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Tight Bowden tube for feeding filament

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  • undefined
    Surgikill
    last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 05:11

    So I have a CoreXY printer and I use a filament dry box. I run some 1.75mm bowden tube from the dry box to the print head. It's a direct drive extruder, so it's only pulling the filament through. The issue I have is that there is some serious resistance at the print head due to the friction from the bowden tube because of it's extreme length (over 1 meter). I've tried to use a larger diameter tube, but then I can't feed the filament all the way through due to it binding. Is there a better way to go about feeding my filament from the dry box to the print head? This is causing issue with a lot of prints across a wide range of materials.

    undefined 1 Reply Last reply 7 Jun 2019, 05:25 Reply Quote 0
    • undefined
      Veti
      last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 05:25

      what make is the bowden tube?
      have you tried the capricorn low friction tube?
      https://www.captubes.com/shop/#!/1-Meter-XS-Low-Friction-1-75mm-Bowden-Tubing/p/82190682/category=23214267

      1 Reply Last reply Reply Quote 0
      • undefined
        Phaedrux Moderator @Surgikill
        last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 05:25

        @surgikill said in Tight Bowden tube for feeding filament:

        I've tried to use a larger diameter tube, but then I can't feed the filament all the way through due to it binding.

        Is that with flexibles only? I recently switched from 2mm ID PTFE tube to 3mm ID PTFE tube for my filament tube (I have direct drive as well) because some of the more textured filaments would have a lot of resistance and some of the more brittle filaments would snap entirely. The 3mm ID tube seems to have solved it. But I've never been able to push a flexible filament all the way through it. It's close to 1 meter as well. For flexibles I had to just hang the roll above the printer.

        Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

        undefined 1 Reply Last reply 7 Jun 2019, 13:44 Reply Quote 0
        • undefined
          Surgikill @Phaedrux
          last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 13:44

          @phaedrux Flexible and regular filaments like PETG and PLA. The diameter of my large tube is 4.25mm (I got it for free)

          @Veti I have the capricorn tube and it's even worse because it's such a tight diameter.

          undefined 1 Reply Last reply 7 Jun 2019, 14:09 Reply Quote 0
          • undefined
            deckingman @Surgikill
            last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 14:09

            @surgikill Does it actually need to go through a tube from the dry box to the print head? I appreciate that it might pick up some moisture transiting between the two but while you are printing it won't be "out in the open" all that long I'd have thought, and there is no guarantee that the tube will keep it dry - unless that too is heated I guess. Just a thought.....

            Ian
            https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/
            https://www.youtube.com/@deckingman

            undefined 1 Reply Last reply 7 Jun 2019, 16:27 Reply Quote 1
            • undefined
              Surgikill @deckingman
              last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 16:27

              @deckingman It's more for routing it. I have an entire cable bundle that goes to the head, and the dry box is on the floor next to the printer (big dry box and printer). The bowden tube also acts as rigid reinforcement for the cable bundle. I could try elevating the dry box and just moving the filament direct to the print head with a few inches on each end so it doesn't pinch.

              undefined 1 Reply Last reply 7 Jun 2019, 17:15 Reply Quote 0
              • undefined
                deckingman @Surgikill
                last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 17:15

                @surgikill said in Tight Bowden tube for feeding filament:

                @deckingman It's more for routing it. I have an entire cable bundle that goes to the head, and the dry box is on the floor next to the printer (big dry box and printer). The bowden tube also acts as rigid reinforcement for the cable bundle. I could try elevating the dry box and just moving the filament direct to the print head with a few inches on each end so it doesn't pinch.

                Yes, I know all about cable bundles. I have 5 extruders mounted on a second gantry above the print head, so that's 20 conductors without all the fans, heater, sensor, probe etc. ☺ Have you tried any really big tubing like garden hose for example? Difficult to imagine how filament could bind inside it but it could be PITA to thread it through if it isn't a straight path.

                Ian
                https://somei3deas.wordpress.com/
                https://www.youtube.com/@deckingman

                undefined 1 Reply Last reply 7 Jun 2019, 18:38 Reply Quote 0
                • undefined
                  Surgikill @deckingman
                  last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 18:38

                  @deckingman I just elevated the dry box on a table and stuck a short piece of 2mm bowden on the dry box and another on the hot end. It seems to be working okay so far.

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                  • undefined
                    Phaedrux Moderator
                    last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 20:20

                    Did that solve your problem you were having with TPU?

                    Z-Bot CoreXY Build | Thingiverse Profile

                    undefined 1 Reply Last reply 7 Jun 2019, 20:47 Reply Quote 0
                    • undefined
                      Surgikill @Phaedrux
                      last edited by 7 Jun 2019, 20:47

                      @phaedrux Haven't checked TPU yet. PETG is printing better. I'll let you know in a little bit. For some reason my printer decided to ram all axes in the positive direction so my whole gantry crashed hard (luckily it seems okay) and my bed as well, but my z leadscrew couplers are completely destroyed.

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