Horrible print results.Help needed?
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Minimum layer tone can have a negative impact as well if there isn't adequate part cooling because it slows down so much that the nozzle is just hanging around keeping things hot with not enough fan to cool it of. 5-10 seconds is a good setting. And min speed or 10-15mm/s. Then get some part cooling in there.
Another way to force some layer cooling in there is along the lines of printing more than one of the small parts. You can add a simple cylinder a way away from the part. That way it has to travel over to the cylinder every layer giving the main part a chance to cool. Especially useful with models that have tall skinny sections at the top.
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Hi,
I suggest you stick to printing PLA test cubes until you have the basic values in your firmware and slicer working well.
Then you can try other test objects aimed at testing stringing, bridging, etc.
Don't try to do too much at once.
I have tried several brands of PLA and I have found that 190 works best for me. But my 190 might be different than your 190 depending on how accurate our respective temp sensors are.
My hotend is a stock E3D v6 being fed filament by a Zesty Nimble. I highly recommend the Nimble.
And for PLA I run my bed at 60.
Just out of curiosity why the 0.3 nozzle?
Thanks.
Frederick
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I started with one on my original printer and it worked really well for me so I continued using it.I have a few volcano set ups coming in the mail and about 15 nozzles in varying sizes from .6 up to 1.20 so I will try that out once I get the printer working as it should.I will start testing temps with the test cubes next.I will keep this thread updated and I will be back with retraction and jerk settings questions.
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Here are a few more pictures of some of my prints.I am currently printing these with the same settings as before but at 185 degrees.
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That's not too bad really. Maybe a little bit of over extrusion still. Otherwise it's much cleaner.
Are you happier with the results?
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are you sure that you have a semitec thermistor on your hotend?
185 for pla+ seems a bit low.
did you correct the m305 entry?
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I posted the config above and it is set for the Semitec. I also had adjusted the flow to 95 percent for the last set of prints pictured. I can drop that down to 90if that would help?
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@siblues said in Horrible print results.Help needed?:
I posted the config above and it is set for the Semitec. I
and i answered that your config was incorrect for a semitec. that is why i asked if you have corrected it as otherwise that would give you wildly inaccurate numbers.
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I haven't changed that line since I received two responses with different answers.I was wondering does the print look like it is being printed too hot too cold or what does it look like is happening aside from the M305 line not being changed?
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you will be printing at the wrong temperature.
go to https://configurator.reprapfirmware.org/Heaters
select semitec and you will see that it generates a line withn the c value set. -
I understand that Veti.I am asking what does it look like is happening with the print?I mean to say if you just look at the print does it look over extruded or printed too hot or too cold.I don't have enough experience to just look at a print and know if any of those things are happening.I will change the line and I will be back in here tonight with results.I have 6 more semitecs in the mail to make sure I don't have a bad one.
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You think you are printing at 185 but you are actually printing at 205. That is a 20 degree difference.
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It looks too hot and or over extruded. Fixing the thermistor values may fix both.
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@siblues said in Horrible print results.Help needed?:
I can do the retraction test but the temp tower I can not figure out how to adjust the temps in Cura to work.I am new to all of this so I am still trying to learn even the basic stuff at the moment.
I just want to address this one - The temp towers in Cura are a bit tricky but REALLY worth the effort. What you have to do is this:
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Go to Thingiverse and open the Customizer on the model @Veti linked. Create your model (suggestions below). Save the model (Publish) don't make it public unless you want to.
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Load the model into Cura, setup the settings you want with the Default Temp set to the HOTTEST you'll go (say 220° for PLA). Be sure the two Initial temps MATCHES the default temp. Final temp should be the lowest the tower will be doing.
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Slice the model and go to Preview. Slide the layers slider all the way down then go up until it reaches the first temp switch point, Write down the layer number. Keep going up, writing the layer numbers at each switch point.
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Now go to the top menu choose Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code. Then Add a Script.
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What you want is ChangeAtZ. It will have Trigger - Change that to LAYER No. and put the first layer change you wrote down (say 35). Go down and Check the box Change Extruder 1 Temp and put the first step DOWN that you need (like 215° if it's changing by 5° increments). Leave the rest of the settings alone.
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Add a Script again and repeat step 4 for the next change point you noted (say layer 70) and change temp down to 210°. Repeat until the you have all the changes down to say 180°.
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SLICE AGAIN then save your G-Code. ALSO go to the File -> Save and save it as a Cura project (see below)
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Print away.
NOTE WELL: CURA REMEMBERS THOSE SETTINGS EVEN IF YOU CLOSE THE PROGRAM!!!!
YOU NEED TO REMEMBER TO GO INTO IT AGAIN AND REMOVE THE CHANGEATZ SCRIPTS OR YOU'LL GO NUTS WONDERING WHY YOUR FUTURE PRINTS GO SCREWY ON YOU!!!!!Ask me how I know ...
It's gotten me more than once, just last week it got me again, I was going CRAZY at a model not printing right and found Cura was dropping the temp every 35 layers because i forgot I did a Temp Tower! I felt SO stupid.One way to avoid all this work next time (and there WILL be a next time) is to SAVE the print, not just as a G-Code, but as a Cura PROJECT. Then you go in immediately and delete the ChangeAtZ commands while you remember it.
Temp towers will really help you in dialing in your temps, which appears to be what you're battling.
I run one every time I get a new type of filament. Write the settings on the reel. Some say they do it for every reel as it changes a bit, but that's nuts for most good filament. The change will be minor.
However, I find COLOR matters! Black eSun PLA will not print the same temps as Aqua eSun PLA. Do a tower for each type of filament, it's worth the work.The tower I like is the same one @Veti linked. You use the Customizer to create the exact range you need.
Generally I start my tests at 10° over the top temp recommended by the filament maker and take it down to 5° under (don't go too low you'll start grinding in the extruder), go down 5° steps. Be sure to slice at the speed you expect to use for real prints.
Once you get the temp basic range that's best for your machine you can try another tower with 2 degree steps to really get the best spot (if you're OCD like me ... LOL!)
Just File -> Open the project file (.3mf) in Cura and change the starting temp & temps for each step, then re-slice. (The numbers will be wrong on the print, but just use your head, easier than redoing the Thingiverse tower). I assume you can subtract by twos ...
It's a bit of a pain, but once you have done a few you'll have a better handle on what temp you should actually use for that brand & type of filament. Just don't forget to remove those changeatZ commands!
Have fun! You may want to print this as a guide as you go. Like most things, 1st time is the hardest.
BTW, a general tip - stop trying to go fast. Seriously.
This is a hobby that requires patience. If you slice at 70mm/s then slice at 40mm/s you'll find it's not that different, but the quality sure will be. Speed kills in this hobby. Printing twice because you pushed the speed is dumb, be patient, you'll get much better results. As you get better and you dial in the machine you can sneak up but in general, slow and steady saves the print.
Good luck!
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