Microswiss settings?
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I have a microswiss on a Ender 3 with Duet 3. I run 215C hot end and 60C bed for PLA. Make sure you tighten the nozzle TWICE. Once cold, once hot.
230C is too hot from my experience and will make the nozzle ooze a lot and create stringing.
Print a temp tower to be sure.
Railcore II 300ZL with lots of upgrades (Duet 3 6HC)
Heavily modified Ender 3 Pro (Duet 3 6HC)
Heavily modified Tronxy X5SA-500 Pro with Chimera+ and dual bondtech (Duet 3 6HC)
CR-10S Pro V2 (Duet 3 Mini 5+)
and a bunch of SLA printers.. -
A friend did some extensive testing and PLA from 4043D resin prints good at 190-210, then terrible, then decently at 250-260 again. He prints miniatures with Prusament PLA at the high temps and those yield both a glossy finish and excellent layer adhesion.
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@Thalios
You are right and not.
I had problems with layer attentions at 190-220°C with the stock hotend. So I went up till 230°C against my reflex and the prints where fine there. Anyway, the microswiss is a complete gamechanger here and I need to start from scratch with most of my settings.@oliof 250°C? Wow..... I think that I will test it, just for fun....
Cheers, Chriss
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Funny that...I've never even had an issue with layer adhesion at 200 with PLA. In fact my prints are strong, glossy and defined well. Of all the materials, I would have thought it actually hard to get layer separation with PLA, as it's strong and forgiving to print.
Each to their own, but some of the numbers being mentioned here seem very hot for PLA.
I try to use as cool a temp as possible, but with as little fan as possible too.
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@Corexy said in Microswiss settings?:
Funny that...I've never had an issue with layer adhesion at 200 with PLA.
I had.. and enough from them. Maybe a other problem? I should check the steps for Z. :?
I try to use as cool a temp as possible, but with as little fan as possible too.
Me too, simply for the fact that the printer stand next to me at my desks and teh fan is very loud.
Please stop posting print porn, you make me jealous.
What am I doing wrong with these imgur links, by the way? They used to work when I pasted them on here, but they don't seem to anymore.
The link itself works, I think that you want to add the picture with
(Picture icon)
Cheers, Chriss
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@Chriss said in Microswiss settings?:
@Corexy said in Microswiss settings?:
Funny that...I've never had an issue with layer adhesion at 200 with PLA.
I had.. and enough from them. Maybe a other problem? I should check the steps for Z. :?
I try to use as cool a temp as possible, but with as little fan as possible too.
Me too, simply for the fact that the printer stand next to me at my desks and teh fan is very loud.
Please stop posting print porn, you make me jealous.
What am I doing wrong with these imgur links, by the way? They used to work when I pasted them on here, but they don't seem to anymore.
The link itself works, I think that you want to add the picture with
(Picture icon)
Cheers, Chriss
I did take a long time typing up that advice for you, and when I looked at Oliof's link on metal hotends a lot of what I said was there anyway (wish I read it first before I did all that typing).
There was even mention in that link that excessive retraction (which I'm almost positive you have) will lead to a clicking extruder, which you have described.
Trying to help you here mate, but you can only lead a horse to water and you can't make him drink.
Why not go through those steps one by one and get it going right?
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I really appreciate every input I can get. I understand that it is hard that not all of us have English as there native language and not everything is always communicated.
Back to the "mission":
What I did so far:
I confirmed this morning that the e-steps are OK.
I played a bit with the retraction and I'm at 1,5mm@30mm/s (not my current focus) Btw: The step skipping is gone since the PID auto-tuning.
I play with temperatures between 190 to 220 at the moment.I have some adhesion problems with the current setup right now. I'm more and more convinced that the change of the z-probe to a IR-Probe and the migration to a micro-swiss was not the best decision in my live.
I will fix the relation between the z-probe and be bed (again) before I take any further care of the hotend. 
The learning curve drives me nuts.
Cheers, Chriss
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If using the IR probe with a textured surface, you'll be fighting it all day long. I went with a smooth glass and it solved my issues.
I have the direct drive microswiss kit and it works quite well. Kinda wish I went BL probe instead of IR though..
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@Thalios
I made good experiences with the ir-probe some days ago: https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/17093/weird-headmap-since-ir-probeI have to admit that I had a tough start but it went very well with my PEI sheet. Strange to read your bad experiences.
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@Chriss said in Microswiss settings?:
I really appreciate every input I can get. I understand that it is hard that not all of us have English as there native language and not everything is always communicated.
Back to the "mission":
What I did so far:
I confirmed this morning that the e-steps are OK.
I played a bit with the retraction and I'm at 1,5mm@30mm/s (not my current focus) Btw: The step skipping is gone since the PID auto-tuning.
I play with temperatures between 190 to 220 at the moment.I have some adhesion problems with the current setup right now. I'm more and more convinced that the change of the z-probe to a IR-Probe and the migration to a micro-swiss was not the best decision in my live.
I will fix the relation between the z-probe and be bed (again) before I take any further care of the hotend. The learning curve drives me nuts.
Cheers, Chriss
I'm really wondering what the adhesion issue is all about...are you running the standard Creality thermistor and heater cartridge? Is this CR10 running the standard motherboard or a Duet board?
