Duet 2 Wifi with SE300



  • Hey gang, so I just upgraded my Rostock Max to a Duet2 Wifi + SE300 hot end. I have most everything working correctly it seems minus my extruder, which I'm not overly concerned about yet, and the hot end. When I fire up the hot end it immediately skyrockets in temperature until my it auto-shuts down. Even if I put it at 100C it will do the same. I just went through the auto-tune, which also errors out. Anyone have any ideas or can share the settings I should use for the SE300 hot end through configurator? Any help is MUCH appreciated!

    Results of Auto-Tune:

    11/18/2019, 8:01:55 PM Warning: Auto tune of heater 1 failed due to bad curve fit (A=3742.7, C=144.7, D=4.7)
    11/18/2019, 7:59:40 PM Auto tune phase 3, peak temperature was 329.5
    11/18/2019, 7:59:29 PM Auto tune phase 2, heater off
    11/18/2019, 7:59:12 PM Auto tune phase 1, heater on
    11/18/2019, 7:59:06 PM M303 H1 S240
    Auto tuning heater 1 using target temperature 240.0°C and PWM 1.00 - do not leave printer unattended



  • I have since changed the PID to 25% and located and selected the e3d thermistor in the configurator, still no change to the outcome and cant find any info on recommended se300 settings.


  • administrators

    Is your printer still running from 12V, or have you upgraded it to 24V? It looks like the heater is way overpowered.



  • It is a 24v power supply, which I thought was fine per the wiring diagram sheet (12-25v input). Please excuse my ignorance, your help is greatly appreciated. Does this mean that I would need to replace it with a 12v power supply?



  • I should also point out that the heated bed heats up normally, and seems to be just fine. It is only the hot end that is having a problem.



  • Well you would either have to change to a 12v PSU or upgrade whatever 12v parts you have to 24v.
    This would typically be the heater cartridge and fans



  • Exactly what I needed to know, thanks a bunch. I have purchased two genuine e3dv6's throughout my time and they both accepted 12v or 24v. When I saw that e3d designed the hot end for the se300 I just assumed it too would be the same. It does indeed look like the heater cartridge that comes with the se300 is 12v only, which would explain my problem here.

    I THINK that my bed is 12v or 24v, but I will verify when I get home. Other than the duet wifi + SE300 (which includes fans) & whip, everything else on my printer is the same, and has been running off of the 24v supply.

    If my bed can pull enough power to heat to sufficient temps, I would think I shouldn't have to worry about replacing any additional components to power off of 12v instead. Does this sound right?



  • Uhm, are you sure the same heater can accept 12v and 24v; and not that its just possible to order them with 12v or 24v? Such a heater cartridge would have to have three terminals somehow.

    Some beds are dual voltage, but would need to be rewired to change from 12v to 24v, typically a solder bridge or jumper wire.

    Any 12v fans would have to be replaced or powered off a 12v source or they'll be short lived.



  • Regarding the hotends - It is quite possible I got that incorrect, and just got lucky when I ordered them in the past. Thanks for the tip about switching the wiring around on the bed if it is indeed dual voltage. I will check it out when I get home and see what I am working with, but I think it may be this one, which is designed for 12v, but says you can just limit the PWM signal at 24v to keep things in check.

    https://www.seemecnc.com/products/rev8-onyx-heated-bed-revision-8-discontinued-eol?_pos=4&_sid=43a9540af&_ss=r

    I would suspect that if it is not safe practice, that they wouldn't mention it on the product page, but if it's not for whatever reason I would appreciate a heads up. You guys rock, thanks for the help!



  • You can limit the PWM duty cycle to use a 12v heater with a 24v supply; however its only the firmware keeping them in check, a thermal fuse is highly recommended.

    Review the P parameter for M303
    https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Gcode#Section_M303_Run_heater_tuning



  • So it turns out my bed is indeed a 24v - I went ahead and converted an old xbox PSU to a 12v supply and hooked it up. Everything is now functioning properly with the inconvenience of my bed heating rather slowly. It still reaches and maintains 60-70C which is plenty considering I almost exclusively print with PETG. The trade-off of the noise from my 24v to the complete silence of my 12v is worth it alone IMHO. I may look at replacing my bed later on down the line, but foresee this being suitable for the near future. Thanks to everyone for your help, greatly appreciated.


Log in to reply