mellow nf crazy hotend
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@smece said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
I used e3d X nozzle for this test, first time I tried X nozzle, they are support to have some polyfobic coating that makes plastic not stick to them ... well ..
I am running an E3D NozzleX in my v6 heaterblock, mainly because crashing a brass nozzle into something tends to deform the nozzle enough to throw off the alignment of the dual nozzles on the Chimera. And although these are quite pricey when compared to a brass nozzle, they are still a fairly cheap way to ensure that things will keep on working the same for a reasonable amount of time.
So far I am happy. PETG stringing makes little to no mess, have not yet seen those dreaded black blobs in a print that occur when the nozzle picks up stringing and drops it on the print when buildup has passed a critical amount. Whatever sticks to the nozzle is easy to remove.
Regarding cheap clones of whatever: you may get less than what you pay for, but you will never get more. Accurate machining and good quality base materials are often not required to make parts perform well initially, but accurate machining keeps parts performing well day in, day out. Compare a Papst fan with Chinesium. Day 1 both work well. Day 100 the Chinesium fan makes a lot of noise or stops working, the Papst keeps on humming like it did on day 1.
Frustration continues after the joy of saving a few bucks is long forgotten. In the end buying decent quality stuff saves money overall. Higher initial expense, but less money spent on failures and replacements, higher resale value, less headaches.
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@SliceEngineering said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
We're hopping into the conversation a little late
Better late than never. Thanks for jumping in!!
Generally, if users are having jamming issues with the Mosquito
After my experience with a clone (very highly reviewed clone !! and the build quality is surprising, I'm sure you had one to look at
) I'd say that most of the "users" complaining don't have original when printing PLA it can be quickly remedied by adjusting retraction and cooling fan settings.
Can you share the max retraction length, retraction speed settings please, I'm quite interested to know how those values on original mosquito compare to other all-metal hotends I have (hexagon, 1730, e3d-v6, d3d-titanaero, microswiss..) .. So far the hexagon can survive the most (almost 3mm) while others, depending on the material, won't go over 1mm
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I had big problems with printing PLA with my Mosquito and experienced multiple jams.
In the end, I printed an adapter that let me mount a 30mm fan and the extra cooling cured all my problems. In retrospect, this could have been caused by the fact that my mount fits fairly closely behind the hot end and was probably reducing the air flow. Now, with the larger fan, the fact that the mount is just behind the hot end leads to the cooling air being reflected down onto the print, which is far from ideal for some filaments. So, my next change will be rotating the hot end by 90 degrees so that the exhaust air is not impeded by the mount. This may let me go back to the original 25mm fan, but to be honest, the 30mm fan is quieter and the adapter lets me point the intake of the 30mm fan slightly upwards to avoid the intake turbulence from also cooling the print and print bed.
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@smece hopefully most have not had these issues with the real Mosquito. But if they have, we are certainly here to support our customers and will provide assistance with troubleshooting, or replacement hotends if that was required. Part of the cost of a legitimate product is paying the customer/technical support staff to provide lifetime support after the sale. The cloners don't have those costs.
Retraction length varies based on filament type and printing speed, but our general guidance for direct-drive extruders paired with the Mosquito is to set retraction to the same distance as the diameter of the nozzle you are printing with.
Ex: when printing with a 0.4 mm nozzle, set the retraction distance to 0.4 mm in your slicer.
For Bowden setups, the length of the Bowden tube heavily influences necessary retraction lengths and will require some tuning. We recommend halving the retraction setting used with your previous hotend (before Mosquito installation) and tuning from there.
Those lower retraction distances are the result of a well-defined melt zone with a sharp transition from solid to liquid plastic. For longer/larger print jobs this actually helps to reduce the time of the print substantially.
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@grizewald thank you for sharing your experience. Blocked airflow can certainly reduce the effectiveness of the fan. We would recommend keeping any airflow path, whether for hotend cooling or part cooling, as clear as possible from beginning to end. Turning the hotend 90 degrees sounds like it may resolve the issue as well. If you have specific questions about the way to optimize your setup, please feel free to reach out to us at info@sliceengineering.com, or speak with one of our support agents on our website.
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I'm late to this hotend hating game, but I thought I'd share a few counterpoints about the E3D V6.
Sure, it's an older design and it's not as compact as other hotends, but it's reliable and consistent!
The mounting, being circular and hard to fix, is annoying, but not a deal breaker. The way I mount it is to put it into a close-fit 16 mm hole, and use a pointed set screw on the front to jam it in the hole. It doesn't rotate or move in any way.
Changing nozzles is easy, but when you do so, also give a bit of a tighten to the heatbreak by giving a tiny little turn of the wrench with the nozzle already tight in the hotblock, just to ensure the heatbreak won't come loose.
Printing slow and detailed? Don't even try to tell me you can't do it with an E3D V6 -- that's what I do all day. Perhaps, if you're having trouble with slow high-detailed parts, dial down your temperatures. Also, make sure the rest of your machine can handle it.
Basically, E3D V6 is still a great go-to hotend. I've thought about trying a mosquito, but this very thread has deterred me from that.
