit: let us know how the swap works out, I would love to be able to use spreadcycle in silence.

@vacalos regular UTP, ethernet cable, it would probably be best to cut one of the short ones made to connect to the devices because as far as I know they are made with stranded wire, so it's more flexible. I don't know how durable they are in a constantly moving printer.

I'm also interested, I am pretty fast at making the measurements and I like the results and the graphs but it takes a while to make them manually, I would love to have them automated or at least not manual.

@aimrabbit No, they just lower the voltage to be measured by the microcontroller. if you get 24v in DWC(Web) of M122 without the PanelDue connected then there is no need to do what I told you.

@magnusjen Interesting I would like to see what @dc42 has to say about it, but if I am not mistaken that doesn't look good at all.

Perhaps you could measure the voltage in the following points, one (or both) are used to measure Vin and you should see close to Vin/11.
The pictures may not match your board exactly.

I don't know which side is GND.

You could measure Resistors 80,81 or 15,16 (I'm not sure which pair is used to measure) that are near the always on fans connectors and 5vEnable jumper on the side of the expansion header. There should be 2 of 4.7kOhm and 2 of 47kOhm.
Although as far as I know (could be wrong) not many things are affected considerably by having a wrong input voltage reading (power loss range, heater power voltage compensation,etc) so I wouldn't consider it a big deal, but if it is a resistor it would be easy to fix.
edit: added pictures
you should see Vin/11 more of less.

same here, I don't know which side is GND so you will see 0 in one of the points.

edit2: I took the pictures from the internet so they may not match your board exactly, but it should be similar.

since 12.3/8.5 = 1.44 and 24/16.5 = 1.45 are the same ratio, it is possible that there is something wrong with the resistors of the divider that measures Vin.