Duet Maestro 2 stops mid print
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@massynrt I was discussing with @dc42 if we wanted the board back or not. I suggested that we ask you to remove the reset switch, but he thought it very unlikely that this was causing the problem, and it would be better to check the soldering on the reset pull-up resistor, R84, which is near U2 on the Maestro. However, in looking at this, dc spotted a solder bridge on the pins of the processor. On further investigation, there seems to be quite a few!
List of possible shorts: 26 to 27, 29 to 30, 41 to 42, 49 to 50, 52 to 53, 59 to 60, 61 to 62, 66 to 67
Most notably, pin 60 is Reset, while pin 59 is one of the SD card pins.It is unusual to see shorts that close to the plastic package though, unless the soldering has been reworked by hand, and it might even be a trick of the light. Please can you check whether those pairs look shorted, and if possible get a sharper photo. We find it best to pull the camera away a bit and use digital zoom. For example, this is from my iPhone SE (I know, but I like a phone that fits in my pocket...):
If you have solder wick, you can try removing the solder bridges. Even wiping a fine-tipped, clean soldering iron on the pins, and pulling in the direction away from the chip, might be enough to remove the solder bridge.
Let me know how you get on, and sorry for the inconvenience.
Ian
Bed-slinger - Mini5+ WiFi/1LC | RRP Fisher v1 - D2 WiFi | Polargraph - D2 WiFi | TronXY X5S - 6HC/Roto | CNC router - 6HC | Tractus3D T1250 - D2 Eth
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Even wiping a fine-tipped, clean soldering iron on the pins, and pulling in the direction away from the chip, might be enough to remove the solder bridge.
some good flux makes that easier, solder will follow the heat and pull away the bridges
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Sorry guys. That seem to be only jpg compression or Huawei playing tricks on us. None of those bridges on the cpu. Ill use my dslr to supply with better images. Will do it in the morning..
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Here is an updated image of the CPU..
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@massynrt oh that’s disappointing, thought we were on to something! Though with that many bridges, it would be amazing if it worked at all!
I can also see R84 looks okay, too, but please visually check that.
Okay, back to plan A. Do you want to try desoldering the reset switch? Ideally with hot air rework station, or qwikchip, so the chances of lifting pads is minimised.
Ian
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Sorry for my silly question.. I cant find R84. I looked at the whole pcb and could not find any problems. Even did a good old shock test while it was at operating temp. Does not reset. Almost certain it is not the button or a loose component.
I dont have any fancy tools to remove the.button. Only solder sucker and iron. But this will be last resort only after confirmation of warranty replacement as advised.
I will send you a pm with and alternative solution.
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@massynrt R84 is in the top right of your DSLR picture of the processor.
I think it’s probably a faulty component that builds capacitance, until something triggers it causing the board to reset. Could also be heat related, as it doesn’t happen when board is idle, only when running. Possibly just a faulty processor with the above issues. Really difficult to say!
Ian
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Quick question.. the connectors for the motors are upside down vs the meastro. Thus, i have to redo them.. although the red blue green black is still the same.. .
What is the reason? Do i have to redo, or will it still work?
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Might be something ooznest did with their config. I turning the white clips around.
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@massynrt said in Duet Maestro 2 stops mid print:
Do i have to redo, or will it still work?
it might run in reverse if you swap 1<->4 and 2<->3 but that can be fixed by reversing the config.
as to reason, unclear; are you refering to duet 3 vs duet 2 maestro? in any case to make routing the board easier is the likely answer.
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@massynrt all Duets connect the motor phases the same way; one phase/coil to pins 1 and 2 of the motor driver pins, and the other phase/coil to pins 3 and 4. The labels on the wiring diagrams and on the PCBs have varied somewhat, for a number of reasons, but this order is the one that is implied, and is common to all Duets. It shouldn’t matter is you flip the wires per coil, as it will just change the motor direction, which you can change with M569 S[0/1].
So you shouldn’t need to change the motor wiring when changing from Maestro to Duet Ethernet, but you may need to change the direction in config.g.
Ian
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Thanks for all your help @droftarts. I got the Duet 2 up and running.. Busy with first test print..
2 Observations:
- The prints are definitely slower. With the same config file, Except for the BL Touch config. The rest seems to stay the same from Maestro to Duet 2 .
- The motors are quiter. Alot.. Printer just feels better..
Any idea why??
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@massynrt number 2 is because it’s different stepper drivers, and quieter because of different StealthChop settings. Not sure why it would be slower, though!
Ian
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Spidy sense senses board has been replaced?
Does that mean its too late to suggest trying a stronger pull up between a reset pin and 3.3v?
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Yes we worked out something to get going again.. Must say - I'm impressed with the support.. I know I started off a bit frustrated, but at the end i must admit.. I was wrong.. You guys are amazing.. @dc42 @droftarts Thank you for everything.
I got a test print finished with the new board.. Now to get the printer "perfect".
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they're usually quite amenable indeed!