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@bot said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
Basically, E3D V6 is still a great go-to hotend. I've thought about trying a mosquito, but this very thread has deterred me from that.
please don't make the thread about PRC clone deter you from trying original!!! I said multiple times, maybe they visually look similar but when you look at them trough thermal camera there is nothing about them that's similar!! the prc clone just gets hot all the way there's no real heat break there. copper heatsink on the heatbreak moves up/down (no clue what is the proper position of it, should it touch to hot part, should there be 1mm 2mm 3mm distance from heated massive part to the copper heatsink, the tubes look thin, but I compared to original, the original definetely looks thinner, need to use microscope to compare them.. these days... I'll post images from microscope for original and clone.. thermal ones too, side by side .. so you understand why this clone can't be used to determine anything about the original... reason I wrote this post was to deter ppl from getting this clone as while 3x cheaper it does not work
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@smece it was more the comments about the mosquito performance with PLA that deterred me. I mostly use PLA.
*not actually a robot
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@bot said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
@smece it was more the comments about the mosquito performance with PLA that deterred me. I mostly use PLA.
please don't use this thread as any reference to real deal, please check original threads.
while I don't understand why would anyone who prints "mostly PLA" go with full metal hotend I'm 100% sure original mosquito works ok with PLA as there is no way in hell they would make such a mistake and not test most common material. I'm pretty sure most of that talk about "not working this and that" are from the, like me, owners of a clone. now, I don't see a way any full metal hotend can have performance of ptfe lined hotend when it comes to pla, not even e3dv6. PLA lining going all the way to the nozzle is a killer feature for PLA, makes transition zone non existing, ptfe handles temperatures easy. only thing better than ptfe lined hotends here is ptfe enforced with peek like arcol did with his v3.0 (v4.0 he has the steel heat break), that thing was killer hotend for PLA
.. and it was introduced cca 10 years ago (arhi can tell you more he worked with arcol on that hotend, I didn't know them back then) -
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@bot said in mellow nf crazy hotend:
@smece it was more the comments about the mosquito performance with PLA that deterred me. I mostly use PLA.
I'll just re-quote what Slice Engineering themselves posted above - quote............
"We're hopping into the conversation a little late, but hopefully, we can shed some light on the PLA printing issue raised by @wesc. Despite the Mosquito being a high-temperature hotend, it can most definitely print PLA. In fact PLA is the second most common filament we print internally, after PA.
Generally, if users are having jamming issues with the Mosquito when printing PLA it can be quickly remedied by adjusting retraction and cooling fan settings. If you hear of anyone having issues when printing PLA, please have them reach out to us. We're here to help solve problems."
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@smece I disagree with your stance on metal hotends and PLA. However, I don't use a long bowden tube and only need 0.4 mm retraction, so I guess it's a moot point.
I prefer the V6 over the lite because if I do want to print higher temps, I can. I just mostly print PLA.
I guess I will not write off the mosquito just yet.
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I can vouch for the genuine Mosquito. It works well with PLA, just make sure you match your retract distance to your nozzle size (eg. 0.4mm nozzle, with 0.4mm retraction). I would also be tempted to restrict retractions with large nozzles to no more than 1mm. These retraction settings are assuming you are using direct extruders.
I have both genuine and NF Crazy cloned hot ends, and have found the NF Crazy is not as good as the genuine but seem to handle similar print settings to the Mosquito. One issue I have found is that if you get a blockage and heat the heatbreak a little on an NF Crazy, the tube slides loosely inside the threaded piece, altering it's position making it unusable. I recommend anyone with an NF Crazy try a genuine Mosquito heatbreak.
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I found both are sensitive to retraction settings, perhaps a little more than a genuine E3D with all-metal heatbreak.
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Hi Everyone!
I'm new here, my name is Mike
I've bought Mellow All Metal NF-Crazy Plus Hotend a few months ago - it is copper heater block version.
then I realised myself that lot of Ypeople got problem with this mosquito clone, so I designed my own body to rise efficiency of heat brake - so Ive made a laminar flow funnel for mellow radiator and now I can use mosquito type mini fan and still can print PLA, then I designed another laminar flow body so now I can mount cheap chinese fan 30x30x10 and the performance of this setup is so good that I can rise PLA temp on hotend as high as 250 C and print it as slow as i need - I have made a test so I rised temp to 240 degrees of celsius and left it on idle for 15minutes without printing then I send command to extrude this melted PLA and .... all was ok - no problem with clogging - I have repeated this test many times and never got problem with extruding PLA even with so HIGH temp setting as 240 - 250 C at the heater block.
My printer is anycybic i3 Mega 8bit board with silent steppers no mods heavy mods - and now with this hotend i can print with speed 180 mm/s easy.
I've posted this info because I thought that will have a real problem with this mosquito clone regarding all issues found here and there on 3D printing forums so I didn't try to use it as it was designed and made my own setup to check if it is really as bad as people say - and cannot confirm it - my setup works REALLY GOOD, if You want me to send some pictures or record video how it stands high temp with PLA without any problem just let me know. -
@zajkosrc51 some pictures or even some files of your design would be good