Unless I'm mistaken, the Z probe sets the first layer height, then the layer heights after that set by Z stepper esteps.
I am definitely NOT the one for programming, but it seems that your temps may be way off. Have you installed your thermistor and heater correctly and are the secured snugly in the heater block?
1.5mm retraction might be a little low for bowden, but 8mm certainly seemed way to high. If it hasn't made a big difference, it suggests the problem is elsewhere.
Also, to reduce stringing with PLA, don't use "Z hop" and set your free movement speed to 120mm/sec. Your machine should handle that easily if the rollers are adjusted correctly.
As PLA will print well at anything from 190-220 degC, I'm thinking there's a major problem with the heating/temp measurement. As you have been working on that area changing the hot end, it might pay to check all the components and connections there for correct installation.
If you've changed to a Duet board, it might pay to check you have entered the right values in your config file for the thermistor and heater cartridge. You'll need someone else to help with that, not my area of expertise sorry.
**And I am sorry, I didn't realize English wasn't your first language and I didn't mean to sound frustrated. I am happy to help if I can.
It can be hard to help sometimes if the person wanting help is jumping from one thing to another...in this hobby you really need to "start at one end" and go step by step. If you skip a step, the problem keeps coming back in one form or another.
I also saw in your other post that you got a v-core kit...mine just arrived yesterday, I haven't had a good look at it yet.
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@Corexy said in Microswiss settings?:
I'm really wondering what the adhesion issue is all about...are you running the standard Creality thermistor and heater cartridge? Is this CR10 running the standard motherboard or a Duet board?
Yes, the stock heater cartridge and the stock thermistor, the mainboard is a duet 2.
Unless I'm mistaken, the Z probe sets the first layer height, then the layer heights after that set by Z stepper esteps.
You are right from my understanding, too.
I was referring to my old problem with the layers which did not stick together. I checked the steps form Z a while ago, but missconfigured steps could lead to "not sticking" layers, don't they?I am definitely NOT the one for programming, but it seems that your temps may be way off. Have you installed your thermistor and heater correctly and are the secured snugly in the heater block?
Well, as good as I could. I the heater is flush with the block and tightened and the thermistor is soaked in thermal paste.
1.5mm retraction might be a little low for bowden, but 8mm certainly seemed way to high. If it hasn't made a big difference, it suggests the problem is elsewhere.
I argree the retraction is a kind of a "last 20% tuning". I feel today like I'm back at the first 10%.
Also, to reduce stringing with PLA, don't use "Z hop" and set your free movement speed to 120mm/sec. Your machine should handle that easily if the rollers are adjusted correctly.
Yes, the z-hop top thingy... I hate it.
That seems to me very much frustrating. I need it sometimes, sometimes not. Maybe the brand.. I do not know.As PLA will print well at anything from 190-220 degC, I'm thinking there's a major problem with the heating/temp measurement. As you have been working on that area changing the hot end, it might pay to check all the components and connections there for correct installation.
I had the same feeling already and I checked the wires as far as I could do it. At the end is it difficult to look though the insulation. The connectors and soldering looks ok. But this is no guarantee that there is noting wrong if things get hot or move.
If you've changed to a Duet board, it might pay to check you have entered the right values in your config file for the thermistor and heater cartridge. You'll need someone else to help with that, not my area of expertise sorry.
Not recently, the setup and parameter worked very well with the BL-Touch and the stock hotend. My problem is that the stock hotend is a bit "longer" than the micro-swiss, at least at my CR10s Pro v2, so I can not revert easily one of the two. So I decided to find the issue and not to giving up by reverting the change.
**And I am sorry, I didn't realize English wasn't your first language and I didn't mean to sound frustrated. I am happy to help if I can.
No no, everything is cool. I know how frustrating it is when you have the feeling that the other end of the communication channel does have every information but do not does the things you asked to do.
I really appreciate any help!It can be hard to help sometimes if the person wanting help is jumping from one thing to another...in this hobby you really need to "start at one end" and go step by step. If you skip a step, the problem keeps coming back in one form or another.
For sure... But I make progress here too and I see other behaviors which moved my "end to work on" a bit away from the original problem.
I also saw in your other post that you got a v-core kit...mine just arrived yesterday, I haven't had a good look at it yet.
Yes, the v-core is next to me. Since a month.... I'm such a fool.... I have the 3Z version but I have forgotten to order a third motor.
I wait since 4 weeks not for the motor and some other tiny bits and pieces. ( This guys are far to slow for me.) I tuned the pid values this morning and the hotend was off during the night, so I can guarantee that the hotend is at room temp:
old: (yesterday)M307 H1 A418.8 C146.3 D3.1 S1.00 V24.0 B0new 1: (first run today)
M307 H1 A461.9 C157.4 D3.1 S1.00 V24.0 B0new2: (second run today)
M307 H1 A461.2 C156.1 D3.1 S1.00 V24.0 B0The bed and the hotend reported 26°C temperature, which is very much like my room temperature. (OK one 26.4 the other one 26.5)
The pid tuning today was done with all fans in the off state.I have to go back to work now. The next steps will be a cube in a "vase mode" to bring back a first layer which sticks to the bed before I start changing anything at retracting etc.
Cheers, Chriss
